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Galloway - Recommendations

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 Frankie boy 16 Aug 2014
Hi,
We're off up to Galloway soon and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for good crags to visit - sea cliffs and in the hills.
Also, are there any good places to camp / park the van up for the night?
Thanks
Frank
 Nick_Scots 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Frankie boy:

Don't go to Clifton ! it was horrendous with brambles and thorns and overgrown in early May. it's also tiny - for the effort getting there.

We wanted to try the sea cliffs but it was wet n windy.

There are many sea side, discrete, laybys for camper vans.
 JMarkW 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Frankie boy:

I have climbed at Meikle Ross a couple of times. Its no Gogarth or Pembroke but the climbing is good and a fantastic setting. Some topos on John Biggars website I think.

Also went to Clifton. Not impressed. Not been to the granite crags in the mountains, but with a bike, good forecast I don't think you would be disappointed from all accounts.

The fish and chip shop in Kirkcudbright by the harbour is excellent. Nice little spot at brighouse bay on the opposite side to the campsite where I usually launch from.

The Galloway smoke house is not to be missed.

Cheers
Mark

 JDal 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Mark Westerman:

I'd second what Mark says, we have an annual club meet near Meikle Ross. It's a kind of soft intro to secliff climbing. Clifton is ok, but a nightmare for access. I thought the Thirlstane was a bit rubbish really, but I'm used to Northumberland Sandstone. The seacliffs look good farther west, but not been there.

John Biggars site has loads of info on all the crags.

http://www.johnbiggar.com/galloway-climbing-index.asp
In reply to Frankie boy:

Clifton is hardly any effort to get to if you are in the area anyway as it's only 10 minutes from the road. The brambles are a bit of a pain, but the trick is to base yourself at the top of the crag and descend or ab into the various buttress - and the left-hand buttress is clear of brambles anyway (and consequently quite popular). It is just a short roadside outcrop (14m max), but the routes are very good, particularly the likes of Jeune Ecole (HS), Dirl Chimney (VS) and Wall Street (E1).

Unfortunately, the best of the Gallway climbing is in the hills and the best of what is there entails a long approach, though if you have bikes, it's not too bad for a day. If you do have bikes, I'd recommend a day at the Dungeon of Buchan (the best crag in Galloway, in fact probably the best crag in the Scottish Lowlands) http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/dungeon.htm or the more recently developed Point of the Snibe http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/craignaw.htm#snibe. Both these would mean parking your van at Craigencallie which has a crag with a few good routes but mostly a lot of mossy ones (http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/craigencallie.htm ).

If you don't have bikes, consider a day at the Clints of Dromore (nice parking sport for your van near the old viaduct from where it's only 15 mins to the crag): http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/clints.htm . The other crag that's even closer to the road is Craig Dews but the routes are variable in quality (http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/craigdews.htm ) - there are more routes added here recently (see: https://www.facebook.com/groups/189847150690/ ). Also close to the road but not worth visiting during the midge season is Corwar: http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/corwar.htm .

Of the seacliffs, Crammag is very pleasant, and granite, rather than greywacke, but parking will be a problem, theough the farmer is very friendly and may well let you park in his yard.

For all these granite crags, a double rack of cams is a great asset as nuts and wires are generally hard to place. All the descriptions are in the SMC Lowland Outcrops guide (except for Point of the Snibe, for which see the link above).
OP Frankie boy 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Frankie boy:

Wow, a lot of great info there. Thanks all for your help, at least I'll have a bit of an idea now when there instead of just running round like a headless chicken.

Thanks again
Frank
 Mike-W-99 16 Aug 2014
In reply to Frankie boy:

Dungeon of Buchan is good even if you have to cross the boggiest bog in Scotland to access it. Bothy nearby was tempting but the barriers don't seem to be locked on the road in thus maybe potluck as to the occupants.
Corwar is worth a look, we same in round the back rather than bush whacking in from the top.

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