/ Iconic, interesting or unique rock climbs? Suggestions please.

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Kevster - on 21 Aug 2014
Hello!

I am looking for stand out climbs to have some fun and adventure on, and to specifically aim for. - A weeks holiday in Kaly is nice, but not the same as a specific route or rock feature to get the teeth into.

Please suggest!

I have already been to/experienced: Hoy, Stoer, Fiesta de los biceps, Skeleton ridge, Devils slide.

Preferably places which 1 week is possible, and I do not need to be a millionaire to visit.
I climb low E numbers, any others will lead HVS or low E's.

In time, Yosemite etc are on the radar, I also thought Fairhead might be a shout more locally but know little of it. Europe? Open to suggestions. What ever it is, it needs to be motivating, up the psyche and give us something to aim for.

Thanks in advance!!!

PS, if there is a bucket list of such climbs, I failed to find it, so please post a link if I missed it!

Kev.

James Rushforth - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Don Quixote / Schwalbenschwanz

Vinatzer / Messner

On the Marmolada South Face. Hard to beat in my humble opinion.
Kevster - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

Thankyou, I shall look into those and do a little research.
In reply to Kevster:
The huge free-standing/perched flake of El Hueso - La Pedriza, Madrid,

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=214050

More wild pics here: http://www.foropicos.net/foro/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25663

Chris
Post edited at 19:39
Kevster - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Funny you should put that too,
Dolomites is firmly on the soon to do radar (we tried this year but failed), and whilst looking around Riglos earlier in the year, Picos de Europe also hit a chord.

I suppose, I should really get the guide books for these places. If they keep cropping up, then it can't be a bad bet! Both places are worthy of a week of my time. I know there are many stella routes in the Dolomites, any stand out classics besides your flake in Picos?


Kev.
James Rushforth - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

That flake looks amazing. Def just got added to the list.
Dave Flanagan - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

Ireland has plenty of iconic, adventurous climbs, plenty of sea stacks notably Cnoc na Mara in south west Donegal, 100m tall, serious adventure. The Needle down in Dingle, Kerry, a very slender piece of sandstone. Fairhead is jam packed with massive, sustained pitches (do an image search if you don't know what it's like). Mirror Wall in the Burren is the definitive sheer rockface, lots classic E3+ on it. Miles of limestone to be climbed on the Aran Islands. Carrot Ridge in Connemara and Howling Ridge in Kerry are brilliant easy climb/scrambles. Luggala in Wicklow has nearly 200 routes mostly multi-pitch, very scenic, very quiet, less than an hour from Dublin. I could go on....
matt perks - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Aiguille de la Republic? Aiguille Dibona?
Kevster - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to matt perks:

The second one is more inspiring, after a quick look. I am more of a rock climber than a mountaineer. I worry a little that my mountaineering skills may not be up to the challenge of such a route. Or rather the challenge if it doesn't go to plan.
However, I can use a compass and I can pitch a tent, what else is there?!!! lol.


Thanks,
seankenny - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Dave Flanagan:

> Miles of limestone to be climbed on the Aran Islands.

What is the rock quality like down there?

Kevster - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Dave Flanagan:

I'm thinking Ireland is a good shout for a week away holiday. Though I think it may take more than a week to explore more than a sample.
What are the midges etc like? is there a season like in scotland?
rpc on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Iconic, Interesting, Unique - I too like those criteria!

How about Meteora, Greece & more specifically Pillar Of Dreams (5.9) and Hypotenuse (5.10-)?

Montserrat in Spain, specifically Punsola Reniu route on Cavall Bernat (only route we've done there but very memorable)...something like 6a+ A0 or 6c?
Dave Flanagan - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

You could easily spend more than a week. I don't think the midge are quite on the same level on Scotland but I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing the Scottish midge yet. Here they aren't too bad, certainly not a deal breaker.
Dave Flanagan - on 21 Aug 2014
In reply to seankenny:

Good. Not that featured and steep so the routes tend to be hard. There are literally miles of cliffs so it's hard to generalise but there is nothing less than vertical and a lot that is severely overhanging.
Toerag - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Devil's Tower?
TimB - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Dent de Racune? Could be done on the way south to Pyrenees/Spain if you drive.
mattsccm - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to TimB:

Lockwoods Chimney.
HeMa on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Fiemma (Flame) in Bregalia...
ripper - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Piz Badile?
GrahamD - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Vespillaren on Lofoten ?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ben Farley - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Spitzkoppe, Namibia.
Trangia - on 22 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:

One of the classics on Table Mountain, RSA - similar air fare to USA but virtually same time zone, so no jet lag which is important if you only have a week

Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain
iain miller - on 22 Aug 2014
Kevster - on 24 Aug 2014
In reply to iain miller:

Thanks for the further input.
I'd have thought america or southern Africa is quite a way for a week, but I also suspect its closer time wise than driving to Hoy for example, so maybe...
Though I have been to Spitzkopp and climbed a fair way up the rocks, but no described routes as I didn't have my gear.

Lockwoods chimney looks a giggle for a day when in N wales. I haven't heard of that one, maybe I mix in the wrong circles - perverse scrambles are niche.

Some of the granite in Europe looks good, and has been put in the mix previously, not discounted mind.
jcw on 24 Aug 2014
In reply to Kevster:
Try the Vercors. True, there is a certain amount of loose rock, but there is some fabulous climbing and good positions. And really beautiful country. Try Arc de Cercle on Gerbier, Pilier Livanos at Archiane, the Pelle, Deux Soeurs routes, Presles, even a route on Mt Aiguille. Quite out of fashion for all the wrong reasons.
veteye - on 24 Aug 2014
In reply to iain miller:

The first one is quite phallic.
The rock looked a bit shattered,but good fun.
The problem is likely to be that you guys were lucky with the weather,but I would imagine that a good weather system coming from the west/atlantic will mean poor conditions,and that must happen a good amount of the time.

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