UKC

Hope to be going to this area 1/2 nd week September plan to try for the Duffourspitz ordinary route anyone got knowledge of condition at the moment any any future possible conditions
Rod

In reply to rodw:

Just got down. It is very very wintery up there. I managed to get a little frost nip on my fingers but there are firm snow conditions. The weather is pretty terrible though so it will change almost daily.

I wrote about my climb on it here:

http://digitalsteak.com/adventure/switzerland-winter-conditions-climbing-th...

It is beautiful up there, have fun!

In reply to rodw:

I heard that the huts around Rosa (gnifetti and MRH I guess) are shutting in the first couple of days in Sept. Might be prudent to check or take bivouac gear.

In reply to rodw:

Was at the Margaretta (sp) Hut on 21st, and the conditions where very windy, and consequently VERY cold.

Did the monte rosa traverse, and we only had to abort one peak due to weather, being Pollux, at the start of the week. Breakfast at 4am then back to bed as it was snowing.

Snow was generally in good condition, IMHO.

Will try the Dufourspitze this week, so will see how conditions have changed.

In reply to rodw:

Did the Dom 4545m, but did not go near the Dufourspitze later in the week, as the guide considered the conditions wrong

Did the Lagginhorn as this was 90% likely, as opposed to only 10% for the Dufourspitze.

Will have to try the Dufourspitze in another year

Might have to do the Dom again too, as was very misty (whiteout) on top third of the mountain.

But the Festigrat looks worthwhile on the Dom

In reply to rodw:

Excellent conditions in the area at the moment - a snowy summer has left a much better than normal autumn. Good cover on glaciers. Weather looks promising next week, fingers crossed.

In reply to rodw:

my mate texted me from the monte rosa hut last night having just done breithorn castor pollux and monte rosa over four days and of course staying up high. great conditions apparently but i will post more info after i see him tomorrow.

In reply to manumartin:

Did you get any updates from your mate? Off in a couple of weeks so keen for reports.

In reply to rodw:

Not really a great deal to add to what has already been said, very good conditions on glaciers, no avalanches noticed and very firm early morning neve making ascents more pleasurable. Huts of course were fairly busy due to good mountain conditions but no problem booking places.