UKC

don quixote, dolomites

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 trekclimb 10 Aug 2014
Hi all, i'm hoping to do this route in September and i'm after any insider tips anyone may have, ie gear, where you consider the crux to be, how long time wise.

thanks
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 10 Aug 2014
In reply to trekclimb:

The route is pretty well protected (as far as routes on the Marmolada South face go) so a light ish standard rack, you don't need pegs.

The crux is on pitch 20. You can either take a strenuous but very well protected crack (recommended way) or go around the wall to the left with easier (HVS ish) climbing but with few opportunities for gear.

You can move together for the majority of the first half which will speed things up. Expect the route to take 6-10 hours if you've not done it before. The aim is to get the last cable car down at 4pm.

Have a study of the route from the valley floor the previous night, and find the start if you get chance.

Most importantly enjoy! It's a great route, particularly in the upper half. If you're feeling keen in my opinion it's best to do the first half of Schwalbenschwanz up to the great terrace. Then finish up Don Quixote. Then you get the best two halves of each route.
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 10 Aug 2014
 matt perks 10 Aug 2014
In reply to James Rushforth: That's quite a hefty sac!
 matt perks 10 Aug 2014
In reply to James Rushforth: Hmm - make that 'rucksac'
 matt perks 10 Aug 2014
In reply to James Rushforth: That all fits with my memory of it. The hard bit is a lot harder than the rest (felt like E2 to me but I may have been knackered and it was snowing) but it is fully pegged so "French free" or full aiding is not difficult. You may not find the lower part entirely conducive to moving together; we had some minor issues with route finding (of course, that was before the Rockfax!) and there are some slightly tricky sections and, IIRC, the odd bit of loose rock. I wasn't overly impressed with the quality so it may well be that James' suggestion about combining routes is a very good one. A night in the cable car station is unpleasant but entirely survivable so don't get too stressed about making the last car down but it's well worth it if you can get the afterburners on.
 markk 10 Aug 2014
In reply to trekclimb: We managed to keep sacks really light by dossing under blankets in the refuge at the base of the route. Descended by abbing straight down the N. face onto the Marmolada Glacier which was dry and fine to descend in trainers (without axes).

 pete johnson 11 Aug 2014
In reply to trekclimb: Check the cable car is still running to the top station every day. You'll have to start early and move very fast to get up and off the route and on to the station by 4pm. Getting off the route and on to the flat section of the glacier is relatively straightforward but i would suggest some light crampons for the initial, steeper part of the descent on the glacier - I certainly wished I'd had some when I did it - there are a number of crevasses awaiting you if you slip. The glacier has receded somewhat since the guidebook description was written
Its a long walk down if you miss the cable car.
Crux pitch is E2/3 if you do it free but easy to aid.
Recce the start of the route the evening before. You'll be starting in the dark and could save yourselves a lot of time.
Great route - especially the upper half.
 matt perks 17 Aug 2014
In reply to pete johnson:

My memory is very hazy but doesn't it top out above the lower cable-car station?

Also, I've never come down the glacier, always the cable car, but a while back when trying to find out about the descent I thought I found mention of a route down in roughly the direction of the cable car that went down to Malga Ciapela rather than coming out miles from the car up at Fedaia. Anyone know about this - possibly it was an ancient forum post on here?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...