UKC

Hi guys,

I've had a pair of Anasazi Whites for the last two years which I've resoled a couple of times, but I think the time has come to get a second pair of shoes solely for outside use so I don't go through them as quick. I've been looking at the Pinks as a possible new pair, but also at the Miuras. I love the Whites for the stiffness and great edging, but the useless heel was becoming a bit of an annoyance for bouldering and sport climbing.

So, couple of questions-
How stiff are the Pinks in comparison to the Whites?
Do the Miuras do what most Sportivas do and bag out after a few months, and do they retain their stiffness as well as the 5.10 shoes?
Is the heel any good on both shoes?

I'll try them both on hopefully before I buy, just interested to see peoples thoughts who have used them Cheers!

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Pinks are less stiff thean the whites and will soften up quicker. The heel is very comfy but doesn't force your feet forward like the white's do. I prefer the pinks (the heel on the whites was too uncomfotable for me) but I don't climb hard, and mainly on grit.

I don' wear La Sportivas so can't help there!

In reply to spidermonkey09:

I don't wear 5.10, but I've had a few pairs of Miuras and they retain their shape fairly well. They do flatten out some as you'd expect but the toe is still very usable on overhangs right up to the point when you retire them. I think a lot of climbers like them for their flattening though as it helps with smearing while retaining a lot of their aggressiveness. Heel is fantastic if they fit you properly.

Solutions hold their shape better than Miuras IMHO.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Miura Laces lose their downturn after about a day, but otherwise retain their fit pretty well in my experience. I love 'em. I go three full Euro sizes down from my street shoe size (45 to 42)

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Miuras are great. Dont bag out much. Still edge really well till the end. They are baggy at the edge of the tounge. But this seems normal as all my mates that have them have this. Don't be put off. Doesn't affect performance. Pinks soften quite a bit. Though this is word of mouth, not experience.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

I tried on both today and bought the pinks.

Thought the la sportivas pinched across the toes on my feet and I preferred the feel of the 5.10s.

I was also impressed with the heel in the pinks. A tonight thing for most people to find a good for but even more so me with my fairly straight Achilles.

In reply to CharlieMack:

Interesting they don't bag out, my old Sportivas were terrible for that. Guess buy quite small? Yeah I'm a bit concerned by the stiffness of the pinks, how would you say the miuras compare to the whits in terms of that? if you've worn both of course.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

I haven't had great success in the past with 5:10 as they don't fit my feet as well as La Sportivas.
There is a big difference between the Lace and velcro Muiras. The lace will stretch a big more and lose it's stiffness more. Saying that it doesn't effect the edging much and enhances the smearing. This is what I have found with the XS Grip rubber. It could be slightly different with the newer Edge rubber. The Velcro Muiras are a great single pitch shoe that edges incredibly and still have plenty of sensitivity. They don't loose their shape much as they have a built in stiffener, La Sportiva call the P3 platform. They stretch a bit less than the laces. All up the two shoes cover everything. Muiras laces for all round and the VS for technical climbing on small holds. It's all down to how good the shoe fits your foot tho.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Recently started using the miura lace having previously used miura vs, anasazi (brown), various scarpa shoes and andrea boldrinis before.

In short, the miura lace is the best climbing shoe I've ever worn for 99% of what I actually do (bouldering, vertical to slightly overhanging sport, vertical - slab trad). So good infact I plan to stock pile for fear they'll change them.

I was convinced the anasazis were the best edging shoe around and for that reason I "put up" with the heel (crap). They are very good and stiff with quite hard rubber so they stay on small holds and dont melt off unlike some shoes I've worn (miura vs, boldrinis).

The miuras are slightly softer and seem to stick a little better but without the melting off feeling. For that reason they do better on marginal, slopey, polished footholds (aka dumbarton).

Also, the heel fit is the best I've had. Obviously depends on your foot but works for me.

Finally, they have replaced my anasazis for trad, for the reasons above and because they are more comfy. They've also replaced my more aggressive miura vs for bouldering and sport.

Unless your climbing 45 degree system boards or similar, they do seem to be as advertised, a do it all and do it all well (better?) shoe.

You have probably guessed, I quite like them.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

They arn't quite as stiff as the White's, but i found were much more comfortable for longer periods. I get 6.5 in sportivas for miura, katana velcro and pythons. I get 7.5 for anasazi tan. Street shoe size is normally 8.
This is for a tight, but semi comfy fit. Could probably go another half size down, in all of these, but don't find any performance gains to outweigh the discomfort.

In reply to Brian Pollock:

Hmm you're convincing me...thanks for all the feedback!

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Another Miura convert after years of (old) Pinks then Katanas (great but less precise/stiff). Haven't looked back - use them for trad and sport.

In reply to Skyfall:

I should add that I also have a pair of the new pinks but the Miuras are better. More precise, the pinks feel clumsy in comparison.

The same as or Whites are a little bit stiffer.


They do stretch, more then 5.10, but as result they will fit your foot (toes) better.


They retain as stiff as they were, but less stiff then 5.10


White 5.10s have way batter heels then pinks but it's because of pinks have the worst heels possible.
For me Miura VS have great heel.

Anasazi and Miura VS are totally different shoes.
5.10 are flat ("straight"), have the best of the best rubber. I use them for less than 90 degrees routs.
Miura VS are curved, less stiff but works great on overhangings.

Have not tried yet but think Stonelands VCS whould be the golden mean.
Or a silver bullet depends on what metall you prefer

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Aren't there new Anasazi pinks out with a new heel?

In reply to Toerag:


Ops.. Thare are new Pinks with heels looking like same as Whites have.
Thank you!

but no Whites.
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14522-anasazi-lace-the-pink
Strange turn. Whites looked much better

In reply to ylem:

The heel on the new pinks is really very good.

In reply to Stevie989:
The heel on the new pinks fits me really well, none of the other Anasazi heels fit me properly.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Does anyone else find that the toes go through quickly on the pinks? Find this with anasazis in general.