UKC

Flexiblity Training

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 specticlay 03 Sep 2014
Hi guys, Im having trouble training my flexibility, training to swing high feet on boulder problems is hurting almost to the point of injury and i know i should be working on that.
Some say yoga?!
Does anyone have any advice on stretches or exercises I should be doing to improve this??

Many Thanks,
J
 dr_botnik 03 Sep 2014
In reply to specticlay:

i also need a bit more flexibility, plenty of tutorials on youtube... i use a fitness blender routine (the 10 min lower body one plus a few arm/shoulder/forearm stretches) after climbing and try to do a few sun salutations on days off. Any other tips would be appreciated!
OP specticlay 04 Sep 2014
In reply to dr_botnik:

Yeah I'm finding more and more that my warm up has to be spot on to get the max out of my climbing, hard to get right though! especially when you just want to jump on straight away.
Is it common for climbers to take part in yoga, would that help do you think?
 rgold 04 Sep 2014
In reply to specticlay:

Yes, some say Yoga, but I think you can do perfectly well with a lot less. These two stretches will help considerably: http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/stretching-to-improve-high-stepping... .

High-stepping on steep and overhanging walls requires strength, not just flexibility, and in some cases it is a matter of technique. The strength involved is in the abs and the muscles actually involved in lifting the leg. So I've found that the table high-step stretches mentioned in the link above are better done as a step-up exercise. Put both hands on the table palms down as for a mantel and try to step up as close to them as possible. Then do the stretching part, step down, and repeat with the other leg. You'll feel the ab involvement right away I think. To build up the leg strength needed to get the leg up high, try doing the same exercise with ankle weights.

The technique part involves facing sideways rather than straight-in and levering the body away from the rock to get more clearance for the high-step.
 Dandan 04 Sep 2014
In reply to specticlay:

If you are talking about getting your feet high on the rock from a hanging, foot-off position, then it's core strength you need more than flexibility, time to get busy with the dish-tucks!

If you need to high step from a static, feet-on position then flexibility would definitely help more, although of course there is no harm in having more flexibility anyway, it will never be a hindrance.
OP specticlay 06 Sep 2014
In reply to specticlay:

Thanks guys, huge help, working really hard on my climbing and these hints and tips help a great deal. Will take this all on board.

Cheers
 nw 06 Sep 2014
In reply to specticlay:

Another good one is: Support yourself on your arms in a dip station, parallel bars or whatever, feet off the ground.Medicine ball or plate squeezed between your knees, raise knees to chest or as high as you can get them. Increase weight/reps as you can.

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