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sport climbing NE Italy + Dolomites 2

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 kenr 31 Aug 2014
Got out yesterday to check some valley sport crags -- unfortunately the rain showers did not permit actual climbing. In this post I'm not repeating info already available in the guidebook or on websites (easily found by searches with the word "klettergarten").

Naturns (Naturno) NW from Meran + Bozen has several crags nearby. I think easiest to access and most popular is
Juval (#2 in the Chiaramonte guidebook) -- parking near lat long approx (N46.6478 E10.9772) then walk a short ways north alongside the stream. Sharon and I did some nice climbing there early July.

Interesting finding yesterday is that crags #5 Wallburg and #6 Wintertraum are only 400 meters apart, and easy to walk between them. You can reach there crags either by a long gentle walk from high parking 4-5 km to the east, or about 1.2km distance up a good trail for about +220 vertical meters from low parking to reach #5 (more like +250m for #6).

High parking lat long approx (N46.6582 E11.0082).
Walk west easy on Wallburgweg trail for about 4km -- flat because it's on an squeduct ("waal"). Key landmark along the way is stairs up and over a water pipe 2 meters in diameter. About 400m after that a trail joins from the left. Another 40m west from there, leave the aqueduct trail and head right diagonaling up the steep slope for about 35m, then diagonal up left about 40m, and find Sector A of #6 Wintertraum. Impressive-looking rock with a comfortable base area (and delightful views down and across the valley here and throughout the approach).
#6 Wintertraum sector A approx (N46.6525 E10.9870).

To get from #6 to #5, from where you left the aqueduct trail for #6, continue west on the Wallburgweg about 220m, see a vague trail forking slightly left, leave the Wallburgweg and follow that, which is an older aqueduct trail now with some large rocks obstructing it, but serves as a useful shortcut. About 100m a wider well-maintained trail crosses it. Continue across roughly horizontal on the less-maintained track. Another 170m west (passing a electric-power tower), find the crag:
#6 Wallburg (N46.6502 E10.9807)

With some planning and a single automobile, you can climb more easily at either or both of #5 + #6 by now sending your driver running back on the aqueduct (slightly downhill) to the high parking, while the others finish downhill (carrying all the ropes + gear) to the low parking.

To get down to the valley near the bottom station of the Unterstell lift, go back east 170m to the last trail junction, then bear right down the well-maintained trail (generally east with some zigzags). When reach junction with another well-maintained trail, turn right to continue down SW. When reach asphalt road, turn left and go E then S to hit the main road.

Parking low near Unterstell lift around (N46.6501 E10.9920) alongside main road. Or alternate off-road by electric power station at (N46.6508 E10.9946).
To walk up to #5 Wallburg from here, start on asphalt road N about 100m past Unterstell lift bottom station. Soon curve left to go up W about 400m. Just before Katrin's Konditerei turn right onto dirt trail, signs for Wallburgboden + Hohenweg. Up this well-maintained trail NE about 110m to a junction. The Hohenweg goes right toward Schwalbennest, but instead turn Left and follow sign for Wallburgboden.

At first some zigzags generally N, then diagonal L roughly W. Trail is well-maintained at a nice steepness. About 300m on this diagonal, pass over a black pipe about 9cm diameter. Another 100m see a stone wall along R side and meet a horizontal unmarked trail crossing (which is an older aqueduct trail) - (could turn R on this to go to #6 Wintertraum crag). Turn L onto the unmarked trail and go west horizontal (passing an electric power tower) to reach the crag
#6 Wallburg (N46.6502 E10.9807)

Ken

P.S. Since the UKC forum software has not been permitting me to add info to the first topic I started with this Subject name, I decided to just start a new topic.

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