UKC

Can anyone point out any thin finger cracks that I can do to practise for serenity crack in yosemite? I guess it's either top end E2 5c or bottom end E3 6a?

I've got wide fingers so really struggle on the thinner sizes but find the bigger sizes cruiser

Done the classic finger cracks in Squamish, rainy day, exasperator, seasoned

So far I've got:
Embankment 1 P2
Right hand crack of Embankment 2
Coventry street
Orangutan
Supra direct
Detour
Gomorrah

Thanks

In reply to ashtond6:

Just do more of the same, the hard bit is short and sharp I recall, a couple of stiffer cranks amongst some reasonable finger locks. Very well protected. The other 95% is straightforward by comparison.

Regards,

Steve

In reply to SteveSBlake:

+ 1.
The hard bit does not last but from memory was rather narrow. If you have sausage fingers could be worth practicing tip laybacks? It would make it harder then the grade mind!

In reply to OP:
Use your feet.
Not E2/E3, 5.10d.
Do Sons ...
Steve

In reply to ashtond6:

Haven't done cov st yet, keep failing the last move!

Are the locks on serenity good but the feet crap? Or crap feet and crap locks?!

Deffo want sons!

In reply to ashtond6:

The locks go tighter as in first joints of fingers as opposed to whole fingers/hand, the feet go crapper and it steepens up for about 2/3m.

This pitch is about E3 on it's own. The Embankment routes won't prepare you for this crux section at all.

E

In reply to ashtond6:

If you can find some boulder problems with thin finger moves that would probably be good prep. There's only a few metres of difficult climbing on Serenity.

In reply to ashtond6:

their are 2 cruxs the one where u can break ankles on hammered out pin scars. probably e2 5b. above on p3 is 2 or 3 5c move sequence.

climb everything u can at millstone and get yourself to cookie cliff and five and dime cliff for a "warm up" when u get there. climb the 5.10 s there and you'll be fine on serenity. sons is a cruise to the top. enjoy and buy c3 or similar and v tight sportiva mythos

In reply to ashtond6:

also do reps of the embankment routes and aim for 10 hvs or e1/2 pitchs. yosemite is about fitness and technique.

In reply to Enty:

Any ideas of what will? E3s at millstone don't really seem to fit the bill

Can only think of cave crack, start of great peter, finger locking good

Alastair, thanks- been working on that. Currently doing about 10 pitches per day E1/2 at millstone

Any 5.10s at cookie in particular?