UKC

Can anybody point me in the direction of route information on The Long Climb, at Ben Nevis? I've got Classic Rock, the relevant SMC guide/s and Scottish Rock, but the route descriptions and the topos seem a tad wanting for a route of this length and complexity. Belts and braces perhaps but given the stories I keep hearing of "off route adventures"...

In reply to ozandrew:

Haha! You're right, 420m, not a single note.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=556

In reply to ozandrew:

JH Bell's book A progress in mountaineering has a detailed topo of the orion face, showing all the variations. ( I think there are 27, so no wonder people get confused) IIRC the line described takes in the best and hardest pitches on the way to the top, so i'd suggest that if you start at the bottom and get to the top, then that's the route!

In reply to ozandrew:

When I did it things started badly: there was so much snow banked up [in July] that it took me a while to realise that I'd started close to the top of the first pitch.

No problems once I'd sorted that out. Assuming viz is good enough you can see where you're heading............

It's a great adventure.!

In reply to ozandrew:

To be honest. I can't see why people get lost,using a little mountain sense, I soloed this onsight, a few years ago and it was all pretty obvious, just follow the major features, such as the parallel cracks of the first rib, the basin, second slab rib, by the crest etc.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

I got completely lost. It was wet and manky, poorly protected, and graded Severe in those days. I was happy to escape on to NE Buttress.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

Because not everyone is such the rock warrior that you obviously are. Stop being such a tool, of course it's entirely understandable that people get lost on it.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Like I said Andy, you should have used a little mountain sense hehe!, fine in the dry, I really enjoyed the whole experience.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:


It was dry weather, and still wet.

In reply to ozandrew:

I know Scottish Rock topo is way off the mark, too far left.
I think the SMC Ben Nevis guide is adequate.
First 60m scramble is probably mostly still covered up.
First slab rib side wall to the left is speckled white, I've seen 2 teams on separate occasions miss the slab and go underneath this side wall.
After that a long rightwards diagonal traverse gains the foot of the second slab rib which can be seen from below.
After that pitch trend diagonally left over more mossy rock towards the 40ft corner on NE buttress, top section open to variation.
I'll dig out a photo and make up a topo tonight.
Capt.

In reply to Captain Solo:

That would be brilliant!!!

In reply to ozandrew:

I will email you topos, anyone else wanting one I'll do likewise.
Don't want to spoil the surprise for everyone!

In reply to Captain Solo:

Slap it in your gallery Captain.

In reply to ozandrew:

I'd want a drought prior to getting on this, and visibility to John o'Groats.

In reply to Colin Moody:

photos uploaded

In reply to Merlin:


I will put a description on ukc logbook cos that's the sort of guy I am (an anorak not altruistic!)

In reply to ozandrew:

Hi

Wouldn't bother over rated....do minus one direct. Wandering choss for the last 4/5 pitches.

In reply to beds74:

Might not be an option if you only climb up to VS.
I read your comments in the logbooks and can only assume you were off route and in the wet?
If the optimum line is taken on a good day and in dry conditions it is a great day out.
I know its only an opinion but I found it to be an absorbing experience anyway.