/ Dewerstone HVS suggestions?

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Merlin - on 14 Aug 2014
I'm yet to climb HVS on granite (partially due to fear!), feeling I ought to crack on and get something done at the local crag before summer ceases.

Can anyone recommend any lines at The Dewerstone that aren't too brutal, if such exist? 5a preferably.
1poundSOCKS - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

If you can jam well, Climbers Club Direct is an option. It isn't that easy though, and it does have a steep intimidating start, which might be put you off.

Probably not a good recommendation, but it's the only HVS I've done there. :)
SteveoS - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

Vala - Cam eater
+
Silken thread/Imperialist
Merlin - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Ha! Perhaps not then.

Cyclops anyone?
Cusco - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

The first pitch of climbers club direct is amazing and three star fun. The initial overhang isn't too bad if you can jam and commit.

But Christ I wasnt expecting the top pitch to be so tough for the grade! 4c my arse. It's much harder than the first pitch and more insecure. A real sting in the tail and proper old school. To be honest it sullied the route.

Isn't cyclops the one with the bold first pitch?

Vala is great and well protected.

If you want dartmoor hvs, try outward bound on lowman (awesome Patey class) and aviation on a lovely summers evening (its E1 in the morning and when its grey). Or wind wall at sheeps tor - short great and well protected. Or Hydraulic Arete at Hound Tor.
Matt Amos - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

The first pitch of climbers club direct is fantasic. The second pitch felt very hard for 4c, more like 5a full body jamming, but is still really enjoyable and I would say three stars.
Kemics - on 14 Aug 2014
In reply to Cusco:

> The first pitch of climbers club direct is amazing and three star fun. The initial overhang isn't too bad if you can jam and commit.

> But Christ I wasnt expecting the top pitch to be so tough for the grade! 4c my arse. It's much harder than the first pitch and more insecure. A real sting in the tail and proper old school. To be honest it sullied the route.

THIS!

Very nearly caught me out, serious sting in the tail. Everyone mentions the first pitch of CCD but not the second (not to mention the run out start to it) i very nearly fell off (out)

I'd say Vala is a perfect intro to HVS. It basically only has one 5a move. Which is really well protected by cams at your waist. Super safe fall and a great route...even if it is probably vs 5a ;)
Mark Collins - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

Climbers Club Direct is the best HVS I've done, and it did me for a long time. An absolutely stunning line, which in my opinion is right up there with the very best at the grade.
Phil79 - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

Vala, as others have said is well protected, and pretty soft for the grade.

Spiders Web is also a lovely route, more delicate than brutal, although the traverse on the second pitch might be a bit gripping for a first HVS.
philhilo - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

Agree on the CCB Direct - partner was looking to push the grade on HVS so I pointed them at this, that was a mistake. After lots of them trying I took over and whoa....I am solid at E2 and daly up to E4 and it was only the grade that got me through the start. Top pitch is bold flaring cracks, overall total sandbag at HVS, prob worth E1 5b and not soft.

Yep, best to pick another one!
Toby_W on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to philhilo:

Oh my god, CCB Direct, I can't jam for toffee so the whole rest of the climb was easy peasy after the feary grunting sweatfest of the first bit. I don't even remember the second pitch let alone any of the rest of the climb.

Enjoy.

Toby
1poundSOCKS - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to Toby_W:

I thought the second pitch was fine, brilliant fun (although I didn't lead that pitch). The start was the hardest bit for me, but not that bad for an HVS crack. 3 star route all the way I thought.

Wouldn't necessarily be a good first HVS though.
Toby_W on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I bow to all more considered, composed opinions on this one :-O. Saying that I think I did enjoy it and it was memorable. The crowd of climber I'd never met before who gathered round the bottom to watch my efforts helped my up the first bit I think, pride is a terrible thing.

Cheers

Toby
andrewmcleod - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to Phil79:

> Vala, as others have said is well protected, and pretty soft for the grade.

Vala is (apparently, not got on it yet) soft for the grade because most people miss out the top two pitches - which includes the crux.
CurlyStevo - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to philhilo:

OK I don't think CCB Direct is worth E1. The start is quite straight forward jamming although a bit pumpy to place enough gear to avoid a ground fall as you round the overhang. After that it's pretty normal HVS fair on pitch 1.

Pitch 2 the final offwidth is solid 5a not 4c IMO and was the crux for me. It had me stumped for quite a while! Then I found a semi hidden hold out on the arete and it went and felt HVS 5a. The gear is good through out IMO but large cams are a good idea for the top pitch.
Phil79 - on 15 Aug 2014
In reply to andrewmcleod:

Indeed. Tim Dennell's excellent guide describes Vala as follows:

1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until itís possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.

I've never done the 2 or 3 pitch, and I suspect few others have. I cant actually picture where they go as its generally so overgrown in that area. Presumably the two chimneys and 'problematic wall' is somewhere to the right of Vineyards finish?
Kemics - on 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Phil79:

Hmm interesting I had no idea there even were more pitches! Explains the grading :)
Merlin - on 17 Aug 2014
In reply to Phil79:

Interesting, I was on Vineyard two weeks ago, and as you say, everything to the right is pretty overgrown.
wiwwim - on 17 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin: I just lay back the first bit rather than jam. Do in 2 pitches. CG in one pitch too. Vala is a good choice, esp. since there is a nice thread before the traverse.
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SanchoPascoe - on 18 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

Spiders web has only been mentioned once here yet I feel that it is the better of all of the HVS's. CCD the jamming is testing on that first pitch and the top of the pitch is hard work. |The second pitch is top end 4c but sustained and needs commitment, which I failed to find! Vala is a relatively soft touch at HVS one short section to pull right around the overhang but it is well protected with cams (use a long extender) or nuts. And Yogi was worth a look but is in need of more traffic as it has developed greenery and lichen. Shame really, two very contrasting pitches. But at the end of the day of all the HVS's I have climbed at Dewerstone Spider's Web is the most memorable.

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