In reply to everyone:
Thanks for all the responses!
I'll try to reply to things that need replying to.
Jon Stewart - thanks for all the locations, and you were right about the grade conversions comments.
AlanLittle - correct about not entirely understanding the English system. Why the rest of the world can't accept that John Ewbank was a smart fellow and all follow his (the Aussie) grading system, I'll never know. It makes so much more sense than everything else!
I've been in the Pembroke area before, I'd like to climb there. Is it doable without a car? Do "sea cliff lite logistics" require a second rope etc? At this point, I only have a single 60m with me.
spenser - thanks for the link! I have read it, now just to commit the "average" ratings to memory.
Simon4 - have considered the car option previously. Might have to revive it.
Rob Parsons - normally I'm about 18-19 in Aussie trad grades, but I haven't been climbing much in the last couple of months (spent July and August getting rained on in Chamonix, Switerland and the Dolomites).
john arran and The Ex-Engineer - lift sharing sounds good. And I hadn't considered coaches over here, only the trains.
flaneur - thanks for the tip on the facebook group. I'll join that in just a second!
Karl Bromelow - yep, 4 hours drive to Araps is fine for a weekend mission. Done it more times than I can count.
Oliver/65m moderate millinton - that sounds like a great tip. I'll definately pester you for a few hints on nice close crags.
Solaris - great post. Moonarie is one of my favourite cliffs ever (dare I say it, better than Araps...?). Summerday Valley is convenient, but nothing special really. And it's closed after some severe fires over the summer.
Scotland winter is definitely on my list. I have my boots, axes and crampons with me, and I'm very keen to use them!
seankenney - good tips. We're right in central London (Paddington), so hopefully at least we could try to rely on night buses if something went pairshaped.