/ UKC Fit Club Week 387
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
Psyche video of the week - http://www.vimeo.com/101965363 - high altitude, high-ball, high-risk bouldering...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Tyler – best of luck on “project recovery” – what did the physio say? Have fun biking in the meantime.
hms – Congratulations with your 2nd ever 7b. Lots of volume in the last couple of weeks. Did you have a light week; it’s a sensible idea to avoid injury?
Exile – You should be well chuffed with Half-Life as your first E3 – my guidebooks scribbles say E4? (The Pickford agreed with this sentiment.)
JimmyKay – welcome back again – I hope you went easy on the finger this week to ease yourself back into training?
IainRUK – the epitome of dedication – running on the morning of your wedding - Congratulations!
mattrm – finished with gardening club this week?
grubes – beware the metabolic pitfalls of missing breakfast
Dandan82 – good to hear the fingers are sorted – hope the rest of you is fixed up soon?
Luke Owens – 7a on-sight – Ooosh! (as some of our mutual friends would say...) I could be tempted by Llanymynech aero-cap session this week – the Nomad wall routes look good.
Ally Smith – DIY/gardening club is never ending and exacerbates shoulder problems :-(
biscuit – falling IS SCARY it’s in our DNA to be afraid of plummeting groundwards. Good on you for addressing this – it’s a quick win compared to the long slog of physical training and a really good thing to do whilst “life” is getting in the way.
Nick Russell – good effort fitting in some climbing whilst away on business; my trips tend to be gluttony with an occasional hotel gym visit just so I can justify eating another epic steak on expenses!
Just Tintin – Thanks for the UT2 explanation. I’m probably pushing it a bit too much MTB’ing to reduce muscle mass. Hope you fitted some climbing/training in around another busy week?
Goonie – great to see you maintaining the psyche – keep up the good work. Thanks for the Kaly recommendations – I hadn’t spotted Angelica before.
Humperdink – congratulations on the BMAF championship win! Sounds like you ran a good tactical race in challenging conditions. Enjoy a well earned rest week
missed last week as there was no wifi. Not as productive as the first week of the trip but still got some good climbing done. Highlights were:
- getting absolutely terrified on a '6a' with 6 bolts in 35m!
- setting of up a ten pitch 350m E3 at 4.30pm, and making it down in time for (a rather late) tea.
- cutting loose well above the bolt on said E3 crux pitch.
- making a potential first ascent, onsight, of a plum line listed as an open project, around 7b+.
But also lots of rain and driving.
Mon - Driving
Tue - Driving and a boat
Wed - made it home at 5 and played on the board for a bit, felt surprisingly strong. Can still one arm hang the big middle slot on the BM 2000. Proper crimp strength is down, as well as lock off strength but my ability to move between small holds and catch dynamic moves is better than it ever has been.
Thurs - A-Level results day, argh! A*AAA, mega chuffed, going to Newcastle to study Medicine.
Fri - nothing
Sat - MCC bouldering. Great session, ticked off every V6-8, 6 flashed, 4 worked, and two of the V8+, one flashed. I knew the one I flashed was super soft but I'm really pleased with the other as it was in the roof on small holds, the kind of thing I can never normally do! Very pleased.
Sun - rest, heading down to Pembroke tomorrow with E6 onsight the goal - or at least something I'll try!
Great news on the A-levels, well done!
Thanks for doing the stats again Ally. Yeah, I pigged out a bit initially, until the novelty of eating on expenses wore off a bit and I started to crave exercise more than food...
M - 10km run. Got on a plane.
T - Nothing, mostly spent on the plane.
W - Rest. (tired + jet lag)
T - UCR, hms called me out for being inside but it did rain quite hard that evening. Highlight was successfully climbing a 7a+, third try. I still feel much weaker indoors than out, but I'm closing the gap!
F - 10km run, 6x[1:30 on/3:00 off] intervals.
S - Climbing on Gower. Trad plodding, fun but I felt tired.
S - Nothing.
I think I'm still tired from travelling. 8 time zones is a lot! Hopefully I'll get back into things properly next week.
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a navigation error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 303/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
3 weeks to go: 2 in Bristol, 1 in London
Maybe I'll stick to it for more than a couple of weeks this time
Thanks Ally. It wasn't as light a week as I had intended, but was trying smaller volumes of hard stuff rather than mega-circuits. Nothing outside as partner cancelled on me for Pembroke weekend & D1 was permanently out.
M cycle commute
T cycle commute. Bloc, trying comp problems from previous week. Could do womens finals F1, F2 & F3. Got nowhere on the mens final problems.
W cycle commute
T UCR routes, 12 in singles, inc 5x6c & 3x7a. The 7as weren't clean but were interesting
F TCA, got 1 more accumulator & a couple more bonuses. Did a bunch of circuits too.
S TRX 2xcore, 2xupper, then 2xfingerboard hard set.
S UCR routes, v similar to thurs, got so near the top of 3x7a. On one of them fell off whilst wondering where the hell to clip from - on consideration, the answer is that one is supposed to run out the top!
Have booked a few days B&B mid Sept to do some stuff at Dinbren & Llanymynech. Thought they would make quite a contrasting pair! Am thinking of trying Fire as possibly the most amenable of the 7bs on offer. Dunno what to warm up on though?
Did you try the blue/black 7a on the wall by the bouldering area (not the slab)? I thought that one was great, really technical lower section.
I've been avoiding that one since I saw a local chap who climbs in the mid-8s fall off the lower bit! Ditto the mint with the stalatites on - saw a lady who is ~ a professional climber fail to get up it! Which was the 7a+ btw?
Thanks Ally. Gardening club is nearly done. Just got to finish off the patio. But that's really close. As you mentioned DIY club stuffs up your shoulder, which is why I've not done anything much over the last two weeks.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (1/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (2lbs gain)
M - T - Rest
W - Yoga
T - F - Rest
S - Trad @ Juniper Wall
S - Rest
Went to do a HVS called the Assassin. Had a big wobble at the bottom. Just couldn't pysche myself up to do the route. Climbed up the easy part. Got to the bottom of the start of the hard climbing. Put a couple of good bits of gear in. Stepped up into the first hard (well strenuous) bit. Probably stepped up and down about 6 times or so. But couldn't quite commit to doing the rest of the route. Mainly fear of trying hard and then failing. I just couldn't commit to feeling scared. The gear was amazing. There's a crack half way up the route, which provides a handhold the whole way up and loads of gear. I knew it would be hard and I knew my shoulder was still iffy, so backed off. Downclimbed the route after testing the top bit of gear. Then climbed back up and stripped the gear. Nothing physical, just mental and not wanting the route enough. It'll be there in the future. Failure is part of success, it's only my second proper HVS, so I'm really still breaking into the grade. Next year once I've got the miles in, it'll all be a bit more normal. I'm really not a good climber, so I really have to try hard.
So I just spent today getting stuff done (tm). Cleaning, laundry, shopping (Makro), climbing shop, digging up the front garden a bit more (it's being replaced with plum slate chippings), buying new work trousers, taking stuff down the charity shop. So feeling accomplished. Watching climbing vids and trying to get my psyche back. Have tweaked the trad pyramid downwards, to focus more on VS and take the pressure off doing HVS. Also been reading old fit clubs (especially the one post Roaches) and there's some excellent words of advice in them.
Goals for next week:
2 core sessions
eat sensibly each day (inc Friday)
Dinbren warm-up options:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25568 - block wobbles at the top, but some proper fatties have pulled on it without issue...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25569 - same start, no wobbly blocks
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25614 - fine when you know what you're doing, but maybe not a good warm-up unless you're used to OS'ing bouldery 6c?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=226093 - solid, slabby and techy; probably your best bet to warm-up?
Oh, I liked that minty 7a! The ~pro must have been having an off day... The 7a+ was the minty one on the same wall as the blue/black 7a. Lots of slopers, crucial heel hook to make one of the clips on the steep section.
That's brilliant - thanks. Evidently I was relying far too much on the selection in the rockfax guide, which shows nothing below 6c. No I'm definitely not used to OSing bouldery 6c!! Sounds like a good one for D1 to work though.
From what i know of friends experience, rather than my own...
Orange Robe Burning - scary to the first gear, then pumpy.
Souls - very good, but the gear is in a state.
A38? I don't think anyone has on-sighted it but Cailean came within a whisker I believe. gear supposed to be good and the line is v attractive.
ah if it's the Cailean I know (there cant be many) he's a very very strong climber, I wouldn't fancy my chances!
and cheers Ally, yeah I've heard Souls is scary! Maybe ORB though.
I've just seen your in Bristol, don't suppose you know my sister Natasha? She's at Uni there and is a climber.
Thanks for doing this again.
Steady week, ran my Boston Qualifier.. 20 mins inside so guaranteed entry..
m: am: 6.5 miles slow. pn: 6 miles slow with 2.5 miles at 5:50 pace to claim strava segment...
t: 3 miles am slow..
w: am: 5 miles steady, pm: 12 miles steady
t: 12 miles steady
f: am: 7 miles 7:50 pace. pm: 6 miles 7:30 pace
s: am: 4.1 early steady. pm: 5.5 miles 7:30
S: Chasing the unicorn marathon, Boston Qualifying is 3:10 for me so 20 minutes below is entry on the first day, ran 2:48:04, very steady run in good conditions, last 6 were still hard.. mentally a strange race running fairly hard but trying to keep it steady.
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight - Starting to frop off
get core strength and body tension back
M: Run - 24mins 3.3k
T: Swimming. 30 mins
W: Climbing station. 2 hours ish. Felt weak but managed to flash the 6b+ on the steep circuit wall.
T: Swimming 1 hour none stop.
Running 27 mins 4.3k
S: Swimming lesson. 30-40mins lengths working on technique.
Legs are feeling sore but weighed in 1kg down on last week 89.7kg
I've never met her, but we have friends in common. I don't really do that much with the uni club(s) - the odd social or indoor climbing evening, but I haven't been on any of their trips.
Incidentally, if you end up having a crack at A38, let me know. I've been pondering it as a HP for a while, so I could ab down and give it a clean for you...
STG: Red point something!
MTG: Some winter routes after a season off last year
LTG: Something in the Alps 2015 + continue sport quest
If you fancy headpointing A38 then I'd very definitely be up for it. I can even help you find it - it isn't easy to locate! Line looks brilliant & the gear is supposed to be good too - Ben West guessed it was about 7b in sports grades, but unrelenting.
Also I've just checked the logbooks and it says Cailean did manage to onsight it which makes it a *slightly* more achievable prospect!
Thanks Ally. Just about squeezed enough climbing in this week but was rubbish yesterday as was knackered from all the travel and doing races when you don’t train has consequences on movement ability!
M – Climbing Unit boulder – new red circuit (37)
T – Rest
W – Walking with Berkshire blind group – 6miles
T – 1 hour yoga/pilates
F – Bouldering Comp at Climbing Unit. Results not out yet for this round but reckon was in top 3 Senior Female.
S – Bassenthwaite Triathlon as a relay team. Run leg in 1:01 which I’ll take given it was pretty hilly and I’m fat and unfit. Team came in at under 3hours which was pleasing given first relay attempt and didn’t really care about transitions!
S – Climbing Unit green/pink circuits potter. Pretty tired.
Great, let's go for it some time.
As Ally said, Trailer Trash is probably the best warm up there as it's slabby and techy. It's just to the left of Driller Thriller (Which is rubbish) in the guide.
Next best is Resist and Exist which is all on good holds but is now slightly off putting by the big loose block.
The best 6c on the crag is Cold Turkey which is also a good warm up as it's more pumpy than cruxy.
As for 7b's, Fire has an very difficult couple of moves at the start then it's brilliant technical climbing on undercuts.
My favorite and the best 7b up there is Walking With Barrance. Awesome technical climbing with a sting in the tail finish.
One of the best routes on the crag is Technicolour Yawn (7a+).
As for Llanymynech, I've been going there a lot lately as I'm working through the routes on Red Wall, I posted about this last week and there really are some awesome routes there. My 2 favorites so far are Dead Man's Fingers (7a) and Subterranean Sidewalk (6c+/7a).
Big news – ticked the obligatory qualifying route (Chimes of Freedom) and then opened an account on Mecca…
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems :(
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Autumn 2014):
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca & Waddage, Tor
- K5, Cheedale Cornice
- Re-visit trad & try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – steady at 74.9kg & 6.6% BF, but feel a bit leaner/more powerful.
Old STG (The next 2 weeks)(Check in this week)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing. Shoulder and finger starting to feel better
- Do some aero-cap – 1 session only
- Do some fingerboarding – fail, but beastmaker installed as part of DIY epic.
- Bolt & clean the pockets to edges project – half cleaned, not sure I’ll put the effort in to finish it. Got bigger fish to fry.
- Re-bolt & repair Ecstasy at Kilnsey – not been back
- Do the Dinbren link-up project – not been back
- Get on Mecca and see what it’s like – the big fish that needs frying :-)
New STG (The next 2 weeks)(Check in this week)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing.
- Do some an-cap & aero-cap
- Do some fingerboarding.
- Do the Dinbren link-up project
- All the moves and small links on Mecca
M - Rest – moved some stuff into new house. Shoulder stability theraband session.
T - Post work Tor session. Dogged Chimes (8a+), then 3 RP’s, each improving in flow, and high point on 3rd and final go. Dropped it matching the higher crimp rail (RP crux). Very chuffed with this progress as it opens up a host of link-up possibilities. RP’d the headwall from jugs post crux (7c-ish).
W - Pre-work training psyche! Full an-cap session at Hoopla 12x long Font 7A/B link-ups. Dropped final move, of final rep of final set, so got the intensity just right! Post work decorating followed by quick shoulder stability theraband session.
T - 430 core & antagonist movements pre-work, more DIY post-work.
F - Rest – DOMS & DIY.
S - Tor. Ticked Chimes, 4th RP. First time through short Chimes (8a) went to the top. Then got on Mecca (8b+ surely you don’t need telling that!). Did 90% of the moves on the first dog, including a nice link through the kneebar section. Psyched doesn’t come close!
S - Full day DIY & gardening. Not much of a rest.
Thanks! Only one outting this week but probably the best evenings climbing I've ever had. Ally, Fancy Llanymynech either Wed or Thurs?
Only had one session this week as I chilled at the weekend on our first family camping trip to Llyn Gwynant. Little one loved it, bit of a trail run for a week's camping in Font in September!
Heading out a lot this coming week, Llanymynech this evening, then out Wed and Thurs, then off down to Swanage/Portland for bank holiday weekend. Anyone heading down that way?
T: Llanymynech - Warmed up onsighting "Dead Man's Fingers" (7a) this was by far one of the best experiances I've ever had. Did some moves/sequences I never thought i'd do onsight and it flowed really well. My pacing and rest finding is getting a lot better on these onsights.
Got on "Subterranean Sidewalk" (6c+/7a), slipped on a muddy hold right at the start went back from the deck and onsighted the whole route. Bit of a weird one ethics wise, it certainly felt harder than a flash and I guess it couldn't be called an onsight? Flonsight?!
Great session, still enjoying the Red Wall, the routes just seem to get better!
Great run of OS's at Llanymynech for you Luke.
I could do wednesday evening Aero-cap there if you fancy?
Thanks Luke. It was your glowing feedback on Llanymynech which finally propelled Me & D1 to arrange a visit to the area. We're staying near Oswestry so we can go in both directions easily. If the weather is ok, we'll have 3 days climbing so were going to do 1 day at each venue then decide which we prefered to have a second go at.
Wrt Barrance - I was just a little in doubt of my abilities on a butch route with the crux at the top!
That's great, happy that I've inspired you to go!
The place isn't probably everyone's cup of tea, I personally think the pointless runouts add to the character of the massive 30m routes, I love it, others see this as bad bolting.
The only downside of Llanymynech are the good breaks/ledges get a build up of shale as the routes get very little traffic, i've heard people saying it's rubbish because of this and it's simply not the case.
None of the routes on Red Wall are polished either!
Not much going on this last week got to TCA on monday and climbed a v4/5 overhang plus other bits and went to reading climbing centre on friday and climbed a few v4s. All in all feeling pretty strong just counting down until font!!
Thanks Ally - I certainly enjoyed an easy week last week:
W: pm 25mins jog
F: pm 30mins jog
Su: 40mins easy
Total ~14M thank-you very much! Good to have a break mentally from training but already I feel raring to get back into it which is probably a good sign.
M-6 mile run at 6:55 followed by 4 mile cool down at 7:50
T-BBC ticking off some more reds. Probably did 3 v7's relatively quickly. Also did some lock off training and core work.
W-5.2mile off road race. Finished 26/150. Not bad with a crippled knee and the long run on Monday.
T-bbc did some reds and then pull-ups and core. 120 pull-ups lock off training and hanging core
F-bbc did some reds and then pull-ups and core. 60 pull-ups. 700core movements, 10 min plank, 200 press ups.
S- bbc, did some reds, weight vest for hanging core and 25 pull-ups.
S- conies dale, new peak lime venue. O/s 3 x 7a, 7a second go, 2x 7a+ and a 7b all after a couple of goes. Not bad boulder session for about 3 hours work.
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally, Thanks, chuffed to have got it.
Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.) TICKED SOME OF THIS
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 90min MTB around red a Haldon Forest with the family
T: 120min MTB ride with one of my lads
W: 1hr off road run
T: 90min MTB ride. Chasing my mate who was riding his new cyclo-cross bike, on a ride that really suited a cyclo-cross bike, while on a long travel steel hardtail ensured a good workout!
S: 40min trail run
S: Leisurely family ride along the Cornish coast to coast route with the family followed by red lining trying to keep up with my mate on his cyclo-crosser, (again,) riding back for the cars.
No climbing, but some good and some fun sessions.
Weight: Not sure, scales would appear to be just about the only thing we didn't pack in the van for our holiday!
Well done on the onsight. Whats your max RP grade now?
Cheers pal, haven't redpointing anything hard this year so still 7b+. Was getting close on a 7c a couple of months ago so need to get stuck back into that at some point.
good luck enjoy the bank hol weekend
Apologies for the slowest update ever!
My fingers seem to be back to full health now, so I really have no excuses for not getting out and crushing! Well, apart from seemingly being as unfit as an unfit thing, but more on that later.
I didn't do one gym session last week which is shameful, I managed a core session at home on monday but that was it.
I did however go bouldering on Tuesday at my local wall and it went fantastically, after a really thorough warm up, I flashed a V5, got V5/6 in 2 goes, 3 goes to get a V6 and a V6/7, tabbed the last hold on a V7 and nearly cleaned an ungraded problem, possibly around V7/8, it couldn't have gone much better to be honest! Fingers were solid, elbows were good, it was awesome.
Move forward to Saturday, we headed to Portland full of psyche and excitement, I had visions of putting the draws in to Sign of the Vulcan and ticking it at the same time, however after some warm up climbs and boulders, I got shut down on a bouldery 6c in the new cuttings! It may have partially been down to bad route reading, it wasn't entirely clear what the exact route was, but whatever the reason, I couldn't touch it!
Then I think I got a battered by the sun, (which was making more of an appearance than BBC weather said it would) and when I got onto Vulcan I could not come even close to it. Not just the crux, but the lower section that I had previously been dispatching quickly and easily felt completely unfamiliar and impossibly hard!
I need to get my endurance back, I need to get rock fit again, and I need to remember how I did the start on Vulcan!
So, an up and down week, but good in general, I have a week off next week so training will once again go out the window due to DIY/garden club.
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