UKC Forums - scarpa instinct vs for all round use

scarpa instinct vs for all round use

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fire_munki 25 Aug 2014

Time for new shoes, found a pair a bit cheaper than my usual muira vs. Look good for bouldering and sport, what they like for a general trad and pottering about? I tend to only have one pair shows for everything.

Luke01 25 Aug 2014

In reply to fire_munki:

I think they're pretty similar to the solution, and having pottered around on trad in those I'd recommend getting some comfier trad shoes. They perorm great on everything but when you're spending 45 mins on a long trad pitch they become rather uncomfortable.

danm 25 Aug 2014

In reply to fire_munki:

Vapour VS are a better bet for that kind of thing, or even the Muira lace-ups, imho.

Jon Stewart 25 Aug 2014

In reply to fire_munki:

Great for indoors, being very hard wearing. A little bit crap for climbing hard in, I'd go for something with a bit more 'feel' for proper climbing. I'm a big Scarpa fan and I've found Force and Visions to be superb all-purpose shoes, Vapour Vs great as a "sunday best" for hard bouldering.

remus Global Crag Moderator 25 Aug 2014

In reply to fire_munki:

As has been said they're more towards the performance end of the spectrum, they'll work for trad but expect a fairly lengthy break on period and a degree of discomfort on long pitches. On the plus side they're really nice when you get on something hard and you really want to be able to trust your feet.

PPP 25 Aug 2014

In reply to fire_munki:

IMHO, if you are pushing really hard, they are probably must to have. I had Evolv Shamans - I got numb feet after standing on a semi-hanging belay.

Two pairs are probably best to have as I do it now. 5.10 greens for trad/easy climbing and Shamans for bouldering and overhanging climbing.