/ PRODUCT NEWS: OutDoor 2014 - Climbing Hardware Report
This year there are a lot of new and exciting belay devices and a neat development in wired protection.
Don't miss the next report focussing on Harnesses...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=6511
So, does the Grip belay from DMM actually work as a hands free (once locked) like a gri-gri? Or is it just a little more brakey than an ATC?
The video doesn't do too much to impress tbh because I can sit quite happily on my reverso and support my weight with just a finger and thumb.
Also, why only a sport version of this and not a trad one for two ropes as well?
Exactly. It's not an auto locking plate (well, you know what I mean). It just locks off the device so one does not have to hold the rope (however, it looks like you still have to pinch the rope).
Honestly, it is quite easy to tie off a belay plate, I do not see the point of having DMM Grip.
I don't think the grip serves any sort of auto locking function. It's just a big-standard belay device that uses some clever mechanisms to reduce the force you need to apply to the brake end of there rope to lock it off.
I'll confess that I like the look of it and it definitely has benefits over a standard (non locking) belay plate. However, I'm not quite sure who it is supposed to appeal to? It'll definitely give beginners more confidence when learning, as you won't have to hold on as tight. But I can't see many beginners shelling out that much for a belay plate.
Will sport climbers and indoor climbers go for it? I'm not sure..... Something auto locking definitely has benefits and can be picked up way cheaper.
I like the look of it too, very clever design. Am I the only one who can't imagine it working easily while abseiling or lowing someone off? Looks like it only works 'locked off' or when there is no weight on the rope.
I think if I had someone fairly new to catching leader falls belaying me I'd feel a lot more comfortable if they were using one of these new DMM things. It certainly looks like it would make catching a big fall on a thin rope a lot more foolproof.
The Grip isn't any sort of 'auto-locking' device, it just gives extra bite in a fall. I can see it being popular with sport climbers- I know plenty of people who hate belaying with a GriGri.
Also, I've been told that there will probably be a trad version on the way, but it needs a bit more R&D to get it to a functional size/weight.
Having seen it work first hand, I can say it works great when lowering someone off. When the angle of the rope is reduced the spring tries to close the hinge and releases the rope pinching points at the back.
I can't say as to whether they will recommend it for abseiling or not but I don't see why not. There should be enough material to absorb the heat.
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