/ UKC Fit Club Week 386

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Ally Smith on 10 Aug 2014
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=594182
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf

Psyche video of the week - http://www.redbull.com/es/es/adventure/stories/1331666327303/red-bull-creepers-event-clip Crazy DWS on a bridge in Spain

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

hms – great volume and a 7a+ redpoint – sounds like a successful week to me
Nick Russell – stateside this week? I recall “Sing a mean toon” being a definite step up from “House Burning Down” – good to consolidate at these grades before pushing on to greater things
grubes – has weight loss goals to be achieved through some extra swimming? Beware the hunger cravings post swimming as the body temperature is low due to immersion.
Dandan82 – any chance your elbow issues are related to the long term aim of “strong shoulder”? Here’s an article by Joe le Sage (Sheffield wad/physio) that implies some links in climbers http://climbingphysio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/elbows-introduction.html
Ally Smith – is a “geographically illiterate pillock!”
mattrm – Bad luck with the shoulder injury – have you tried some self-massage with a tennis ball against the wall?
Just Tintin – Awesome effort on the 1000+ backseat dropsies – I could barely manage 4 at a midsummer beach party (there night have been other factors inhibiting my performance though!)
Humperdink – Fast 5km this week? Thanks for the reality check on the chunky leg front.
Joughton – impressive quick ticks in Norway. How’s a week of scary slabs been after a week of steep sport?
Tubb93 – Indoor bouldering grades looking good for your Font 7a aspiration
Goonie – welcome back – impressive volume of training for being a new dad. Don’t over-cook it and end up injuried/kill the psyche.
Tyler – you missed the best conditions at Kilnsey this whole year! I hope the rest & elbow rehab is paying off?
Luke Owens – good lot of volume for stamina training. Keep varying the venue/rock angle to keep it fresh.
Exile - not bad for a week of lurgy
Tyler - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Project recovery is underway! Physio booked for wednesday evening. After sulking away the beginning of the week I've decided to sack off climbing for a bit. Unlike last winter when I was injured I'm going to try and at least get some cardio fitness. With that in mind I've decided to try and do this http://www.rpmrt.org.uk/mary-towneley-loop/?doing_wp_cron=1407682020.4018518924713134765625

At the moment it looks unlikely as until Wednesday I'd only been on a mountain bike a couple of times ever, I've not done any 7 hour plus days for years, my arse is so sore and I just can't see how that can get better and I have to go on holiday between now and 7th Sept.
W: Had a look at the Waterfoot to Clivenger section of the MTL (didn't drop down to Clivenger), all seemed a lot harder than I thought it'd be.
T: Elbow wrecked, maybe mountain biking isn't the best thing for me.
S: Did the Rooley Moor section of the MTL, too many cobbles to be anything other than miserable
S: 20 miles on hilly roads, my saddle soreness wouldn't have coped with any more rough tracks
hms - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally. This week has been pretty productive as well, but I'm now utterly knackered. A strange week as my usual work pattern was all over the place due to an implementation on Saturday.

M - cycle commute then gentle UCR session. ~10 routes in singles, inc working at 7a which I can now do in 2 halves. Just need to link them.
T - Torbryan. Only 1 route was dry - Thread Flintsone. Clipsticked up a rope, 2 TR goes really sorting the seq & clipping then clean 1st lead attempt. Only my 2nd 7b so dead chuffed.
W - felt like I'd been run over by a bus after the previous day's exertions. Cycle commute.
T - TCA to try the next round of the summer accumulator. Got 8 flash, 2 worked, many bonuses. A couple more may go with practice.
F - UCR circuits, ~10, including the hard but steady 6c x 4, a flash of a 7a+ (rather pleased) and a 7b+ in stages. It may go with practice, but need to get the midway rest to work - it is contorted takes a lot of core.
S - cycle commute. TRX 2xcore, 2xupper, 50 pull-ups
S - Redpoint. 14 routes in singles, pretty much all onsights except a 6c+ with weird clipping and a horrid long move from a disappointing undercut which I couldn't get even though I tried it twice. Worth another try when fresher.

May have to take it a little more easy this week - have been feeling SO tired. Think it is 7 or 8 weeks till Kaly, so a light week wouldn't be out of the question would it?
Exile - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for doing fit club again Ally

Aims:

Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.) TICKED SOME OF THIS

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: Half hour run on coast
T: Nothing
W: 40 min run no coast
T: Led Tourist Trap, (E1 5b**,) and Half-life, (E3 5 c**,) at Scuda Point, North Devon. Well chuffed as this was my first E3 onsight and it went well.
F: Nothing
S: 30 min road run
S: Nothing

Away on holiday so not loads in the way of training, but the week made by my first E3 onsight. Hopefully another trip out climbing when we're in Cornwall this coming week.

Weight: 11st 7lb
mattrm - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Exile:

> T: Led Tourist Trap, (E1 5b**,) and Half-life, (E3 5 c**,) at Scuda Point, North Devon. Well chuffed as this was my first E3 onsight and it went well.

Well done mate. Congrats.
JimmyKay - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Right I'm kind of starting to get back into it. Finger is not perfect but I'm going to work it back in and gradually strengthen it. Will have to see how it goes.

M- got to the coniston at 6 walked up Dow and along until swirl how. Pitched the tent for the night.
T- walked up crinkle crags and onto bow fell. Then down into langdale.
W- day in Ambleside as the kit all dried from the rain on Tuesday.
T- walked up the langdale peaks, up to high raise, then down into grasmere.
F- walked up helvellyn, then ran down as we'd left the bags in grasmere. Drove back to Brum.
S- went down the wall. Climbed easilsh stuff for 3 hours. Then did 50 pull-ups on a big campus rung. Then 50 wide pull-ups on jugs. 20, 18, 15 leg raisers in 90o lock off. Then 3x 16 side raisers.
S- flashed all but 2 of the red circuit (v6-7) which I was quite happy with as there were quite a few small holds. 60 pull-ups on the campus rung. Couple of front levers. 420 core movements, 2x2min plank 100 press ups.

No idea how I'm climbing at the moment. Might try and get outdoors some time this week.
Nick Russell on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Exile:
> T: Led... Half-life, (E3 5 c**)

Well done! Looks bold and scary...
Exile - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks
Exile - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks. I found it steady, but I'm ok on slabs. You are making the crux move at a point where the gear that would stop you hitting the floor is three RPs and a poor small wire, but it doesn't feel as scary as it sounds.
IainRUK - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Sorry think I missed last week..

parents over, away for 2 weeks pre and post wedding now a week on Marthas vineyard.. 97 miles all around 6:40-7:40 miles so a nice building week..

m: 13 miles slow longish run in a storm 8:30 pace, scary
t: 20.1 am: 3.1 on the beach NH. Pm: 17 on the roads NH ver hot.. struggled
w: 11.6 miles am: bloston river loop. Pm: jamaica ponds trails
t: 4.25 miles early am boston river loop
f: 15.08 miles 700m ascent am: skit trails. Pm: road and ski trails
s: wedding day, am: 3 miles trail run up ski hills. late am: road and ski trails then pool swim, sauna jacuzzi then muchos beers… great day...
s: day after 6.75 mile road and trail Maine farm loop with G 8:10 pace


m: 10milers woods hole 10 miler 6:58 pace
t: 18.4 miles in 2 runs. am: 6.4 miles steady pm: 12 mile road and trail steady
w: 13 miles 2 runs am: 25 mile bike ride and slow 2.5 miler to ease the legs pm; 10 state forest at 6:42 pace, pm: 0.5 cool down
t: am: south beach loop plus 2.5 mile segment a6 6:40 pace 7:20 overall. Pm: 7.2 around woods hole 7:45 pace
f: 19.21 miles Long run on the vinyard around the forest, 7:25 pace.. Very hot, 1 bar no water..
s: 18 mile bike ride am: 9.8 miles road and trail on the vineyard usual loop 6:47 pace.. Nice run, very warm night
s: 13 miles longish run around west chop then back to edgartown.. Via trails 7:30 pace
mattrm - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - HVS (1/10), E1 (0/6), E2 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st (2lbs loss)

M - Rest
T - 2mi run
W - Yoga
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 8 hours patio
S - Rest

Did a bit of running (got some new running shorts). A bit of yoga which was a shock to the system (shouldn't have stopped that). Did the patio yesterday. So that's nearly the last of the garden work. Will try the tennis ball thing. Might bite the bullet and get a sports massage. Hope to do some easy trad next week.
mattrm - on 10 Aug 2014
In reply to Exile:

> Thanks. I found it steady, but I'm ok on slabs. You are making the crux move at a point where the gear that would stop you hitting the floor is three RPs and a poor small wire, but it doesn't feel as scary as it sounds.

Right. I'll take your word for that... Really sounds like a good effort now.
grubes - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
> grubes – has weight loss goals to be achieved through some extra swimming? Beware the hunger cravings post swimming as the body temperature is low due to immersion.
Thanks Ally. I have been swimming in a morning and I tend not to eat in a morning so I should of warmed back up by the time I eat.

Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight
get core strength and body tension back

M: Rest
T: Swimming. 30 mins should really start counting lengths
W: Trad. Lead 3xS a VD and solo a diff. Nice steep up hill walk in
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Swimming lesson. 30-40mins lengths working on technique.
Food and drink festival. ergh ate too much but held back on the drink
S: cycled 8.4k 111m ascent to test the legs. definitely not bike fit.
Swimming 45min.
Wanted to go climbing but no partner.

I have been reducing my calorie in take but my weight has gone up. I guess I need to exercise even more.
Dandan82 - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Dandan82 – any chance your elbow issues are related to the long term aim of “strong shoulder”? Here’s an article by Joe le Sage (Sheffield wad/physio) that implies some links in climbers http://climbingphysio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/elbows-introduction.html

That's a great article, thanks for that Ally.
My shoulders are alomst certainly involved in the elbow pain, Nina, my physio has me doing a lot of shoulder stability and ROM exercises. Her aim is to eliminate my elbow pain so she has me doing exercises from my fingertips to my lower back but she is also very aware of the fact I have a repaired shoulder and so is very conscious of keeping that area strong too.
I've had elbow issues since I was at least 15, long before I ever climbed or dislocated my shoulder, I used to get sore elbows after riding my trials mountain bike too much, I spent a lot of time hopping on the back wheel which requires a lot of pulling with the arms.
It's definitely an instability thing rather than simple tendonitis and we are currently trying to attack it from all sides. I need to get back to regular, hard climbing to really see if the current approach is working.

Aside from that, another really broken up week with very little training done, all I managed was a core session on Thursday night!
This one is a write off I think, but back on it this coming week and then I have a whole entire week off so if I can't get outside next week at least a couple of times then there really is no hope for me!
One good point of the week, I did all of my hanging core exercises from a crimp rail on the fingerboard instead of from the big jugs, the fingers feel absolutely top notch, so thats a positive.
Luke Owens - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith: Cheers Ally,

Had a great week this week. Only 2 sessions but 2 sessions that I enjoyed so much they will stay with me for a long time!

Felt like I had bags of endurance on the routes I did this week and felt like I could hang on forever, not sure what's going on but I'm enjoying it! Got a similar experiance towards the end of last year when I was doing mileage at the wall.

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Llanymynech - First time on "Red Wall", always been intimidated by this 30m slightly overhanging wall and always wanted to climb on it. Didn't think my fitness would be up to much so opted for the easiest route on the wall first, a 6c.

On-sighted it and was really happy with how it went, didn't get pumped at all. Checked the guide properly and it turned out I'd onsighted a 7a "Lobster on the Loose"! Couldn't believe it, onsighting 7a has been a big goal of mine for awhile but to do it by accident was bizarre!

Onsighted the actual 6c "Crab Stick" next and again felt pretty easy.

Finished off the session with 3 laps on a 35m 6b.

T: Rest

F: Rest

S: Llanymynech Red Wall - Riding on the psyche from Wednesday I was hoping for a good session, turned out it was!

Onsighted 2 6c+'s "The Deep & "I Saw Three Ships". Again, felt like I could hang on forever (?!). The 2nd route really threw me out of my comfort zone, the upper 3rd gets steep (My antistyle) and more run out, but still I managed to not get that pumped at all.

I had a real awesome experience latching a jug and almost cutting loose near the top not knowing where my next bolt was, the last one was a good 4 meters below!

This meant just as much to me as the 7a onsight from the other day due to the steepy style thing.

S: Rest

I'd recommend Red Wall at Llanymynech to anyone, the routes I've done so far are by far some of the best I've ever done anywhere (I never thought I'd ever be raving about a quarry!). It's completely different to the vert, slabby style routes round the corner from it and the routes get progressively steeper towards the top. It doesn't look like the climbing would be that good from the the deck apart from the massive length but the climbing is fantastic, unique and varied.
Ally Smith on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Luke Owens:

Congratulations on your first 7a on-sight.

Looks like there's more 2* 7a/+'s to get stuck into on that all too?
Ally Smith on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Tyler:
Good luck with the M-T loop; looks like a good challenge to get your teeth into whilst doing your rehab.

P.s. The Fox completed 50-for-5 yesterday if you hadn't heard
Post edited at 10:17
Ally Smith on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Exile: Nice work with Half-life. I remember it feeling pretty bold; the E4 - Nose Decay - next to it felt easier!
Ally Smith on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
Another 8a done this week, and opened my account on two 8b’s. True North is feeling a long way off though.

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems :(
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)

MTG (Summer/Autumn 2014):
- Finalise house purchase and build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- True North, Kilnsey.
- Waddage, Tor
- Maintain trad resurgence and try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – 74.9kg & 6.6% BF. Fatty ate too much this week

STG (The next 2 weeks)(expanded time frame)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing :(
- Do some aero-cap
- Do some fingerboarding
- Bolt & clean the pockets to edges project
- Re-bolt & repair Ecstasy at Kilnsey (Luke – can I have the charger for the drill you loaned me, please?)
- Do the Dinbren link-up project
- Get on Mecca and see what it’s like

Last week:
M - Rest – got keys to house. 2 hours wallpaper stripping. Dawning realisation this is going to take longer than anticipated…
T - Devil’s gorge. 3 laps of 7b/+ stuff, and an hour dangling on a rope cleaning a project.
W - Rest. Felt lurgied at work, but did some more graft on the house.
T - Cheedale Cornice. 7a+ warm-up, failed 7b+ flash, 7b+ RP, quick tickle of nemesis – avoiding it as think it’ll tweak an already tweaky ring finger. 2x K5 dog, taking sideways whippers. 2x 7a TR by head torch. Home at midnight – looking forward to living closer to the Peak!
F - Rest – icing shoulder & finger. Inhaled whole pizza, beer and full fat greek yoghurt
S - Cheedale again – 2Tier. 6b+, 7a+ OS warm-ups, then got back on Aberration. Almost did it 1st go, so much easier in cooler connies. 2nd go completed it, then walked to Cornice and had celebratory crag beer inbetween dogging K5. New beta works a treat, but shoulder still tweaky - same injury as pre- Fisheye :-(
S - Back to Kilnsey. Tropical Storm Bertha failed to stop climbing – 6c, 7a warm-ups, then dogged TN. Did the crux link again, but couldn’t add in extra moves from below. Dogged Ecstasy – felt hard, but might persist as it’s my anti-style front-on board climbing – very little twisting is going to save you on this one! 7b flash warm-down.
Dandan82 - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

I always enjoy your posts Ally, it's inspiring stuff! Although things like "7a+ O/S warm up" fills me with envy and impotent rage that I can't get outside more...

One thing I would ask, for a non-peak local like myself, could you mention the grade when you write about the harder routes you are working? Just so I can judge exactly how many orders of magnitude harder you climb than me!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dandan82 - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

> M - Rest – got keys to house. 2 hours wallpaper stripping. Dawning realisation this is going to take longer than anticipated…

welcome to DIY club, it's truly never ending :)
Luke Owens - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Congratulations on your first 7a on-sight.

> Looks like there's more 2* 7a/+'s to get stuck into on that all too?

Thanks bud, top effort on another 8a!

Can I tempt you to Llanymynech this week? Would be an easy session for you on Red Wall though. I've been working through the 6c/+'s first and saving the two 7a+'s "The Ancient Mariner" and "Mussel Bound" until last as they are both supposed to be 3*!.

There's a couple of 7a's I'd like to onsight there this week. If you fancy it I can bring along the drill charger too.
mattrm - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Dandan82:

> welcome to DIY club, it's truly never ending :)

I laughed when I saw Ally's comment about it taking a while. I remember when I first bought the house and we both thought 'this'll only take a few weekends', bit of wallpapering and painting, won't take long at all. Over two years later and the end is finally in sight.

Ally - Welcome to UKC 'You're not going to climb 8c this year, if you're doing loads of DIY' club ;)
Ally Smith on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Dandan82:

Nemeis is a classic hard 8a+ - 7B+(?) to a jug, then easier headwall.

K5 is a 8b link-up of K3 (8a+) into the top of Powerplant (8a) - undercuts galore.

Aberration is a soft 8a - vert sideways shuffling.

True North (TN) is 8c - lifetime goal

Ecstasy is 8b; supposedly a soft-touch but probably isn't anymore now Matt ripped one of the holds off.
Dandan82 - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for that, nice to put your ridiculous achievements into perspective. ;)

I had my eye on Powerplant or Roof warrior when I lived in the midlands and the peak was my closest climbing, unfortunately that was the year that the cornice never dried out so i've never even climbed in Chee Dale :(
biscuit - on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally. Great week for you again.

Nothing from me last week as i did...nothing !

This week has been much better but i know already the chances of me getting anything done this week are nil. But i'm just going with it rather than getting frustrated and will get some running/cycling in where i can.

2 climbing sessions and 4 runs this week.

!st session was just falling practice. No point in trying to get fit when i'm only climbing once every so often. Decided to just climb and throw myself off at random. Scary to start ( which is why i needed to do it ) and ended up taking some really good, missed clip, whippers over the lip of the mammut wall etc. As i was falling off about 4 or 5 times each route and then climbing back to my last clip i also got quite a workout.

Bouldering was good too. Tried a V5, that's about V7. Couldn't do the first move, then couldn't do the 2nd move, then couldn't do the 3rd move. Finally pieced it altogether but too knackered to put it together.

Running was nice. 2 short and fast runs, 2 longer runs, one about 8 miles the other about 6.

Was hoping to get out in Dartmoor at the weekend but hurricane Bertha arrived on the wrong day for us.

This week i'll just get in what i can but i don't think it'll be much.
Nick Russell on 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Nick Russell – stateside this week? I recall “Sing a mean toon” being a definite step up from “House Burning Down” – good to consolidate at these grades before pushing on to greater things

Yeah, been in the states all week, flying back today/tomorrow. I'd heard the same about SAMTK and seeing somebody on it, it looked a lot harder. I get the argument for consolidating, but there's also a case to be made for trying a step up every now and then, rather than just relying on incremental progress, right? At least having a play on a harder route will let me know what I'm aiming for.

Aside from being away, I've had a pretty crap week with the lurgy, probably caught on the flight. I'd planned it to be a rest week, but I don't know how useful rest is when you're ill. Any thoughts, anyone?

M-F - Nothing. Lurgy and meetings.
S - Feeling slightly less grim. Bouldering at Santa Barbara. Cool sandstone boulders, really hot.
S - First day in a week without a headache! Went to the indoor wall. 2x[5.11d, 5.11b], plus a bit of other stuff.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a navigation error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 283/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits


Short-term goals
  • Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range, find something I like in 7c+-8a+ range.
  • Plan/train for trips in September: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in North East US.
    4 weeks to go: 3 in Bristol, 1 in London
  • Devise training plan to implement in October.
    Maybe I'll stick to it for more than a couple of weeks this time
  • Exile - on 11 Aug 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    Very good effort with the 7a!
    Exile - on 11 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    I ran out of time, (on a family holiday and needed to be back,) but I feel like I should have 'ridden the wave' and got on that too. Next time!
    Just Tintin - on 12 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Cheers Ally – another great week from you. Sounds like it’ll need to be very small changes you can make to your muscle balance without losing power - you might just have to do a few long AT2 cardio sessions using heartrate zones and stay off the more explosive stuff depending on what your projects are – with that low a percentage body fat you haven’t got much to play with apart from what kind of muscle you have and where you put it!

    An odd week as quite busy. This week will be worse as have Secret Cinema Back to the Future on Thursday and to lead a walk for my mum's blind group on Wednesday, then also signed up to Lakeland Triathlon on Sat!

    M – Yoga/pilates 1 hour
    T- rest
    W – Milton Keynes bouldering: Stamina circuits
    T – Yoga/pilates 45 minutes
    F - Rest
    S – Harborough bouldering/soloing being a good crag moderator. Nothing spectacular.
    S – Raining so Wirksworth everything session. 8 route lead pyramid with 3x6c, 2 TRed 7as, boulder pyramid V0-3. Very pleased with the roped stuff.

    Gardening Club news for mattrm: weeded cottage back yard and planted herbs out front. Brought some vines back from Bergerac so will see how they get on.
    Ally Smith on 13 Aug 2014
    In reply to Just Tintin:
    What's
    > AT2 cardio sessions using heartrate zones
    ?
    Goonie - on 13 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks Allly

    Not a bad week and managed to continue with reasonable volume only thing dropped was pullup session. Still all on plastic, Managed to complete a couple of problems that were left over and were bugging me around V5/V6 and got some progress on a V7.

    New set at the Castle on Panels managed to complete all but two problems so target next week is to finish the set (something I've never done).

    Progress on Wave problems though no ticks though feeling better on the moves.

    Next week will be much of the same and then the next fornight I will be in france on family holiday this is now looking like a mostly non climbing hol :-(

    Goals for last week were:

    - Try to get 1 ring sessions and three core sessions. (Rings ticked, Core x 2)
    - Three bouldering sessions (tick x4)
    - 2 fingerboard sessions. (tick)
    - 1 pullup session.(fail)
    - 2 press-ups sessions (tick)

    LTG (End 2014):
    - 8a (route to be decided)
    - 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
    - Front Lever hold 5 sec.
    - 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
    - Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
    - weight under 75kg

    MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
    - V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
    - trip to Ardeche now 7c minimum!
    - indoor V7
    - try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
    - Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
    - Weight under 77kg by August trip.

    STG (The coming week)
    - Try to get two core sessions and 1 ring sessions.
    - Three bouldering sessions
    - 2 fingerboard sessions.
    - 1 pullup session.
    - 2 press-ups sessions

    Last Week:
    M - Rest
    T- Bouldering session (Wave) Fingerboard. Hard low energy
    W- Bouldering session rings and core.
    T- Bouldering session Panels & Wave Pressups. Ok energy levels PB on Wave
    F- Rest (Raft guiding for 4 hours)
    S- Work but time at end so continued on Wave probles and Panels good progress and felt OK. 200 press-ups to finish in various positions. completed a V6 and some hard V5's.
    Su- Bouldering after work 2.5 hours on Wave after warm up felt lethargic, did fingerboard session and core session. These were both ok.

    Try and stay psyched for plastic!

    Weight this week at 78.4 kg (Sunday Morning), going down not sure why as not changed much....weird!

    Cheers all

    Gordon
    Goonie - on 13 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Hi Ally

    Noticed one of your goals was 8a onsight in Kaly.

    If you've not been before their are three I would recommend for you as good routes and very onsightable.

    Angelica 8a at Arhi (I was very close to this and it was the last moves which felt like the crux if you like small crimps the crux will be easy the rest is on big holds just pumpy)

    Daniboy 8a at Spartacus (I only managed to dog this though the bottom was easy into some powerful moves into and airy crux involving a mono, quite technical in the upper parts) I preferred Angelica but others really rate this route)

    Fun di Chichunne at Grande Grotte ( Never tried it but people were onsighting it right left and centre and saying that it is only just a little harder than priapos pitch 1 7c)

    Also Priapos is amazing and the continuation I believe goes at 8a)

    Hope that's of interest!!

    Gordon
    Humperdink - on 13 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > Humperdink – Fast 5km this week? Thanks for the reality check on the chunky leg front.

    Cheers Ally. Apologies if the chunky leg thing was too much of a reality check. Whilst is good to make easy gains I think you've picked the low hanging fruit a while ago! Having said that it just means that the hard earned gains you make now will be even more satisfying.

    M: Lunchtime - 5/6M easy in 35:51 pm - 5/6M easy in 36:11
    Tu: pm - easy session: 10 x "200m" off 90secs jog felt ok, reps not quite flat out. 6/7M total
    W: Rest (fly to Glasgow and back so not that restful)
    Th: Lunchtime - 5M v.easy in 41:22
    F: Lunchtime - 5M steady in 30:14
    Sa: am - 2/3M easy+ strides
    Su: pm - BMAF Champs @ Birmingham 5000m. Storm Bertha meant conditions were sub optimal to say the least but at least it stopped raining for my race although it was very windy. After a fairly slow opening lap I went to the front to make sure it was a proper race. After another 4 laps I'd got it down to just me and one guy sitting in and it continued that way until 2.5 laps to go. By this point I'd thought I'd have dropped him so decided to go out into lane 2 and let him lead as I didn't want to get outkicked. Fortunately he came through and after sitting in second for the next 500m I realised why I hadn't dropped him - it was a lot easier. Feeling better I kicked at the bell and felt strong coming home to win by over 10 seconds in 15:27.4. So not the time I was looking for (almost 30secs slower than my best this year) but the right result and all that short stuff I've been doing paid off with a good last lap.

    Total ~40M and that's it for the track season! Now going to have a very easy week!
    Just Tintin - on 15 Aug 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Hi Ally,

    Sorry firstly it was iphone corrected and should be UT2, and secondly, I didn't realise it was a rowing training term and not a general fitness one. It might be more rowing specific, but just in case it helps...

    I trained up to GB-level rowing for several years and raced as a lightweight (not by choice, or natural body type, but through shortness of limbs and only being 5ft7) so was always playing with muscle-positioning with a very low body fat percentage. UT2 training (55-70% of maximum heartrate, light aerobic, low lactic production) is used generally to build cardio fitness and burn fat, but more specifically thereafter to de-bulk explosive powerful muscle (depending on what type of testing was happening in the season) in order to be able to then 'move' it elsewhere and maintain/lose weight. So in the winter season we tended to shift the muscle bulk to arms/legs for getting good scores in the free weights max testing etc, and then slimmed down for race season.

    The disadvantage for climbing would be that it would mean lots of long non-powerful steady runs and cycles which might mean less climbing. And if you like to push yourself more intensely you can't. With very low body fat and still wanting to lose weight it was the only way to go for a few of us, but we had to decide where we wanted the muscle and be willing to get a bit leaner in other places.

    As I said maybe transferable, maybe not, and probably you're doing this already without the silly rowing jargon!

    This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.