In reply to tim newton:
Having done it and fallen off the crux, I agree it's nails! We thought E4 and pushing 6b, certainly very hard 6a - physical, technical and blind as you can't see what you're going for above the roof.
As others have said, the nearest gear is now in the vague horizontal break where there is a hands off rest on the arête before the crux (by the way, I didn't think to go round the arête like Livesey does in the video as you can get a balancy hands off rest on the left hand side of the arête anyway). I had three bits of gear, none of which I thought was really bomber but collectively they were good enough - must have been as it held! A BD purple cam was pretty crucial. The fall was fine - a few metres but safe. Not really an E3 6a fall though, as to my mind that should have decent gear on the crux, not some way below and to the side! If you blow it on the pumpy layback type moves up the crack above the roof, you'd go a pretty long way (I fell off below that). At least it means you get to do the entire crux sequence if you do fall off, rather than having a rest half way up after slumping on a bit of gear
It would be a more balanced route if the crux was easier as the rest of the route is E2 (and fairly solid at that, though with plenty of good rests) but that crux certainly makes it memorable!
As for the crevasse, we climbed onto the ledge by dropping down then bridging and stepping across, good gear overhead for the first person over and not too bad for the second person once the overhead gear is out as you can drop down further and bridge across when you're pretty much level with the belay on the ledge. So nowhere as bad as we thought it might be. Still wouldn't fancy the jump though, respect to those who do it! Possibly the most adventurous and intimidating approach I've done to get to a route!