UKC

Me and another are heading out for long weekend to Barcelona, start of September.

Currently have 2 options considered and would thank any advice...

1. Head up to Montserrat and camp. I can't find a website for the campsite that may be at the monastery, is this campsite still there? what facilities are there? do we need to book in advance? Is the climbing in this area good for lower grades (F5s).

2. Stay in a campsite closer to Barcelona and drive to crags. Any recommendations?

I have the Rockfax Barcelona Miniguide and 'Vertiente Norte', the north of the area seems to offer climbing a bit beyond our grade (from the guide book grades). I have been trying to buy the Rock-topos guide to montserrat as the english version is supposed to be available as a download, however the website has been down for weeks, can anybody suggest where I could get hold of a copy or another english guide???

Any advice welcome!

Thanks

In reply to kevball:

I have climbed at Montserrat a little; I am pretty sure there is some kind of climbers Refuge above the monastry just below where the climbs start, but what the facilities are or how you book it I have no idea, (have just done a quick Google and this Refuge may be closed now, perhaps someone else can say?). There will be some good climbing in that area at a reasonable grade, but I have only done one climb there from memory that would be in the 5's. My memory is of it being slabby but runout, and very good. We struggled to find info too!

In reply to kevball:

It was about ten years ago, but we stayed in a self-catering appartment in the monastery itself - really cheap, but really well appointed. May be worth a Google.

JW

In reply to kevball:

Few years ago I climbed at Montserrat while staying in Barcelona for work. Just took a commuter train from Barcelona center. Took about 1,5 hour if I remember correctly.

At that time the Refuge was just a deserted shack, wouldn't want to spend my time there.

Did a multipitch on one of the towers about 6a+. For the most part the bolting was sparse to say the least, but fun climbing anyway and nice views.

In reply to kevball:

Refuge is called Refugi Sant Benet - its quite basic but its in a great location and has a nice atmosphere. The refuge has topos of the climbs too if you cannot find any before you go.

Bolts are quite well spaced as said above so take care choosing your climbs.

In reply to kevball: Campsite is there and open until Oct but for a long week-end you may find it better to either stay in an apt or hotel at the Monastery. I stayed at the hotel just over a year ago and I am sure that it was aprox €35 pp per night for b&b. Give them a call as they do speak English. The climbing on Gorros is perfect at that time of year as you can choose what slope aspect you want depending on the weather as it can still be really hot and there is a huge range of routes in the 4 - 5 range. Don't ignore the 4's as they can be serious climbs compared to similar UK ones and very runout. Take a small rack of wires and friends as you may find it useful. For a topo have a look at http://www.manuelsuarez.org/INFOMONT/resesescalada/Deportiva/Catalunya/Mont...

In reply to Removed UserMike Rhodes:

I was there in June and saw peeps wild camping in the forest up from the monastery, which has nice toilet facility for freshening up in the morning

In reply to kevball:

Thanks for all the reply, really good advice. The topo link is exactly the sort of thing I was after! Seems there is plenty on offer and a choice of accommodation...

I'll make sure I report any findings / advice etc...

Thanks again

In reply to kevball:

We have stayed in the rooms in the monastery on several occasions - the whole place is magical when the tourist hoards bugger off at about 4:00. They sell any current guides in the bookshop in the monastery complex.
I have done dozens of routes around the monastery, the Gorros, San Bennet and the Caval Bernet and never placed a nut.

Monastery: http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/57018998

San Bennet (refuge just visible) http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/56998660

Caval Bernat: http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/56997882

Magic spot!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

So as a highly experienced climber who cruises bold 4 and works on guidebooks for the masses you feel the need to emphasise you never used a nut? Mike Rhodes' advice seemed pretty sensible to me.

In reply to Offwidth:


He asked for advice, I offered some based on my considerable experience of climbing in the area, including the fact we haven't needed to carry trad gear - why do you have issues with that?

FWIW 1) generally the rock is so compact/homogeneous there are few cracks available and 2) most of the popular classics have been fully bolted.

Typical Montserrat rock: http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/57020340


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I made the point because other people who have experience climbing there say its useful especially for those who are not cruising on the bolder easier lines. Just because thats not the case for you on the routes you did doesn't mean others might not appreciate it.

In reply to kevball:

This thread helps illustrate some of the complex background to Montserrat climbing.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=574591&v=1#x7630648

In reply to Offwidth: Hey Offwidth. Don't knock Chris for his views. He happens to be an old bold climber. Chris is right in one respect that the rock in the Gorros area is more compact that some of the other areas but I have always found, being an older (than Chris) less bold climber, that the easier routes (up to F5a) are very poorly bolted and I have often found it useful to carry a small rack which I have used on perhaps 80% of the routes I have climbed there. Perhaps it is just that I feel more comfortable carrying a small rack "just in case". Chris, I live in Les Angles in the Pyrenees Orientales just 80 mins from Ax so if you ever want to come and climb in our area just let me know.

In reply to Removed UserMike Rhodes:


Getting more of the older and less of the bolder as the years roll by!


Sounds great, we spend a lot of time in the Pyrenees and are always looking for new areas to visit, should be back down there early December, if not before,


Chris

In reply to kevball:

few multi pitch we done between us were all very well bolted - placed 14 draws in one f4 pitch

In reply to kevball:

Regarding guide book gradeing, am I correct in thinking there seems to be a convention to use both UIAA and French systems? UIAA for anything < F5?

Thanks,

Kev

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Maybe a bit too cold for local cragging but we live in a ski station and the snow shoeing is really good and Montserrat is just 2 hours away. Make a change from the Plateau de Beille!