UKC

Morning,
Has anyone done Red Shift on Red Wall recently? Did a route in that area on Saturday. that was covered in chalk. We went too far left looking for Wendigo.

The climbing from a belay stated up a pillar then a very hard sequence of moves into a hanging, square cut groove with a peg at the bottom. Got the peg clipped then another very hard sequence to get established in the groove and a slight rest. I could see a block type hold higher up but that was sloping off in all directions. Got established above the sloping block then it eased a bit.
Continued up the groove with a very hard move out right at the top to a ledge. Then back left to another groove (no gear) to the top.

I’m not sure if we did Red Shift or Khmer Rouge. Red Shift had an accent on Friday so that would explain all the chalk. But the groove I climbed is more like the Khmer Rouge description.
Any ideas? Thanks

In reply to PaulTanton:
Done Redshift twice although not recently. Your description does not sound like my memory of it. Differences: The start of Redshift p2 is more of a wall than a pillar, you move R then back L to get into the groove, which you did not mention, you enter the groove just above its base, I don't remember any pegs in the groove.

In reply to PaulTanton:

I vaguely remember reading of a rockfall in that general area which may have altered things a bit. I think it was to the right of RW though.

In reply to harold walmsley:

Thanks Harold. The pillar at the start is a detached flake that you can see through the back of. From the top of it I made the moves up then left to reach the very bottom of the groove and clipped the peg. The climbing felt harder than 5c as Red Shift states. But people have commented that it’s worth E4.

In reply to davidbeynon:

We need the New Gogarth South guide.

In reply to PaulTanton:

Now I read in detail I think we are talking about different red walls

In reply to PaulTanton:

A quote from 11th August 2014 from Ground Up "...Gogarth South, the sister guide to Gogarth North. Production work on this is in the ¡¥final furlong¡¦. The test pages look stunning and the guide includes hundreds of new routes and entirely new sections of cliff, particularly in places such as The Range..."

In reply to PaulTanton: What was Mantrap like?

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Mantrap??? Absolutely awesome for want of a better phrase. Tough climbing in a scary situation. Some of the gear is good but you have to work at it. The moves into the start of the chimney are hard but Connor found an easier sequence. Once in the chimney you feel secure. Moving up it a battle. I got to a point where it narrows down and pulled out onto the left wall. This is very steep but you get some good gear. The moves up the wall are good 5c I’d say.
The top pitch is more open and less steep but with some crap rock as you get higher. Tricky to know what to pull on in the last section.
I’m not keen to recommend it as as it is serious. The belays are good. Take lots of middle to large cams and slings.

In reply to Martin Haworth:


Pigs might fly.

In reply to PaulTanton:

Hello Paul - just to clarify, guess you mean went too far left at foot of routes looking for start of Wendigo (as opposed to climbing too far L into Wendigo). Your description does sound like Redshift to me - with hard moves into a hanging corner and further up, hard moves out right to ledge - if correct this would be the sloping belay ledge of Wendigo. From here Red Shift top pitch takes the groove up left.
Many years since I did it so cant be absolutely sure. Also seem to remember a hanging groove on Television Route - which is a bit further left again.
Last year I took a good photo of red wall and marked most of the routes (did B.R.Hills at the time) which may be useful till the G.U. guide is out (along with the flying pigs) - also have a photo of a guy on first pitch of Redshift taken 2 weeks ago. Can send to you if you like.

In reply to steveb2006:

Hi Steve thanks for your reply.
I keep thinking it could be Red Shift but there was a peg at the very bottom of the groove. The groove was right facing and very square cut and bottomless. I climbed the wall directly below the groove, hard, till I could clip the peg. then some hard moves up into the bottomless groove.

In the description of Red Shift it doesn’t mention a peg and talks about a ledge on the left. I didn't come across any ledge on the left just the aret of the groove. I did come to a ledge on the right but was close to the top so didn't bother looking for a belay.
I’m going to go back over to Gogarth this week and search out Wendigo. Things might make some sense then. I know the 1990/2000 guide is a bit vague with descriptions.

I’d like to see the Red Wall photo Steve. I will send you a PM with my email address.

In reply to PaulTanton:
Have a look at this; http://gogarth.wikifoundry.com/page/right+hand+red+walls

In reply to dr evil:

Thanks,
I dont remember any of the Red Shift description. Maybe Blood Bath?

In reply to dr evil:

The start of Red Wall Escape route and Wendigo is confusing. Do you start from the Red Wall starting point? The description for Wendigo and RWER cross reference each other. I hope the new guide sorts this out.

In reply to PaulTanton: Hi Paul - will send photos. Are you using old CC guide? The Wendigo description, in my opinion, is a bit ridiculous, as there seems little point in starting from Red Wall (in 4 pitches!). This just takes you up, left, and back down to same level you started at. It is more logical to start on the grass ledges further left (the old description describes all the approaches from the left anyway along the rising grassy ledge system - as you abbed from promontory on left - if you have 70m+ abb rope you can abb directly to RW stance or Wendigo further L). The Ground Up North Wales Rock has much better descriptions (though doesnt include Khmer Rouge). RWER starts from Wendigo (logical) start and goes up L to gain higher grassy ledge system (not done it myself).