UKC

Rubicon full traverse l to r

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 llanberis36 09 Aug 2014
What grade is the full l to r traverse at rubicon, starting on the so called warm up.....any of the three levels, and finishing on the porthole at the start of the 7a.

The r to l to finish at debris groove is on peak bouldering, just wondered what the full, other way is

I recall in the early 90's this was in vogue..........
 TonyM 09 Aug 2014
In reply to llanberis36:

Peak District Bouldering gives the high, middle, low traverses - F5+, 6A, 6B+ respectively, either direction. That feels harsh until you have the moves wired ... a lot tougher than grit bouldering grades.
If you take the easiest way for the full traverse you're not going to get much more than a 5+/6A tick.

Rubicon is still a great spot for training your fingers and core and improving footwork. It definitely has its fans.
OP llanberis36 09 Aug 2014
In reply to TonyM:

Thanks for that Tony, I meant going past the end of the three traverses, and continuing all the way along the 7a traverse on the right and finishing at the porthole, at the far right of the wall
 TonyM 09 Aug 2014
In reply to llanberis36:

Oops. Forgot the 7A traverse goes R to L, so thought you meant stopping with hands on the big ledge before the 7A. I don't know what grade that full traverse would get. I've not done the 7A traverse the conventional way, and don't know if it is any harder the wrong way, but that bit would dictate the grade surely, because although long the entry is comparatively a gentle warm-up with rests/shake-outs.
 climber34neil 09 Aug 2014
In reply to llanberis36:

Really depends on which line you take. If you are a strick and link all using the hardest then it would be about 7b+ (font) but that would mean doing the perfect porthole traverse which I think is about 7a+ on its own, that's not using any of the top holds on the porthole. Using the easy way then probably not much more than about 6b/c maybe? I think perfect porthole I to low trav and finish up pockets and crimps used to get route 8a
 Bulls Crack 10 Aug 2014
In reply to TonyM:

5+/6a...........the great British tradition of undergrading is alive and well
 climber34neil 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

You get an extra half grade if the swamp is full due to the danger of leaches

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