UKC

Ceuse climbing

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Mike5 04 Sep 2014
My girlfriend and I are planning a trip to Ceuse in October and I have a few questions for the initiated:
-Have other been in October? Is the weather okay? what clothes did you pack?
-Best guidebook to buy? How is the Rockfax guide?
-Any beta on gites, best one there, best deal,etc
-Route recommendations: I climbing 12+ to 13a/b ... best routes to get on!!!

Thanks!
Mike
altirando 04 Sep 2014
In reply to Mike5:

Isn't the old sanatorium a gite now>?
 simonzxr 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Mike5:

Don't bother with the rockfax unless you plan to climb at other crags in the area as it's a bit out of date. The local guide is good and can be had for about 15 Euros at the campsite.

If you like super steep and juggy go to Cascade. For slightly less steep and more techy go to Berlin. For vertical go to un pont. The newer routes down the far right of the crag are really great too. No point in recommending particular routes because they're all great!

As for whether, not sure, but if it's sunny you'll be able to climb all day in the sun if you need to by changing sectors (the opposite of what you do in the summer)
 yorkshireman 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Mike5:

I live about 25km north of Ceuse, at about the same altitude and the weather in October can be fine, with some lovely sunny days - but if you get a northerly wind it can be pretty horrible and snow isn't unknown (we had our first snows 11 Oct last year).

Be prepared for anything basically.

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