/ Raven Tor route
Looking through my diary I find that I did a route at Raven Tor (Miller's Dale) called Paxo, in November 1989. I've looked in the database but can't find it. Anyone know if this route has been superseded by something else or maybe renamed?
Normally the reason would be that no-one has bothered to enter it, but seeing as every conceivable variation on Raven Tor is documented that probably isn't the case.
I found this on a CC New Routes PDF (Googled "Paxo Raven Tor")
As already mentioned limestone had a relatively quiet year but on a pleasing note the quality of the routes produced was particularly high. Mark Pretty set the ball rolling on Raven Tor as early as February by climbing the wall right of Rooster Booster's second pitch. Paxo, E6 6b, described as "like overhanging scree", is unlikely to become popular but fills a gap.
Hmmm, that sounds familiar! I wonder if it still exists.
I always understood that it was simply a "first draft" name for Jive Turkey.
Looking at the latest Peak Limestone the wall right of Rooster Booster P2 is climbed by Jive Turkey 7b+ which heads away right, (Mark Pretty 1987) and a more direct version is Missing Link 8a (Mark Pretty 2004).
Hope this helps,
Looks like it's Jive Turkey then. Zippy gave it E6 6b at the time, but I'm sure it would have been bolted and not much different to how it is now. Thanks.
From the Peak Limestone: Cheedale Guide 1987 p207.
Between Weed Killer and Sardine
Paxo E6 6b takes any start to belay at the top of Weed Killer. Clip the 1st and 2nd bolts of Rooster Booster then step down. Move right and go up a groove to a break. Traverse right along a break and go up a groove to a break. Abseil off.
Hope this helps. If you want a scan of the guidebook page, pm me or leave a message on this thread.
That'd be great if you could do that. My guidebooks are in cardboard boxes somewhere in one of three possible barns somewhere in the village as we've just moved house. I'll email you.
Apart from the "traverse right" bit this more or less accords with my recollection of Jive Turkey; and the five metre traverse specified in the 1999 edition would surely take it close to Tin Of, which I don't think was the case. I'm sure the easiest solution would be for somebody to ask Zippy; he's even (!) younger than Jon and me, with consequently fewer defunct brain cells.
Elsewhere on the site
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
On the run up to Christmas we have some great savings on all your favourite brands, so its the perfect time to do the... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more