UKC

Hi Everyone,

Off for a holiday in Scotland, staying in Ballater. Hoping to get out and do some climbing in the Pass (assuming no rain!!).

Problem is I dont have a guide book. Anyone got info on how easy it is to spot climbs/the best crag to go to?

Looking for anything in the vdiff-VS range preferably where I can let some of my friends toprope or do simple seconding.

cheers,
Sam

In reply to Womble:

For the VDiff - VS grade range, you're probably best heading to the middle tier of the Western Sector (just take the path up to the crag from the far end of the track from the car part that runs along the base of the scree slope under the crag and cut back in at the base of the middle tier).

Jumbled Blocks Crack is pretty obvious here as by far the easiest line, and you can use the logbook page to work out what lies to the left and right of it (there should also be photos for some of the routes which will help). The corner of Brut and the mid-height overlap of Stinker/Cowardie Custard are also good landmarks to look out for.

In reply to Womble:

As Stuart says, the lefthand side of the crag will be best for your needs - walk along the base below the scree then go up. Routes here are quite short - just pick whatever takes your fancy. The trees above the crag make the belays easy to arrange.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

When I first went to the Pass I didn't have a guidebook. VS was the top of my grade range at the time. I thought Bluter Groove looked like something I should be able to manage. That was the first of many times I have struggled to get off the deck at the Pass! Funnily enough didn't manage it that day - was a good few years before I did.

We did manage to find some more suitable climbs - Strawberry Ripple being one of them.

In reply to Womble:

best bet! pop into mcofs office in perth, see kev and get a photcopy of the NE outcrops Pass of Ballater pages! theres not much in the Vdiff to vs range in the pass. lots of nice short routes (nasty landings if you get your gear wrong)

In reply to gforce:

That's quite funny. Has the groove itself actually been climbed? (think the route usually starts up the rib)

In reply to ye hallowed lands:

Partly true. There are some good VSs, but almost nothing below VS.

In reply to Womble:

Cool cheers for the advice guys!

In reply to Mark Bannan:

14 routes below VS, of which 2 get stars

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

yep certainly enough on the left bit for a day leading/toproping (or an evening soloing).

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

sorry I meant almost nothing with stars below VS.