UKC

Raven Tor route

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 jon 23 Aug 2014

Looking through my diary I find that I did a route at Raven Tor (Miller's Dale) called Paxo, in November 1989. I've looked in the database but can't find it. Anyone know if this route has been superseded by something else or maybe renamed?

Normally the reason would be that no-one has bothered to enter it, but seeing as every conceivable variation on Raven Tor is documented that probably isn't the case.
Post edited at 12:11
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

I found this on a CC New Routes PDF (Googled "Paxo Raven Tor")

As already mentioned limestone had a relatively quiet year but on a pleasing note the quality of the routes produced was particularly high. Mark Pretty set the ball rolling on Raven Tor as early as February by climbing the wall right of Rooster Booster's second pitch. Paxo, E6 6b, described as "like overhanging scree", is unlikely to become popular but fills a gap.

Chris
OP jon 23 Aug 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Hmmm, that sounds familiar! I wonder if it still exists.
Post edited at 12:15
 Ian Parsons 23 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

I always understood that it was simply a "first draft" name for Jive Turkey.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

Looking at the latest Peak Limestone the wall right of Rooster Booster P2 is climbed by Jive Turkey 7b+ which heads away right, (Mark Pretty 1987) and a more direct version is Missing Link 8a (Mark Pretty 2004).

Hope this helps,


Chris
OP jon 23 Aug 2014
In reply to Ian and Chris:

Looks like it's Jive Turkey then. Zippy gave it E6 6b at the time, but I'm sure it would have been bolted and not much different to how it is now. Thanks.

 Chris Murray 23 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

From the Peak Limestone: Cheedale Guide 1987 p207.

Between Weed Killer and Sardine

Paxo E6 6b takes any start to belay at the top of Weed Killer. Clip the 1st and 2nd bolts of Rooster Booster then step down. Move right and go up a groove to a break. Traverse right along a break and go up a groove to a break. Abseil off.

Hope this helps. If you want a scan of the guidebook page, pm me or leave a message on this thread.
OP jon 23 Aug 2014
In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:

That'd be great if you could do that. My guidebooks are in cardboard boxes somewhere in one of three possible barns somewhere in the village as we've just moved house. I'll email you.
 Ian Parsons 23 Aug 2014
In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet, and to Jon:

Apart from the "traverse right" bit this more or less accords with my recollection of Jive Turkey; and the five metre traverse specified in the 1999 edition would surely take it close to Tin Of, which I don't think was the case. I'm sure the easiest solution would be for somebody to ask Zippy; he's even (!) younger than Jon and me, with consequently fewer defunct brain cells.

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