UKC

Southern sandstone- Rope ethics

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 Superpump 05 Sep 2014

Hi,

I'm hoping to climb at Harrisons/Bowles /High Rocks this weekend..
My only problem is that I only have thin double ropes.. I've got plenty of kit to extend the belay over the edge and will put carpet under the rope etc. I was also going to put a thin tube of gaffer/ carpet around the ropes so the ropes stay together where they would rub over the rock at the top? Will this be enough or is the rock so soft that having two ropes instead of one will damage the rock even more, in which case I should fork out on a single before going?
Post edited at 13:11
 Ian Bentley 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

If you're extending over the edge I don't see how one or two ropes would make any difference? just make sure that moving ropes can't rub on the rock (i.e. extend over the edge and belayer standing in the right place, out from the face) and use rope protector as you suggest for your extending rope / sling. Glad you're planning ahead to protect the sandstone.
 Trangia 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

I take it that you are talking about dynamic ropes? If so, sorry to put a dampner on your enthusiasm but they are not really suitable and you should really use a static rope.

The reason for this is that if you come off the resulting stretch will cause more wear where ir passes over any of the rock whereas a static rope will remain static ie minimal wear.

It would be better if you buy a static rope
 CurlyStevo 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

Dynamic ropes are absolutely fine for belaying with as long as you rig your anchors with static or slings. In many ways they are preferable sometimes you have to extend the anchors a bit down the crag to protect the rock meaning you lead above the attachment point a fall in this situation is not advisable on static rope.

Don't worry too much about joinging your 9mm ropes together just make sure they are not rubbing on the rock!
OP Superpump 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Ian Bentley:
Cheers Ian, I was just about to moderate my own thread by deleting it! Yes that was my plan, but It's stupidly over complicated trying to hold 4 strands of rope together all trying to saw through the rock during a fall .. probably can be done with a very careful set up on some of the routes but should probably do the correct thing and buy a rope, thanks for the reply..I phoned High Rocks and they said all they do is 'supply the rocks ' which amused me though in reality the rocks were provided a huge time and space rending explosion /or the great creator depending on your viewpoint. Cheers.G
Post edited at 14:23
 GrahamD 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

As stated, the important thing is that the anchors are static and the anchor point ensures that the climbing rope doesn't rub the rock.
OP Superpump 05 Sep 2014
i just noticed the earlier thread on a similar subject.. Thanks Trangia, don't want to do any damage, so actually a single static better, I just bought 15 metres for the belay so will just get another bit, at least it's cheap.. Thanks for the replies have a good weekend people.
 CurlyStevo 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

you can use a 30 metre dyaminic rope for sandstone, if you are going to buy static to belay with (not necessary) then you'll need atleast 26 metres.
OP Superpump 05 Sep 2014

Right ok cheers Curly Stevo /Graham D/ everyone will just get a single bit of dynamic and use the static for belay as planned, be carefuland not fall off. Thanks, maybe see you down there at some point.
Post edited at 14:20
 Trangia 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

CurlyStevo makes a very sound point about climbing above the krab on a static rope using a static anchor belay, there is an increased risk because there is nothing to absorb the shock of a fall in such circumstances. It's really a balancing act between trying cause the least amount of potential damage and your own safety.

I prefer to use a static rope but if the anchor belay is too long you can feel a bit "exposed" once above the krab.

The important thing in either case is that the belay anchor set up is static.
 CurlyStevo 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Trangia:

I think the best thing for the belays when they fit is wide nylon slings they seem to stay put best as the rope moves around and are also much more durable than either static line or dyneema (which further confirms they are likely the least damaging)
OP Superpump 05 Sep 2014

Hi, yes.. I've got the Jingo guide which has a good pic of setting up the belay .. I've got 15 metres of static and plenty of slings and was going to make sure the crab was well over the edge and wouldn't be dragging over the rock .. it was more doubling a d/h rope up issue .. I've seen the pics of the top of the routes with the huge grooves worn by ropes and even with lots of cunning carpet bodging it's a bit uneccessary to have 4 strands of rope flying about in a fall , I just need to get 30ms of thicker single .. thanks for all the info..looking forwards to getting down there and standing in the shadows of Boysen and all..
Post edited at 14:55
 Trangia 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Superpump:

Enjoy! In spite of it's critics Southern Sandstone is great for what it is, and so different from anything else in the UK.
 climbwhenready 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Trangia:

> Enjoy! In spite of it's critics Southern Sandstone is great for what it is, and so different from anything else in the UK.

Just remember your crampons.













(Joking!!!)
OP Superpump 05 Sep 2014

Cheers, yes of course crampons, full alpine gear and portaledge;-0
Post edited at 17:42

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