UKC

Straw poll - Best E2 in Scotland? Short wee crag or mountain multipitch?

In reply to Stevie989:

Steeple on Shelter Stone Crag

In reply to Stevie989:


Neither - Sula, Dun Mingulay.

I haven't done much (anything?) on the mountain crags, but I can't imagine they're actually better than Dun Ming, 'cause they're not gniess.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

sounds like the bees gneiss

:p

In reply to Jon Stewart:

There's gneiss in the mountains. And there's fantastic gneiss at Daibeg which is neither wee short or mountain multi pitch.

In reply to aln:

Gneiss in the mountains? Where!?

Been to Daibaig and Sheigra, best crags on the mainland.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Garbh Bheinn, Carn Mor...

In reply to Stevie989:

U-EI on Pabbay
The Pillar at Diabeg
Anger and Lust at Pass of Ballater
Sophie on Erraid
Teradactyl at Earsheugh

There's five of my favourites, but there are plenty others that should be there!


E2 is a pretty good grade to be climbing wherever you are north of the border really, loads of good routes everywhere at that grade.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Of course, Carn Mor. Will go one day.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Sron Ulladale, Creag Dubh Dibadale...

In reply to Stevie989:
I created a ticklist for this very purpose.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=110

No doubt it's WRONG, but...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Garbh Bhienn is great too.

In reply to Andy Moles:


Um ... Sron Ulladale starts at about E4, iirc. I've just looked at it, and photographed it, and boggled. About the most amazing piece of rock i've seen in Britain.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yeah I know, I was just reeling off mountain crags that are made of gneiss.

Good few others less developed on Harris as well...

In reply to Andy Moles:


You could add Agony and Lady Jane (and probably many more!).

In reply to Andy Moles:

That's an appealing list, but of course it's WRONG - someone else's list is always WRONG - but can you explain the absence of The Long Reach from yours?

In reply to Colin Moody and Wicamoi:

I stopped at 20 because it's a nice round number...maybe I'll make it 30

In reply to Andy Moles:



What a trip that would be! I might dedicate a sabbatical to that (missing off ones I've done and adding routes at other grades).

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I've seen the error in my ways and fixed it up to 25. It's one-in-one-out from here though.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Have you been to any of the premier mountain crags?

In reply to Andy Moles:

I'm no longer sure if this list is WRONG.

In reply to Andy Moles:



Not too far wrong (I've done all but the Long Reach, but that's only a slab anyway). I'd question the credentials of a few of the the outcrop routes but they are never going to compete with the mountain and Hebridean routes anyway, and these are what really matters and are pretty much spot on (though I'd replace U-Ei with the even better Paradise Regained/U-Ei combination). Very hard to pick just one......probably Prophecy or Steeple. E2 is a particularly fantastic grade in Scotland. Though E3.....

In reply to Wicamoi:

Oh I'm sure it is. I wouldn't be surprised if there's stuff worthy of that list in the Hebrides that hasn't even been done yet!

In reply to Robert Durran:


I include those in the interest of representation - the best routes of their kind.

In reply to Robert Durran:


Sadly not (except a cheeky solo of Agag's Groove). Never been around when they're in condition (I don't live in Scotland) - hence the need for a sabbatical. Perhaps a regret from the last 3 years when I've been studying and have had loads of time on my hands although I can't really moan about not getting enough climbing done, it was absolutely awesome. Now I'm back at that bastard grindstone things are rather different

In reply to Robert Durran:


What's that?

In reply to aln:


First two pitches of Paradise Regained (much more character and a bit harder than U-Ei's) linking naturally into the phenomenal top pitch of U-Ei. Paradise Regained traverses miles left across U-Ei into an E4 in a rather contrived way.

In reply to Andy Moles:

It's wrong because The Pillar is only E1

If you need to make room you could get rid of one of the Sheigra routes as they are quite similar.

In reply to DaveHK:


Amen brother, but apparently some sort of feeble 'consensus' says otherwise

In reply to Stevie989:

Cheers guys loads of great looking routes I never knew existed.

Subscribed to your list Andy - hopefully make a dent in it.

In reply to Stevie989:

Probably Torro but I still havent been there to do it (must do soon). Shiboleth - which I have done and is brilliant. I expect these are on the linked ticklists.

In reply to Stevie989:

The Bug - single pitch