In reply to Luke Owens:
Big news – ticked the obligatory qualifying route (Chimes of Freedom) and then opened an account on Mecca…
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Autumn 2014):
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca & Waddage, Tor
- K5, Cheedale Cornice
- Re-visit trad & try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – steady at 74.9kg & 6.6% BF, but feel a bit leaner/more powerful.
Old
STG (The next 2 weeks)(Check in this week)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing. Shoulder and finger starting to feel better
- Do some aero-cap – 1 session only
- Do some fingerboarding – fail, but beastmaker installed as part of DIY epic.
- Bolt & clean the pockets to edges project – half cleaned, not sure I’ll put the effort in to finish it. Got bigger fish to fry.
- Re-bolt & repair Ecstasy at Kilnsey – not been back
- Do the Dinbren link-up project – not been back
- Get on Mecca and see what it’s like – the big fish that needs frying
New
STG (The next 2 weeks)(Check in this week)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing.
- Do some an-cap & aero-cap
- Do some fingerboarding.
- Do the Dinbren link-up project
- All the moves and small links on Mecca
Last week:
M - Rest – moved some stuff into new house. Shoulder stability theraband session.
T - Post work Tor session. Dogged Chimes (8a+), then 3 RP’s, each improving in flow, and high point on 3rd and final go. Dropped it matching the higher crimp rail (RP crux). Very chuffed with this progress as it opens up a host of link-up possibilities. RP’d the headwall from jugs post crux (7c-ish).
W - Pre-work training psyche! Full an-cap session at Hoopla 12x long Font 7A/B link-ups. Dropped final move, of final rep of final set, so got the intensity just right! Post work decorating followed by quick shoulder stability theraband session.
T - 430 core & antagonist movements pre-work, more DIY post-work.
F - Rest – DOMS & DIY.
S - Tor. Ticked Chimes, 4th RP. First time through short Chimes (8a) went to the top. Then got on Mecca (8b+ surely you don’t need telling that!). Did 90% of the moves on the first dog, including a nice link through the kneebar section. Psyched doesn’t come close!
S - Full day DIY & gardening. Not much of a rest.