UKC

I'm thinking of organising a group trip for ice climbing this coming winter and I 'know' the obvious answer will probably be Cogne (!) but here are my criteria:

1) Cheaper than Norway (need to keep costs down);
2) Ease of accessibility (not everyone in the party will be able to ski, or do really long walk-ins for that matter);
3) Good range of grades (the group will have relative ice novices like myself up to fairly experienced mixed climbers);
4) Option of off-piste skiing / ski touring including for access (not a deal breaker, but it would be nice!)

Although Cogne ticks 1, 3 and 4 fairly well, the length of the routes, avalanche potential and often long walk-ins (for those routes further up the valley) count against it as an option: if avalanche conditions are dangerous, half the group will have nothing to do (the rest of us can always go piste ski-ing)!

I'd be interested to hear people's ideas and experiences, plus pointers for suitable guidebooks would be useful.

Cheers,

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Arolla? Though may not really do so well on point 1. Some excellent off-piste though and ice by the side of the road. Good early in the season as the region gets a fair bit of snow putting the icefalls at risks from avalanches.

In reply to PontiusPirate: Briancon would be my vote or Argentiere le besse. From there you can choose venues to suit conditions e.g drive to La Grave, south to Ceillac. Plenty or routes with short approaches also opportunity to use skis to get into some of the biggers valleys such as Fournel or Fressiners etc.

Loads of climbing in the Queyras as well. Plus the hordes will be in Cogne

In reply to James Thacker:

Agree with James but sssshhhh keep it quite.

Cheers

Toby

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Kandersteg? plenty of waterfalls there with easy access, but I dunno what they're like for freezing up.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Dolomites, Canzei area. Spend a few days at Sottoguda (www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36663#) and plenty more to go at in the surrounding area. And the Sella Ronda for some sightseeing on planks.

In reply to James Thacker:


haven't conditions been rubbish the last few years?

In reply to markk:

Canazei you say? Interesting. I've been there in summer, and never considered it a viable winter ice area due to it predominantly being limestone.

Mr Thacker: od you have any info on guidebooks for said areas?

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

I haven't been there yet, but I'm interested in arranging a trip to the small ski resort of Madesimo in Lombardy, Northern Italy.

There is an online guide to ice climbing in the area.

http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/53914/

I'd like to hear from anyone who's been there.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9936

In reply to PontiusPirate:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4437

In reply to PontiusPirate:

The one I have is a bit dated: Glace en cascade... Briançonnais- Argentiérois - Embrunais by R.Borgis and P.Turin

New book out by http://www.visotopo.com Cascades en Queyras Pays du Viso

In reply to Morgan Woods: That's conditions and weather for you. They were also rubbish in Rjukan last winter... Go figure...

In reply to PontiusPirate:

I went to Cogne a few years ago and found it good, although in my opinion not as good as Rjukan.

In reply to Kenco:

Thanks everyone - Rjukan might still be a possibility, but the Dolomites options also look interesting (mainly because of the proximity to ski-ing and ski-touring and the scenery is ace!)

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

In terms of skiing at Rjukan...there is a small ski resort just out of the valley to the north (15 mins drive, maybe?) It's nothing amazing, but it's there if you get a non-climbing day. It's called Gaustablikk. it's where I learnt to ski at the grand old age of 11...

In reply to Kenco:

Cogne not as good as Rjukan?

I would say Rjukan's the worst place I've been ice climbing for the overall experience... an industrial town with a few climbs that is ridiculously expensive and full of brits.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Go to Rjukan!
If your going to spend the money to go on a trip, you might as well be guranteed some climbing.
If you don't eat out its only a tiny fraction more expensive.
Stay here and sacrific a little luxury and you will end up paying the same as you would for Cogne.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

If you're careful, Rjukan ain't much more expensive than the other usual suspects. And for relative ice novices, it is easily better than most other venues - more short routes, more easyish routes, top-roping options (which I don't really like seeing btw - too much route hogging). But for moderate grades upwards (say WI 4 upwards), other venues miles better.

And I know you've not asked, but I reckon good ice climbing like this starts at WI3+ upwards - I've done routes of this grade with ice as steep as many Scottish V's - not ideal novice territory.


The most mileage I've ever crammed in was in Colorado (Ouray) - more expensive but easy to get stacks done with some classics nearby. And hot tubs, skiing etc.

In reply to smithaldo:


You beat me to it! In 15 years of ice weeks we tried Rjukan once. In contrast we've been to Cogne and Briancon areas at least four times each. We found Rjukan to be all you say as well as altogether soulless - compare the Alpine grandeur of Cogne and come to the conclusion Rjukan is better? It takes all sorts!

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Haven't been to Rjukan to compare, but Slovenia is worth a look

In reply to iksander:


Interesting. Out of which resort? Kranjska Gora?

In reply to Martin Bennett:

One of the best reasons to visit Braincon is for the utterly superb Hot Coq.

Thing is, I cant think of anywhere particularly good for 'relative novices'. Water ice climbing isn't suited to it. I've watched many a full blown epic involving Scottish IV climbers having a total nightmare on WI 3's. But scenery etc to one side, Rjukan fits the 'novice' bill better than most.

In reply to mick taylor:

But scenery etc to one side, Rjukan fits the 'novice' bill better than most.

Can't argue with that.

In reply to BnB:
Plenty to go at around Kranjska Gora... if the conditions are good

http://www.gore-ljudje.net/objave/jaka8167/0512/AN_ug_pericnik005.jpg

Not far from Maltatal over the border in Austria for some variety too

Apparently this last winter wasn't so great though..

http://razmere.ice-climbing.net/index.php?vreme=3

In reply to PontiusPirate:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2599 This place would fit some of your criterea, I certainly enjoyed it.