In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to galpinos)
>
> You might well be a better climber by turning all your fingerboard sessions into climbing sessions, but that doesn't mean it's optimal.
If I'm trying to get better at climbing and I end up as a better climber, it sounds pretty optimal to me! (I realise I’m being a bit facetious here…..)
> Finger boarding and training generally are a great supplement, and everybody I speak to who has tried it has seen the benefit in their climbing. I think the main thing is to get the balance right.
Great as a supplement yes, but the need to supplement only comes if you're climbing enough. At the grades of the routes in the OPs logbook, he'd be better climbing and bouldering than fingerboarding.
> But the OP was asking specifically about hand/finger/forename strength gains, I don't know how balanced his training is so I couldn't comment. But I can't see any reason why isolated training of those attributes would produce worse results than bouldering or routes (especially routes).
It wouldn't produce worse results in gains in strength, but he wouldn't get any of the other benefits, i.e. movement skills, reading the rock, the added confidence of familiarity.
I got to Font 7B though bouldering alone. Admittedly they were all on grit (luck based scrittle etc) but the additional gains other than pure strength made by bouldering inside and out are what got me up them, not having strong fingers.
If he’s into routing, I’d say fingerboarding isn’t really warranted until you’re in the Tech 6b/c range, i.e. E5 and up.