/ Anyone fallen off Deja Vu, Bosigran
Has no-one fallen off this route or does its reputation stop any potential E4 leaders trying it.
I'd be surprised if anyone's taken the fall. The route doesn't get many ascents, it's in a super-committing location and has a reputation for seriousness. Anyone who's on it going to be experienced and will have considered it fairly deeply: it's not going to be someone who thinks, "bold 6a in a massively committing location, I might fall off but I'll give it a go anyway".
5c isn't it? I didn't fall off it, but then again I thought the gear was crap!
Grade varies between guides I think. There seems to have been a lot of discussion of my nemesis rock type, Cornish Granite in the last couple of days on here. I'd love to do Deja Vu, it looks amazing, but I'm so crap at granite and the Zawn is so scary that I can't see it happening any time soon. But if/when I do it, I ain't going to be falling off either!
Grading such a route is quite difficult. Before I did this I had just done a whole series of quite hard routes including West Face Route at E5/6b but thought that Deja Vu was far more serious even if it was technically easier. Chris, you may be right with the grade but as you know, once you start the moves traversing right, there is no way back. To me it is one of those routes that, perhaps shows up the problems of our grading system, or maybe it is just under-graded, if the consequence of a fall is taken into account.
That's what E4 5c generally means.
I remember some good rocks in a horizontal crack and a sling on a spike. (Look carefully at the pics of Mark in extreme rock and you can see the sling under his hand). The hardest move was with the gear by your feet. A tad run out higher but if you can do the move lower you won't fall off!
> That's what E4 5c generally means.
Elsewhere on the site
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more