UKC

getting back to climbing after an accident

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 domgriff 30 Aug 2014
Hi...

Having decked it off a badly protected rock route in the Peak some years ago, in my 30's (E1 5a tells the gear story) and having spent a couple of weeks in Tameside Hospital... some surgery and lots of morphine) ... I have come to the conclusion that,after too long, I am wanting to get back into the climbing that I loved

I never 'officially' stopped... but as I was then a new dad nad had child care duties options were ltd.. having got back on climbing walls (antiseptic... boring) and having bolt clipped a bit in France... (doesn't feel the same thrill) .. I am wondering if you UKCers might have any suggestions as to what my game plan might best be to get back engaging with the essential British game....

All suggestions gratefully received !!
cheers
Dom


 goose299 30 Aug 2014
In reply to domgriff:

Just get out!
Start easy, get your confidence back and build on it.
 gd303uk 30 Aug 2014
In reply to domgriff:

agree with the post above, get back on the whores, take it slow and before long you will be enjoying the buzz again.

 Greenbanks 30 Aug 2014
In reply to gd303uk:
Erm....that's a typo yes???
 mrchewy 31 Aug 2014
In reply to domgriff:

Get back on that E1.
abseil 31 Aug 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

> Get back on that E1.

Sorry mrchewy.........................my advice is... don't get back on that E1. Get on another E1 with better protection.
 goose299 31 Aug 2014
In reply to gd303uk:
> (In reply to domgriff)
>
> get back on the whores,

ooohh errr
 ianstevens 31 Aug 2014
In reply to abseil:

> Sorry mrchewy.........................my advice is... don't get back on that E1. Get on another E1 with better protection.

I have to disagree - get back on it! Otherwise it will haunt you forever. Having said that, maybe don't do it straight away, look at it as a goal to work towards.
abseil 31 Aug 2014
In reply to ianstevens:

> I have to disagree - get back on it! Otherwise it will haunt you forever. Having said that, maybe don't do it straight away...

Not a bad point, on reflection. I actually did this once. I fell 80 feet off Krapps Last Tape at Avon Gorge, pulling one runner and finishing 5 feet above the belay ledge (belayer looked very surprised and was smirking...). I didn't go back that day but did very soon afterwards, and led it fine, no problem. (On the other hand I wasn't injured... completely different to the OP).
 mrchewy 31 Aug 2014
In reply to abseil:

Nice fall! 80ft is no tiddler

I hit the deck back in March and got straight back on the climb, finishing it off with a few rests for the extremely painful ankle. A trip to the physio to sort the compressed spine hurt a little too but I was satisfied I'd still made it to the top of the route, even if I couldn't log it.
 omerta 31 Aug 2014
In reply to domgriff:

Not a climbing accident, per se, but I did fall 60 foot off Tryfan a few years ago. Took me quite a bit of time and confidence to get back to the mountains, let alone to climbing. Just took it easy and steady and also only walked / climbed with fantastic, lovely people who were supportive and didn't take the piss when I got wobbly.

Maybe also take a look into NLP as a way of dealing with your fears; I know there are a few great articles on here in that vein.

abseil 31 Aug 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

> Nice fall! 80ft is no tiddler ... I hit the deck back in March and got straight back on the climb, finishing it off with a few rests for the extremely painful ankle. A trip to the physio to sort the compressed spine...

80 feet, yes, but that was free and clear without even a bruise... You've got more guts than me. If I'd hit the deck like you did, and also been injured like that, I would have sold all my stuff and taking up fishing off a pier, not kidding!

I have this aversion to hitting the deck...

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