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Hello,
Just wondering if there are any E1s in Cornwall that were good for breaking in to the grade? Haven't done much down there so any info would be appreciated. Cheers.
Russ.
Just wondering if there are any E1s in Cornwall that were good for breaking in to the grade? Haven't done much down there so any info would be appreciated. Cheers.
Russ.
In reply to R2B:
I haven't climbed a lot down there but Astral Stroll might be good. Its a classic, definitely E1 so you get a proper tick, not dangerous and if things go wrong its a jump and a short swim to safety!
If you want a brilliant place for HVS's then Kendijack is worth going to even though they are only single pitches. There is an E1 there, Saxon, but I thought that was pretty hard.
mike
I haven't climbed a lot down there but Astral Stroll might be good. Its a classic, definitely E1 so you get a proper tick, not dangerous and if things go wrong its a jump and a short swim to safety!
If you want a brilliant place for HVS's then Kendijack is worth going to even though they are only single pitches. There is an E1 there, Saxon, but I thought that was pretty hard.
mike
In reply to R2B:
To be boringly conventional, I'd say Bishop's Rib is pretty OK as a first Cornwall E1. Protection is not so good on the first pitch (smallish wires iirc) but OK where you need it, and after that it's sheer joy. I don't remember much about the climbing, so it can't have been too bad for the grade, but I do remember it as exceptionally good, with a very friendly ambience. The upper reaches are superb.
To be boringly conventional, I'd say Bishop's Rib is pretty OK as a first Cornwall E1. Protection is not so good on the first pitch (smallish wires iirc) but OK where you need it, and after that it's sheer joy. I don't remember much about the climbing, so it can't have been too bad for the grade, but I do remember it as exceptionally good, with a very friendly ambience. The upper reaches are superb.
In reply to mike lawrence?:
Yeah? I thought it was top end of the grade - in fact very similar to The Moon, which gets E3.
Saxon's the HVS, Rock Dancer the E1 is great but a bit bold. Superb crag for the HVS/E1 climber though, stunning wall climbs on positive holds.
> I haven't climbed a lot down there but Astral Stroll might be good. Its a classic, definitely E1 so you get a proper tick, not dangerous and if things go wrong its a jump and a short swim to safety!
Yeah? I thought it was top end of the grade - in fact very similar to The Moon, which gets E3.
> If you want a brilliant place for HVS's then Kendijack is worth going to even though they are only single pitches. There is an E1 there, Saxon, but I thought that was pretty hard.
Saxon's the HVS, Rock Dancer the E1 is great but a bit bold. Superb crag for the HVS/E1 climber though, stunning wall climbs on positive holds.
In reply to mike lawrence?:
The guide puts it at the top of the graded list.
> I haven't climbed a lot down there but Astral Stroll might be good. Its a classic, definitely E1 so you get a proper tick, not dangerous and if things go wrong its a jump and a short swim to safety!
The guide puts it at the top of the graded list.
In reply to R2B:
Bishops Rib. It even drys quickly at the bottom now since the rock fall has removed the buttress that sheltered it from sun and wind.
Bishops Rib. It even drys quickly at the bottom now since the rock fall has removed the buttress that sheltered it from sun and wind.
In reply to mike lawrence?:
I would say Astral Stroll is committing, intimidating and dangerous (for leader and second). Not a good first E1.
I would say to the OP, stick to a single pitch route that doesn't require abseil, if you can find a good one. Sorry, but I don't have a specific suggestion.
I would say Astral Stroll is committing, intimidating and dangerous (for leader and second). Not a good first E1.
I would say to the OP, stick to a single pitch route that doesn't require abseil, if you can find a good one. Sorry, but I don't have a specific suggestion.
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Astral stroll escape plan I'm not sure about. Wild day when I did it and found it committing and quite hard.
Rock dancer if you are steady and good with protecting routes as well as the rock allows. Saxon great as a warm up/runner up prize.
Chlorophyll cluster and American dream are both brilliant and well protected but pumpy and no softies. Don't bother with suicide wall, it's shit. Bishops rib probably best one to go for first.
Astral stroll escape plan I'm not sure about. Wild day when I did it and found it committing and quite hard.
Rock dancer if you are steady and good with protecting routes as well as the rock allows. Saxon great as a warm up/runner up prize.
Chlorophyll cluster and American dream are both brilliant and well protected but pumpy and no softies. Don't bother with suicide wall, it's shit. Bishops rib probably best one to go for first.
In reply to R2B:
That's a tough one. I have never found many soft touches at any grade in Cornwall!
Saying that Rockdancer is easy E1 and the 2 pitch route to its right (Shield?) is also OK.
Also, lots of one pitch slab routes at this grade just north of Bude that are very nice....
That's a tough one. I have never found many soft touches at any grade in Cornwall!
Saying that Rockdancer is easy E1 and the 2 pitch route to its right (Shield?) is also OK.
Also, lots of one pitch slab routes at this grade just north of Bude that are very nice....
In reply to R2B:
Really??!! Bishops rib!? Necky low down with fiddly gear plus an awkward place to get out of if you break your ankles?
What about Dialectic at Carn barra? One awkward 5b sequence to easy jug pulling. HVS in some guides
Although it is the easiest route out! I found the Vs escape no easier than fourteen fathoms!
Really??!! Bishops rib!? Necky low down with fiddly gear plus an awkward place to get out of if you break your ankles?
What about Dialectic at Carn barra? One awkward 5b sequence to easy jug pulling. HVS in some guides
Although it is the easiest route out! I found the Vs escape no easier than fourteen fathoms!
Post edited at 21:49
In reply to R2B:
The Banner Variation at Trewavas. You climb the first half of a HVS called William's Chimney (slightly bold, 5a, slabby); then break out steeply left for a short 5b sequence to clear an overhang. The hard moves are very well protected, and there's empty space to bounce into if you fluff it. Exciting, but safe.
The Banner Variation at Trewavas. You climb the first half of a HVS called William's Chimney (slightly bold, 5a, slabby); then break out steeply left for a short 5b sequence to clear an overhang. The hard moves are very well protected, and there's empty space to bounce into if you fluff it. Exciting, but safe.
In reply to R2B:
Bishop's Rib direct start. Small gear, gets E2 in the guide, but isn't at all. Nowhere near as necky as the normal start.
At St Loy, do Monochrome Men, easy E1, then Chlorophyl Cluster harder but very well protected E1. Similar routes, but CC is about 3 times as long as MM.
Waltzing Matilda for a recently upgraded, very good and very well protected HVS/E1.
Bishop's Rib direct start. Small gear, gets E2 in the guide, but isn't at all. Nowhere near as necky as the normal start.
At St Loy, do Monochrome Men, easy E1, then Chlorophyl Cluster harder but very well protected E1. Similar routes, but CC is about 3 times as long as MM.
Waltzing Matilda for a recently upgraded, very good and very well protected HVS/E1.
In reply to Tom Last:
Agree completely.
> Bishop's Rib direct start. Small gear, gets E2 in the guide, but isn't at all. Nowhere near as necky as the normal start.
Agree completely.
In reply to Owen W-G:
I know, "Just jump into the sea - job's a good'un". I can't imagine anything more harrowing personally, not to mention losing an entire rack!
Harsh! I thought it was a good route, but the crux was nasty - 5c with poky gear right above a ledge. Bosi is just one massive sandbag, I'd add a grade onto everything there. Bow Wall at 5b and Raven Wall at 5c are just absolutely ludicrous - stingy Cornish bastards.
> Astral stroll escape plan I'm not sure about.
I know, "Just jump into the sea - job's a good'un". I can't imagine anything more harrowing personally, not to mention losing an entire rack!
> Don't bother with suicide wall, it's shit.
Harsh! I thought it was a good route, but the crux was nasty - 5c with poky gear right above a ledge. Bosi is just one massive sandbag, I'd add a grade onto everything there. Bow Wall at 5b and Raven Wall at 5c are just absolutely ludicrous - stingy Cornish bastards.
In reply to bpmclimb:
Maybe years ago, when I did it (I think c.1977 - haven't looked it up in log book), we did the direct start. Because I don't remember it being in any way indirect. Just went straight up to the first stance. Seemed fine. Technically a bit tricky but OK gear, just. That's my memory.
Maybe years ago, when I did it (I think c.1977 - haven't looked it up in log book), we did the direct start. Because I don't remember it being in any way indirect. Just went straight up to the first stance. Seemed fine. Technically a bit tricky but OK gear, just. That's my memory.
In reply to R2B:
If you're in the vicinity of Chair Ladder, then there are a few E1s to look at, at Carn Barra. Dialectic is a good start, and don't discount the routes either side if you want to push into relatively safe, soft-touch E2s. There was a classic E1 in Crack in the Sky, but there appears to have been a rockfall. Anybody been on it since? A great shame, as that would have been a shoe-in for your list.
Also, a random bit of esoterica on Porth Loe, which is just over from Chair Ladder, in The Beak. Bit of a one-move wonder over a weirdly featured roof and a scruffy licheny finish, but safe as houses and a tick.
Other than that, I'd also second St Loy. You can park at the Treverven campsite for a couple of quid, which cuts the walk-in down to mere minutes, and there's a raft of decent single-pitch routes, all on flat ground. Definitely look up Sabre Cut - short, but great technical moves on good gear and a slab to boot.
Martin
Ps Astral Stroll is brilliant, of course, and changes in the upper pitches every year so it's never boring, but it's not your archetypal introduction to E1. But if you're in the area for, say, Right Angle, then the corner of Shark is a hidden gem at E1. You need lowish tide or you might need to belay off the ab rope - but the upside is you have a rope hanging next to the route.
If you're in the vicinity of Chair Ladder, then there are a few E1s to look at, at Carn Barra. Dialectic is a good start, and don't discount the routes either side if you want to push into relatively safe, soft-touch E2s. There was a classic E1 in Crack in the Sky, but there appears to have been a rockfall. Anybody been on it since? A great shame, as that would have been a shoe-in for your list.
Also, a random bit of esoterica on Porth Loe, which is just over from Chair Ladder, in The Beak. Bit of a one-move wonder over a weirdly featured roof and a scruffy licheny finish, but safe as houses and a tick.
Other than that, I'd also second St Loy. You can park at the Treverven campsite for a couple of quid, which cuts the walk-in down to mere minutes, and there's a raft of decent single-pitch routes, all on flat ground. Definitely look up Sabre Cut - short, but great technical moves on good gear and a slab to boot.
Martin
Ps Astral Stroll is brilliant, of course, and changes in the upper pitches every year so it's never boring, but it's not your archetypal introduction to E1. But if you're in the area for, say, Right Angle, then the corner of Shark is a hidden gem at E1. You need lowish tide or you might need to belay off the ab rope - but the upside is you have a rope hanging next to the route.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I thought Suicide Wall was excellent. The coal face traverse is excellent, the next traverse pitch is just as good, the crux is demanding for both leader and belayer (isn't polished 5c with suspect gear and a potential fall onto the belay, or onto a ledge, a bit much for E1), and the 5a finish is entertaining (but short lived). Not a good first E1, probably best done when you can lead E2.
> Harsh! I thought it was a good route
I thought Suicide Wall was excellent. The coal face traverse is excellent, the next traverse pitch is just as good, the crux is demanding for both leader and belayer (isn't polished 5c with suspect gear and a potential fall onto the belay, or onto a ledge, a bit much for E1), and the 5a finish is entertaining (but short lived). Not a good first E1, probably best done when you can lead E2.
In reply to R2B:
My first E1 of all time was Suicide Wall at Bosy. First pitch is straightforward and then the crux pitch is the second traverse pitch which is fine as long as you hold your nerve. The third pitch is the technical crux but it is reasonable to aid this at the grade. Once that is done, it is clear climbing to the top.
My first E1 of all time was Suicide Wall at Bosy. First pitch is straightforward and then the crux pitch is the second traverse pitch which is fine as long as you hold your nerve. The third pitch is the technical crux but it is reasonable to aid this at the grade. Once that is done, it is clear climbing to the top.
In reply to ByEek:
Gallipoli on the side of Bosi ridge is maybe a good candidate. A hard but well protected crux and it's just a short single pitch. Dialectic as mentioned above is another good recommendation.
I did Shark recently and thought the top part (breaking out right from the corner) would be pretty intimidating for a first E1?
Not convinced by the recommendations of astral stroll and suicide wall as first contenders!
Gallipoli on the side of Bosi ridge is maybe a good candidate. A hard but well protected crux and it's just a short single pitch. Dialectic as mentioned above is another good recommendation.
I did Shark recently and thought the top part (breaking out right from the corner) would be pretty intimidating for a first E1?
Not convinced by the recommendations of astral stroll and suicide wall as first contenders!
Post edited at 10:17
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Oh gawd maybe I am turning into John Cox and suggesting ludicrous escape options. Saying that I thought the hard bit of Astral Stroll was the couple of moves along the traverse which is just above the water so quite safe. A bizarre comment about The Moon, you must have been going well on it to think they are similar. All the E1s I've done at Bosigran (well all 2 anyway) have been much harder and much more serious, though requiring less commitment. I'd avoid the whole cliff for entry level E1s.
mike
Oh gawd maybe I am turning into John Cox and suggesting ludicrous escape options. Saying that I thought the hard bit of Astral Stroll was the couple of moves along the traverse which is just above the water so quite safe. A bizarre comment about The Moon, you must have been going well on it to think they are similar. All the E1s I've done at Bosigran (well all 2 anyway) have been much harder and much more serious, though requiring less commitment. I'd avoid the whole cliff for entry level E1s.
mike
In reply to cornishben:
True, but they were the days when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous.
> Not convinced by the recommendations of astral stroll and suicide wall as first contenders!
True, but they were the days when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous.
In reply to R2B:
Personally I'd have said Bishops Rib. It's spot on E1, its a brilliant route with great moves and there is good gear (small wires pitch 1, pitch 2 is a jug fest).
IMO far more worth while than the St Loy routes.
IIn general, I don't think classic areas like Bosi or Sennen are great for E1s - my favourite is Thin Wall Special but its not really one to remember as a 'first' E1
Astrall stroll is a bugger to find the start and will feel like a lonely lead for a first E1.
At Kenijack, Rock Dancer would feel quite necky IMO. The big corner to the right (Thane ?) is OK but very sustained bridgeing
Personally I'd have said Bishops Rib. It's spot on E1, its a brilliant route with great moves and there is good gear (small wires pitch 1, pitch 2 is a jug fest).
IMO far more worth while than the St Loy routes.
IIn general, I don't think classic areas like Bosi or Sennen are great for E1s - my favourite is Thin Wall Special but its not really one to remember as a 'first' E1
Astrall stroll is a bugger to find the start and will feel like a lonely lead for a first E1.
At Kenijack, Rock Dancer would feel quite necky IMO. The big corner to the right (Thane ?) is OK but very sustained bridgeing
In reply to ByEek:
If you aid the third pitch can you claim the E1? I'm not sure if you're recommending it or not.
If you aid the third pitch can you claim the E1? I'm not sure if you're recommending it or not.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
I think you can still claim E1. The aid pitch in my rather old Bosy guide was 5c and in 1997 was exceedingly polished and rounded holds. It would be a challenge even if it was just a boulder problem and I certainly couldn't see a way to climb it.
If I remember rightly, I clipped a sling and stood in it. This enabled me to get a friend in and haul myself up onto the slab. My gear pinged once and I landed on the ledge. Certainly not a pushover but jolly rewarding when done.
I think you can still claim E1. The aid pitch in my rather old Bosy guide was 5c and in 1997 was exceedingly polished and rounded holds. It would be a challenge even if it was just a boulder problem and I certainly couldn't see a way to climb it.
If I remember rightly, I clipped a sling and stood in it. This enabled me to get a friend in and haul myself up onto the slab. My gear pinged once and I landed on the ledge. Certainly not a pushover but jolly rewarding when done.
In reply to ByEek:
Might not be a good first E1 then, unless you like aid climbing or combined tactics?
I does seem hard for E1 if done free, which we did (and I was very happy to be seconding that pitch). Although I have done a harder E1 crux it was next to bomber gear with a clean fall.
Might not be a good first E1 then, unless you like aid climbing or combined tactics?
I does seem hard for E1 if done free, which we did (and I was very happy to be seconding that pitch). Although I have done a harder E1 crux it was next to bomber gear with a clean fall.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Perhaps. I think it depends on the climber. I did it when I was a fearless yoof which probably helped. My naivety at the time probably got me through most problems.
> Might not be a good first E1 then, unless you like aid climbing or combined tactics?
Perhaps. I think it depends on the climber. I did it when I was a fearless yoof which probably helped. My naivety at the time probably got me through most problems.
In reply to mike lawrence?:
When I did the Astral Stroll traverse there were thunderous waves coming in below me. Escape into the water was not an attractive option.
When I did the Astral Stroll traverse there were thunderous waves coming in below me. Escape into the water was not an attractive option.
In reply to maisie:
I wondered whether the gear in sabrecut would hold as its quite a shallow crack. The e1 next to it is quite a soft touch afaicr. The crux of st loy routes is avoiding Being bitten by the dog at the treverven farm place!! The only soft touch i can think of is lord falmouth at roche
> Other than that, I'd also second St Loy. You can park at the Treverven campsite for a couple of quid, which cuts the walk-in down to mere minutes, and there's a raft of decent single-pitch routes, all on flat ground. Definitely look up Sabre Cut - short, but great technical moves on good gear and a slab to boot.
> Martin
I wondered whether the gear in sabrecut would hold as its quite a shallow crack. The e1 next to it is quite a soft touch afaicr. The crux of st loy routes is avoiding Being bitten by the dog at the treverven farm place!! The only soft touch i can think of is lord falmouth at roche
In reply to R2B:
If your looking for soft touch E1's, Cornwall is probably not the right place. Embrace the adventure and just go for it!
Smile isn't to bad and was brilliant in terms of positions I thought. Once you commit to the first couple of moves Else Dialectric or chlorophyll cluster (as mentioned) would get my vote. Then again, maybe you should find a loose woman if you fancy a good route, even if it is a little scary at the easy bit.
If your looking for soft touch E1's, Cornwall is probably not the right place. Embrace the adventure and just go for it!
Smile isn't to bad and was brilliant in terms of positions I thought. Once you commit to the first couple of moves Else Dialectric or chlorophyll cluster (as mentioned) would get my vote. Then again, maybe you should find a loose woman if you fancy a good route, even if it is a little scary at the easy bit.
In reply to R2B:
Did Suicide Wall last Monday - great route but not a great first E1 as it's pretty high in the grade.
Did Suicide Wall last Monday - great route but not a great first E1 as it's pretty high in the grade.
In reply to GrahamD:
Thane was my first E1! Quite long, well sustained, takes loads of gear, and plenty of small gear if I remember right. A touch run out in places but nothing notable. Couldn't find a great belay at the top, but I may have just been over-excited. Excellent route though
Thane was my first E1! Quite long, well sustained, takes loads of gear, and plenty of small gear if I remember right. A touch run out in places but nothing notable. Couldn't find a great belay at the top, but I may have just been over-excited. Excellent route though
In reply to Exile:
Desperate crux and I took a nasty fall first time I tried it.
> Did Suicide Wall last Monday - great route but not a great first E1 as it's pretty high in the grade.
Desperate crux and I took a nasty fall first time I tried it.
In reply to Chris H:
The only soft touch i can think of is lord falmouth at roche
So soft it's HVS 5a nowadays. To be honest, it's pretty soft even at that. Top end VS 5a really. Bomber gear. 1 5a move right next to the bomber gear, then about vdiff to the top.
The only soft touch i can think of is lord falmouth at roche
So soft it's HVS 5a nowadays. To be honest, it's pretty soft even at that. Top end VS 5a really. Bomber gear. 1 5a move right next to the bomber gear, then about vdiff to the top.
In reply to R2B:
Has anyone mentioned Thin Wall Special at Bosigran? I seem to recall it's not too hard, is escapable after the first pitch but still stays remains independent. IMO it's a very good route.
Has anyone mentioned Thin Wall Special at Bosigran? I seem to recall it's not too hard, is escapable after the first pitch but still stays remains independent. IMO it's a very good route.
In reply to GridNorth:
I may have been having a bad day but I thought this was desperate - awkward to protect well low down and the crux was hideously hard for 5b - the footholds are like glass. More than a full grade harder than Bishop's Rib or Excelsior which we did the next day with no trouble.
I may have been having a bad day but I thought this was desperate - awkward to protect well low down and the crux was hideously hard for 5b - the footholds are like glass. More than a full grade harder than Bishop's Rib or Excelsior which we did the next day with no trouble.
In reply to Pagan:
It's many years since I last did it but I thought it was benchmark E1. Having said that, the first pitch is the style of climbing I love and I don't recall any polish.
It's many years since I last did it but I thought it was benchmark E1. Having said that, the first pitch is the style of climbing I love and I don't recall any polish.
In reply to Pagan:
It is absolutely desperate. The top "5a" pitch is a laugh too. You don't go to Bosi to push your grade, everything's a total sandbag.
> I may have been having a bad day but I thought this was desperate - awkward to protect well low down and the crux was hideously hard for 5b - the footholds are like glass. More than a full grade harder than Bishop's Rib or Excelsior which we did the next day with no trouble.
It is absolutely desperate. The top "5a" pitch is a laugh too. You don't go to Bosi to push your grade, everything's a total sandbag.
In reply to bpmclimb:
That was my first E1 lead - well protected, excellent route. Climbed it a couple of times since. A great one for building confidence
> The Banner Variation at Trewavas. You climb the first half of a HVS called William's Chimney (slightly bold, 5a, slabby); then break out steeply left for a short 5b sequence to clear an overhang. The hard moves are very well protected, and there's empty space to bounce into if you fluff it. Exciting, but safe.
That was my first E1 lead - well protected, excellent route. Climbed it a couple of times since. A great one for building confidence
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
I think they're OK if you remember to add 1 to everything.
The ultimate sandbag is Dream Liberator and E3 6a. It's more like hard E4 6b, and one of the most committing routes I've ever done! Incredible stuff. Bow Wall might be E2, but it ain't 5b by any stretch of the imagination, Raven Wall 5c my eye, Kafoozalem E3 I think not, etc etc.
> I always thought Cornish grades OK if you acclimatise first.
I think they're OK if you remember to add 1 to everything.
The ultimate sandbag is Dream Liberator and E3 6a. It's more like hard E4 6b, and one of the most committing routes I've ever done! Incredible stuff. Bow Wall might be E2, but it ain't 5b by any stretch of the imagination, Raven Wall 5c my eye, Kafoozalem E3 I think not, etc etc.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I hope you are wrong about Dream/Liberator. I still have hopes of doing that one day and while I can see myself touching the E3 6a grade E4 6b is outside of my hopes.
I've done Kafoozalem and found it similarly hard to Interrogation, which I did on the way down to Cornwall, at the time I was doing a few E3 test pieces in the Peak and Wales, and thought it was in that league. Bow Wall I thought fine, not very technical, but I am quite tall so maybe it suited me. I Did Bishop's Rib recently and it seemed fine at the grade but nowhere near as hard as the HVS I did the previous day!
I hope you are wrong about Dream/Liberator. I still have hopes of doing that one day and while I can see myself touching the E3 6a grade E4 6b is outside of my hopes.
I've done Kafoozalem and found it similarly hard to Interrogation, which I did on the way down to Cornwall, at the time I was doing a few E3 test pieces in the Peak and Wales, and thought it was in that league. Bow Wall I thought fine, not very technical, but I am quite tall so maybe it suited me. I Did Bishop's Rib recently and it seemed fine at the grade but nowhere near as hard as the HVS I did the previous day!
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Possibly just getting too used to Pembroke give away grades ?
> I think they're OK if you remember to add 1 to everything.
Possibly just getting too used to Pembroke give away grades ?
In reply to GrahamD:
More that I'm just absolutely terrible at climbing granite. I did fine on Mastodon (well, a little bit of jibbering, but E3 is my top grade pretty much) and seconded Darkinbad OK. But really struggled on the all the granite. A lot of it's pretty horrible though, lacking in either holds or friction.
> Possibly just getting too used to Pembroke give away grades ?
More that I'm just absolutely terrible at climbing granite. I did fine on Mastodon (well, a little bit of jibbering, but E3 is my top grade pretty much) and seconded Darkinbad OK. But really struggled on the all the granite. A lot of it's pretty horrible though, lacking in either holds or friction.
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Bad luck:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=596069
> I hope you are wrong about Dream/Liberator.
Bad luck:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=596069
In reply to R2B:
I did Gallipoli at the bottom of Bosigran Ridge as my first E1. Felt far less commiting than a bunch of other HVS's in Penwith so a good choice in my opinion.
I did Gallipoli at the bottom of Bosigran Ridge as my first E1. Felt far less commiting than a bunch of other HVS's in Penwith so a good choice in my opinion.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I've had a look. Still room for the optimist in me to hope.
I just need to hit form and find someone prepared to do it with me... Hmm.
Did I mention that I want to do T-Rex as well?
> (In reply to DubyaJamesDubya)
>
> [...]
>
> Bad luck:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=596069
>
> [...]
>
> Bad luck:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=596069
I've had a look. Still room for the optimist in me to hope.
I just need to hit form and find someone prepared to do it with me... Hmm.
Did I mention that I want to do T-Rex as well?
Post edited at 14:32
In reply to R2B:
Was in Cornwall in June and thought that whilst most E1s we tried weren't that soft (Suicide Wall was distinctly hard for the grade) Thin Wall Special at Bosigran was pretty reasonable; if you're strong Reach on Pednvounder beach is ok and Bishop's Rib at Chair Ladder is awkward but pretty steady and fairly we'll protected by small/micro wires.
Was in Cornwall in June and thought that whilst most E1s we tried weren't that soft (Suicide Wall was distinctly hard for the grade) Thin Wall Special at Bosigran was pretty reasonable; if you're strong Reach on Pednvounder beach is ok and Bishop's Rib at Chair Ladder is awkward but pretty steady and fairly we'll protected by small/micro wires.
In reply to kyaizawa:
"Reasonable" isn't what most people say after struggling through pitch 2 of Thin Wall Special !
"Reasonable" isn't what most people say after struggling through pitch 2 of Thin Wall Special !
In reply to R2B:
I thought the first pitch of thin wall special was hard E1 but the top pitch at 5a pitch broke me ! but I'm not suited to hard overhanging thuggy routes
I thought the first pitch of thin wall special was hard E1 but the top pitch at 5a pitch broke me ! but I'm not suited to hard overhanging thuggy routes
In reply to struds:
Not just overhanging and butch - its also awkward and rough as a badgers arse. I do wonder whether everyone who claims to have led TWS has actually led this pitch.
> but I'm not suited to hard overhanging thuggy routes
Not just overhanging and butch - its also awkward and rough as a badgers arse. I do wonder whether everyone who claims to have led TWS has actually led this pitch.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
You are spot on Jon.
The guidebook is full of sandbags even on lower grade routes. The South West Climbs guidebook should carry a prominent health warning & an explanation as to why there is so little parity between grades in Cornwall & the rest of the UK. Your statement to "add 1 to everything" is very reasonable.
The E3/E4/E5 climbers who graded the VS's & HVS's clearly have no idea what a VS is like and (according to the tame E4 climber I spent the week with down there) they don't have too much idea what E3 is like either (Eg. Sennen - A Swift Flight of Fancy at E3 6a is quite "complex"!).
I feel quite lucky to still have my ankles so I hope the OP has good judgement in selecting suitable lines.
You are spot on Jon.
The guidebook is full of sandbags even on lower grade routes. The South West Climbs guidebook should carry a prominent health warning & an explanation as to why there is so little parity between grades in Cornwall & the rest of the UK. Your statement to "add 1 to everything" is very reasonable.
The E3/E4/E5 climbers who graded the VS's & HVS's clearly have no idea what a VS is like and (according to the tame E4 climber I spent the week with down there) they don't have too much idea what E3 is like either (Eg. Sennen - A Swift Flight of Fancy at E3 6a is quite "complex"!).
I feel quite lucky to still have my ankles so I hope the OP has good judgement in selecting suitable lines.
In reply to HarryBowyer:
I totally disagree. On a continuum of hard for the grad to easy for the grade Cornwall tends to the hard for the grade but not as much as, say, Pembroke tends towards easy for the grade. They certainly aren't 'sandbag' grades.
Maybe in the ying and yang of it for every Cornwall grade proposed for upgrade a Peak or Pembroke route should be down graded
I totally disagree. On a continuum of hard for the grad to easy for the grade Cornwall tends to the hard for the grade but not as much as, say, Pembroke tends towards easy for the grade. They certainly aren't 'sandbag' grades.
Maybe in the ying and yang of it for every Cornwall grade proposed for upgrade a Peak or Pembroke route should be down graded
In reply to GrahamD: I think its a case of getting used to different styles and you cant really do that on a one week or so holiday. When I went to Pembroke for a week I was looking forward to pssng up a load of soft touches but it didn`t happen - but might have done if Id stayed there longer.
In reply to HarryBowyer:
I also disagree. I think the parity between Cornwall and the rest of the UK is pretty good, and I don't think there's a particularly high concentration of sandbags - you get the odd sandbag just about everywhere. Is it possible that you simply haven't climbed enough on granite to have adapted your climbing style to it?
> The guidebook is full of sandbags even on lower grade routes. The South West Climbs guidebook should carry a prominent health warning & an explanation as to why there is so little parity between grades in Cornwall & the rest of the UK. Your statement to "add 1 to everything" is very reasonable.
I also disagree. I think the parity between Cornwall and the rest of the UK is pretty good, and I don't think there's a particularly high concentration of sandbags - you get the odd sandbag just about everywhere. Is it possible that you simply haven't climbed enough on granite to have adapted your climbing style to it?
In reply to Chris H:
Yep that's basically it - Cornwall's no harder than the next place, it's just what you're (not) used to.
I find gritstone tough these days and yet for a long time that's all I climbed on, now I'm an occasional visitor. I don't think the whole place needs upgrading though, it's just that I'm not very good at it.
Yep that's basically it - Cornwall's no harder than the next place, it's just what you're (not) used to.
I find gritstone tough these days and yet for a long time that's all I climbed on, now I'm an occasional visitor. I don't think the whole place needs upgrading though, it's just that I'm not very good at it.
In reply to ByEek:
Funnily enoungh suicide wall was my first E1 too, unless you count flying butress direct on stanage which seems to be right on the border.
I liked it and have done harder HVS's.
Funnily enoungh suicide wall was my first E1 too, unless you count flying butress direct on stanage which seems to be right on the border.
I liked it and have done harder HVS's.
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