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Matterhorn

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Climber3005 04 Aug 2014
Hi all, back to the Matterhorn this year for another bash. Been on her several time in the past 10 years. looking at the web cam historically there seems to be a lot of snow on the ridge all this summer! Any feed back on the conditions this season would be appreciated. Also Hornli hut closed for refurb, anyone know of any Restrictions on camping or bivving?
Cheers
In reply to Climber3005:

I've heard that there is temporary accommodation in place of the Hornli hut.

150 CHF a night I heard.

http://www.hoernlihuette.ch/base_camp.html

"In order to protect the nature, camping and bivouacking is prohibited."
 Kid Spatula 04 Aug 2014
In reply to Climber3005:

150 CHF? For that? Good lord.
 Simon4 04 Aug 2014
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Is it just me, or does it look quite a lot below the Hornli hut site, so not only are you being massively overcharged (and they are trying to prevent biviing), but you are in quite an unfavourable start point as well. In fact it looks as if you can see the hut quite a lot higher in those pictures.

Fortunately I have twice climbed the Matterhorn and have very little desire to do so again.
In reply to Simon4:

It is ...

"At a level of 400 metres beneath the Hörnlihütte, we have constructed a campus able to accommodate 50 mountaineers"
 Simon4 04 Aug 2014
In reply to Kid Spatula:

I just checked the Turtmannhutte prices, even for non Alpine club members, half-board (in a proper hut), is 75 CHF per night, with a reduction to 65 for members.

Nice hut too.
 glaramara 05 Aug 2014
In reply to Climber3005: I saw the Matterhorn today from Zinalrothorn and it is totally plastered. The guardian told me it is the most snow for summer in 60 years (although this could be bullshit of course). It isn't looking good, unless the weather drastically changes. Bad season.
graham F 06 Aug 2014
In reply to glaramara: They're saying the wettest summer since 1930 in Switzerland! Picture here of the Matterhorn yesterday
https://www.facebook.com/frostguidingcourses?ref=br_rs
 Simon4 06 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:

Not just wettest, coldest and with Alps wide dreadful weather - bloody global cooling! That Matterhorn picture is really full Winter conditions.
graham F 06 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4: Just found a picture of the Matterhorn in April for comparison...
https://www.facebook.com/frostguidingcourses
 MG 06 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:

Do you know if it's been climbed much this year? Those "tents", at 150CHF a pop, must be rather empty, I would think.
graham F 06 Aug 2014
In reply to MG:
I don't know anyone who's climbed it this summer. Shouldn't think you'd struggle to get a booking in the tents...Love this bit from the website
"The design of the shelters was inspired by the Matterhorn’s pyramidal shape. " Oh really? Perhaps the architect has never seen a Vango Force 10...
Post edited at 12:59
 MG 06 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:


> "The design of the shelters was inspired by the Matterhorn’s pyramidal shape. " Oh really? Perhaps the architect has never seen a Vango Force 10...

Or the Matterhorn - surely a wig-wam would be the correct "inspired shape"?
 Simon4 06 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:

That mountain is in Winter condition.
RockShock 07 Aug 2014
In reply to Punter S Thompson:

This is amazing. Twice the normal price and even trying to sell this as a 'once in a lifetime' experience. Marketing genius at work!

Ona added value is the lack of snoring of your room companions, though!
Climber3005 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Climber3005:

Thanks all for the replies, been looking at the web cam and as some have said, it looks like a Matterhorn in winter. 3 weeks before we head out and thinking of diverting maybe to chamonix.
 ablackett 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Climber3005:

I would look for somewhere with smaller mountains. We have just come back from Arolla, west Vallais, most things over about 3500m have thick snow, unstable avalanche conditions, big cornices, we had to cancel plans at least 3 times because of conditions. The weatherforecasts were also all over the place, each forecast was different and they changed on an almost daily basis, just another sign that everyhting was unsettled.

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