UKC

Gogarth - menage a trois

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 Daniel Duerden 21 Aug 2014
Please can someone recommend any good routes to do at Gogarth, up to E2, where the belays can accommodate a party of three?

Thanks,

Dan
 steveb2006 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Daniel Duerden:

Off the top of my head, Resolution Direct, Gogarth (I think), Mousetrap - all have reasonably good / spacious belays. Also The Strand is a brilliant single pitch E2 that now has a abb station again (does have a steep scramble off top pitch). Most Castle Helen routes. Expect there are plenty more.
In reply to steveb2006:

Thanks Steve,

anyone else got some suggestions?
 Jon Stewart 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Daniel Duerden:

If you want to go for a big Main Cliff adventure, then the classic routes up to E2, except Hypodermic are all OK I think. Scavenger is a superb HVS if you've not done it, Nightride is good but the difficulties a bit short lived (hard at E1), Res Direct good, Gogarth OK (but a bit broken and hassly, especially in a 3). I think it's the E3s that have the shit belays (and presumably the harder routes too) - Big Groove would be a laugh*!

At South Stack, NW Passage is a brilliant route with a very spacious belay. Wouldn't recommend Freebird/True Moments. I don't think I'd head down Wen Zawn in a 3 (but plenty do).


*as in gallows humour
 Hephaestus 21 Aug 2014
In reply to Daniel Duerden:

There's Rhoscolyn - plenty of routes, single pitch - just down the road.
 jmills94 25 Aug 2014
In reply to Daniel Duerden:

a lot of the HVS's on the upper tier are great for climbing in a 3 (ive done it) the ramp and the gauntlet are particularly good. you could always link these with a route before on the main cliff like emulator or ardvark if you fancied it.

north west passage on castell helen is amazing and only marginally better is the true moments free bird link up. this could be done as a 3 as the ledge after the true moments pitch under the overhang can accommodate a 3... only issue would be managing the ropes effectively the protect both seconds on the traverse but this could be easily overcome.

all amazing routes get on them! (god i love gogarth haha)
We ended up doing Mousetrap and North West Passage. Both fine in a three, for anyone searching the same question. Mousetrap is quite an adventure!

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