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Any tips for breaking Redpoint deadlock?... in a hurry!
I'm running out of conditions for my redpoint project.
Beta wired, running out of steam (PE) two holds from what pass for jugs which I'd be able to de-pump on.
So what can be done in a week to increase the chance of a send?
It may be an urban myth but I often hear Malcolm Smith quoted as saying... eat nothing but an apple a day then eat a Mars Bar before the attempt.
Having been close when very tired I thought a week of light training would be the thing but only got to the exact same high point.
These are desperate times, Malc's plan is starting to sound attractive.
Are there alternatives I should consider?
I tried a power scream on one burn but that didn't help.
I'm running out of conditions for my redpoint project.
Beta wired, running out of steam (PE) two holds from what pass for jugs which I'd be able to de-pump on.
So what can be done in a week to increase the chance of a send?
It may be an urban myth but I often hear Malcolm Smith quoted as saying... eat nothing but an apple a day then eat a Mars Bar before the attempt.
Having been close when very tired I thought a week of light training would be the thing but only got to the exact same high point.
These are desperate times, Malc's plan is starting to sound attractive.
Are there alternatives I should consider?
I tried a power scream on one burn but that didn't help.
In reply to JLS:
Apples are good... but Mars bars? Find a substitute and you're there! As for power screams, Mrs J developed a very fine one on her last redpoint. It certainly worked.
Apples are good... but Mars bars? Find a substitute and you're there! As for power screams, Mrs J developed a very fine one on her last redpoint. It certainly worked.
In reply to jon:
Perhaps I dismissed the Power Scream too quickly. I'll practice at the wall this week.
Perhaps I dismissed the Power Scream too quickly. I'll practice at the wall this week.
In reply to JLS:
It worked for her. Me, I prefer silent ruthless efficiency.
> Perhaps I dismissed the Power Scream too quickly. I'll practice at the wall this week.
It worked for her. Me, I prefer silent ruthless efficiency.
In reply to Stevie989:
Err... well I suppose if I get to the sixth attempt of the day it might be worth a shot. But being honest if gets to that point I think I'm fcuked.
Err... well I suppose if I get to the sixth attempt of the day it might be worth a shot. But being honest if gets to that point I think I'm fcuked.
In reply to JLS:
If you really want it then the best thing you can do in a week is to lose a load of weight if you have the capacity to do this. I have been able to shed about 6 pounds in a week and it makes a huge amount of difference.
Avoid alcohol at all costs.
If you really want it then the best thing you can do in a week is to lose a load of weight if you have the capacity to do this. I have been able to shed about 6 pounds in a week and it makes a huge amount of difference.
Avoid alcohol at all costs.
In reply to Xavierpercy:
You are Malcolm Smith and I claim my £5.
But seriously is a week of crash dieting not likely to leave you feeling weak by the weekend?
You are Malcolm Smith and I claim my £5.
But seriously is a week of crash dieting not likely to leave you feeling weak by the weekend?
In reply to JLS:
You feel irritable and weak for the first few days but on the day of your session on the route just eat normal crag food ie stuff that will give you plenty of energy, ensure you are well hydrated and unleash the power and crush the project.
You feel irritable and weak for the first few days but on the day of your session on the route just eat normal crag food ie stuff that will give you plenty of energy, ensure you are well hydrated and unleash the power and crush the project.
I've not tried it, by glycogen dumping may (not) work for you!
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/glycogen-dumping-and-why-...
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/glycogen-dumping-and-why-...
In reply to JLS:
That's rubbish advice.....try a snickers instead :p
> So what can be done in a week to increase the chance of a send?
> It may be an urban myth but I often hear Malcolm Smith quoted as saying... eat nothing but an apple a day then eat a Mars Bar before the attempt.
That's rubbish advice.....try a snickers instead :p
In reply to JLS:
Start skipping clips?
Obsessively visualise succeeding the route
Up your pace on the route; i.e. race the pump!
As others have said, crash dieting could work too. Enema would give the quickest results
I remember hearing about some Irish likely lads necking two cans of redbull to boost their stamina before trying Divided years; not recommended, but the caffeine content could have the same effect as the enema!
Start skipping clips?
Obsessively visualise succeeding the route
Up your pace on the route; i.e. race the pump!
As others have said, crash dieting could work too. Enema would give the quickest results
I remember hearing about some Irish likely lads necking two cans of redbull to boost their stamina before trying Divided years; not recommended, but the caffeine content could have the same effect as the enema!
In reply to JLS:
If your Powering out try to climb quicker, be this by doing each move quicker or by chalking less or by skipping a clip.
If your Powering out try to climb quicker, be this by doing each move quicker or by chalking less or by skipping a clip.
In reply to JLS:
Have some time off to recover.
Climb faster and as efficiently as possible.
Make the clips as easy as possible with slings.
Consider skipping a clip.
Lighter rope.
Look objectively at your beta, is there a move/section still worth refining?
Try harder, don't let go just push on that one more move, see what happens.
jk
Have some time off to recover.
Climb faster and as efficiently as possible.
Make the clips as easy as possible with slings.
Consider skipping a clip.
Lighter rope.
Look objectively at your beta, is there a move/section still worth refining?
Try harder, don't let go just push on that one more move, see what happens.
jk
In reply to Ally Smith:
I think they took loads of Ibuprofen as well to try and thin their blood! In addition to the crash dieting start having a shot of concentrated beetroot juice daily the week before you try the route. On the day have one in the morning and one half an hour before your redpoint. Also keep fluid intake the day before and on the day to a minimum. i.e. Have toast and a banana for breakfast instead of a bowl of cereal with all the heavy milk.
I think they took loads of Ibuprofen as well to try and thin their blood! In addition to the crash dieting start having a shot of concentrated beetroot juice daily the week before you try the route. On the day have one in the morning and one half an hour before your redpoint. Also keep fluid intake the day before and on the day to a minimum. i.e. Have toast and a banana for breakfast instead of a bowl of cereal with all the heavy milk.
In reply to JLS:
Get Koon to give you a puntie-up to the first bolt, power-screaming as she does so, natch!
Get Koon to give you a puntie-up to the first bolt, power-screaming as she does so, natch!
In reply to other:
Cheer for other replies I haven't time to address right now..
In reply to jkarran:
No time, the weekend coming might be last go of the year!
And I felt well recovered last weekend.
My sequence is good however pacing perhaps could be improved.
I can't decide how to pace the steadier first 4 bolts (10m).
If I blast it I get out of breath and feel I have to spend longer at the pre-crux shakes to catch my breath so ultimately seem to expend the same time and energy regardless. There's a good shake at 8m, hardish move to a poorer shake at 10m. Thereafter the crux is 6m in length of sustained hard climbing with a clip at 3m in. Mid crux there isn't much chance to keep a hand off the rock for any length of time. I'm off at 5m in. If I get through the crux there are sufficent rests above that the remaining climbing isn't much of a worry.
Do you think I could I do without waiting to getting my breath back at the second shake? The second shake isn't great. I can catch my breath and lower my heart rate but really my arms seem to neither improve or weaken. I only hover there for a bit because I'm thinking kicking off into the crux while still panting from the last hardish move isn't a good plan.
Clips all sorted.
Been doing that one of the lower clips that was taking a bit of effort. The only other clip that would make a diffrence is the mid crux clip that I'm falling on and honestly the fall without it would be getting pretty dangerous. (7m run-out above a bolt at 10m, with a very light belayer!)
Good call. My rope is pretty chunky will see if I can borrow a lighter one.
I'm convinced there isn't much fat left in the sequence.
I'm slappy right up until gravity pulls the holds out of reach.
Cheer for other replies I haven't time to address right now..
In reply to jkarran:
> Have some time off to recover.
No time, the weekend coming might be last go of the year!
And I felt well recovered last weekend.
> Climb faster and as efficiently as possible.
My sequence is good however pacing perhaps could be improved.
I can't decide how to pace the steadier first 4 bolts (10m).
If I blast it I get out of breath and feel I have to spend longer at the pre-crux shakes to catch my breath so ultimately seem to expend the same time and energy regardless. There's a good shake at 8m, hardish move to a poorer shake at 10m. Thereafter the crux is 6m in length of sustained hard climbing with a clip at 3m in. Mid crux there isn't much chance to keep a hand off the rock for any length of time. I'm off at 5m in. If I get through the crux there are sufficent rests above that the remaining climbing isn't much of a worry.
Do you think I could I do without waiting to getting my breath back at the second shake? The second shake isn't great. I can catch my breath and lower my heart rate but really my arms seem to neither improve or weaken. I only hover there for a bit because I'm thinking kicking off into the crux while still panting from the last hardish move isn't a good plan.
> Make the clips as easy as possible with slings.
Clips all sorted.
> Consider skipping a clip.
Been doing that one of the lower clips that was taking a bit of effort. The only other clip that would make a diffrence is the mid crux clip that I'm falling on and honestly the fall without it would be getting pretty dangerous. (7m run-out above a bolt at 10m, with a very light belayer!)
> Lighter rope.
Good call. My rope is pretty chunky will see if I can borrow a lighter one.
> Look objectively at your beta, is there a move/section still worth refining?
I'm convinced there isn't much fat left in the sequence.
> Try harder, don't let go just push on that one more move, see what happens.
I'm slappy right up until gravity pulls the holds out of reach.
Post edited at 12:40
In reply to JLS:
- No alcohol whatsoever - Guy is right. You sleep better.
- Check to see if your beta can be improved - get someone to check it out
- Break the pattern of starting at the bottom and falling off before the top. Instead, get up to point from which you can get to the top, rest on the bolt then lead to the top. This will create the new neural pathways you need. Extend downwards from there until your starting point is the ground.
- Almost certainly one arm is getting more pumped than the other: whichever one it is, hold on with the other arm and give your more pumped arm quick rests.
- No alcohol whatsoever - Guy is right. You sleep better.
- Check to see if your beta can be improved - get someone to check it out
- Break the pattern of starting at the bottom and falling off before the top. Instead, get up to point from which you can get to the top, rest on the bolt then lead to the top. This will create the new neural pathways you need. Extend downwards from there until your starting point is the ground.
- Almost certainly one arm is getting more pumped than the other: whichever one it is, hold on with the other arm and give your more pumped arm quick rests.
Post edited at 13:13
In reply to jon:
>"Day 10 eh?"
What can I say? I not very good at climbing.
My last big project took 20 days over four years!
I my defence, with this one I was good for it at around day 5 however contidions, weather and a minor illness set me back and my form isn't quite just as good as it was.
>"Day 10 eh?"
What can I say? I not very good at climbing.
My last big project took 20 days over four years!
I my defence, with this one I was good for it at around day 5 however contidions, weather and a minor illness set me back and my form isn't quite just as good as it was.
In reply to JLS:
It obviously depends on the route, but I often find that a shake-out that initially feels like its sapping you, eventually reaps dividends. There's an initial feeling that you're getting tireder but, if you can force down the panic and relax into it, the forearm pump subsides. The judgement comes from leaving when the forearms have recovered somewhat, but before the more "bulk" muscles of the shoulders and biceps get too tired. So, lingering for as long as you can bear at all the possible rests might be worth a try for at least one attempt - you might be surprised by how much you recover.
Also, use longer draws where-ever possible. Even non-"gripper clippers" can be pretty draining and there's no sense in wasting energy pulling up rope. Is there any drag - would a draw with a revolver krab help.
> My sequence is good however pacing perhaps could be improved.
> I can't decide how to pace the steadier first 4 bolts (10m).
> If I blast it I get out of breath and feel I have to spend longer at the pre-crux shakes to catch my breath so ultimately seem to expend the same time and energy regardless. There's a good shake at 8m, hardish move to a poorer shake at 10m. Thereafter the crux is 6m in length of sustained hard climbing with a clip at 3m in.
> I can't decide how to pace the steadier first 4 bolts (10m).
> If I blast it I get out of breath and feel I have to spend longer at the pre-crux shakes to catch my breath so ultimately seem to expend the same time and energy regardless. There's a good shake at 8m, hardish move to a poorer shake at 10m. Thereafter the crux is 6m in length of sustained hard climbing with a clip at 3m in.
> Do you think I could I do without waiting to getting my breath back at the second shake? The second shake isn't great. I can catch my breath and lower my heart rate but really my arms seem to neither improve or weaken.
It obviously depends on the route, but I often find that a shake-out that initially feels like its sapping you, eventually reaps dividends. There's an initial feeling that you're getting tireder but, if you can force down the panic and relax into it, the forearm pump subsides. The judgement comes from leaving when the forearms have recovered somewhat, but before the more "bulk" muscles of the shoulders and biceps get too tired. So, lingering for as long as you can bear at all the possible rests might be worth a try for at least one attempt - you might be surprised by how much you recover.
Also, use longer draws where-ever possible. Even non-"gripper clippers" can be pretty draining and there's no sense in wasting energy pulling up rope. Is there any drag - would a draw with a revolver krab help.
In reply to JLS:
No, not at all. I love long projects. Mind you, my longest was only 12 days. Got one at the moment that I hope is going to last a while - actually, it will as I haven't sussed out quite a few moves yet.
One of my lasting memories of a project in the Peak was of repeatedly falling off the very last moves before the belay. This was solved one day by my belayer who bellowed 'DON'T YOU DARE FALL OFF NOW' as I reached that point. It worked - and interestingly has done numerous times since - when I get to a similar point on a redpoint I just think of Phil shouting at me!
> >"Day 10 eh?"
> What can I say? I not very good at climbing.
No, not at all. I love long projects. Mind you, my longest was only 12 days. Got one at the moment that I hope is going to last a while - actually, it will as I haven't sussed out quite a few moves yet.
One of my lasting memories of a project in the Peak was of repeatedly falling off the very last moves before the belay. This was solved one day by my belayer who bellowed 'DON'T YOU DARE FALL OFF NOW' as I reached that point. It worked - and interestingly has done numerous times since - when I get to a similar point on a redpoint I just think of Phil shouting at me!
In reply to ericinbristol:
I'm not much of a drinker so this is my norm.
Honestly, after maybe 40 ascents, I would be very suprised if anyone could find something I've not tried out.
I've climbed to the top from before the crux! I just need to do it from the ground. While the crux is very difficult climbing for me it's not *that* hard in itself. I've climbed it many times. The problem is purely the level of fatigue accumulated on the previous climbing which again, in itself, I actually find very easy.
Yeah, the left was getting more pumped than the right. I corrected that by skipping clip 3, clipping bolt 4 off the righthand, and ending and starting and the shakes with the left off. I think pump levels are pretty even now.
I think I've got to the point where I just need a better horoscope for the day!
> No alcohol whatsoever
I'm not much of a drinker so this is my norm.
> - Check to see if your beta can be improved - get someone to check it out
Honestly, after maybe 40 ascents, I would be very suprised if anyone could find something I've not tried out.
> - Break the pattern...
I've climbed to the top from before the crux! I just need to do it from the ground. While the crux is very difficult climbing for me it's not *that* hard in itself. I've climbed it many times. The problem is purely the level of fatigue accumulated on the previous climbing which again, in itself, I actually find very easy.
> - Almost certainly one arm is getting more pumped than the other: whichever one it is, hold on with the other arm and give your more pumped arm quick rests.
Yeah, the left was getting more pumped than the right. I corrected that by skipping clip 3, clipping bolt 4 off the righthand, and ending and starting and the shakes with the left off. I think pump levels are pretty even now.
I think I've got to the point where I just need a better horoscope for the day!
In reply to JLS:
If you really have all the mental and tactical stuff dialled, then, assuming you have about a week
- either get on it as much as you can every day until three days from being out of time, take one rest day, leaving you two climbing days
- or do not climb at all until your last two possible climbing days and then try the route again.
If you really have all the mental and tactical stuff dialled, then, assuming you have about a week
- either get on it as much as you can every day until three days from being out of time, take one rest day, leaving you two climbing days
- or do not climb at all until your last two possible climbing days and then try the route again.
Post edited at 14:38
In reply to ericinbristol:
The project is on Tunnel wall in Glen Coe which is a two hour drive for me.
I figure the weather will be ok this weekend.
I can't do the next weekend as I'm away.
That takes us to the end of September when Glen Coe is likely to be getting too cold for my old body and tiny crimps.
I think it'll need to be this weekend or next spring. How fit I'll be next spring is anybody's guess!
The project is on Tunnel wall in Glen Coe which is a two hour drive for me.
I figure the weather will be ok this weekend.
I can't do the next weekend as I'm away.
That takes us to the end of September when Glen Coe is likely to be getting too cold for my old body and tiny crimps.
I think it'll need to be this weekend or next spring. How fit I'll be next spring is anybody's guess!
In reply to JLS:
Are you breathing properly on the early section? When I find myself gasping on a route it's often because I've been holding my breath or breathing really erratically.
It's worth having a go climbing straight through if the first shake isn't great. You're stuck as is so anything new that could work is worth a try.
jk
> Do you think I could I do without waiting to getting my breath back at the second shake? The second shake isn't great. I can catch my breath and lower my heart rate but really my arms seem to neither improve or weaken. I only hover there for a bit because I'm thinking kicking off into the crux while still panting from the last hardish move isn't a good plan.
Are you breathing properly on the early section? When I find myself gasping on a route it's often because I've been holding my breath or breathing really erratically.
It's worth having a go climbing straight through if the first shake isn't great. You're stuck as is so anything new that could work is worth a try.
jk
Post edited at 15:40
No booze or cake til it's done (bit lighter, bit better rested, and a bit more motivated)
2 days rest before, maybe a really light fingerboard session the day before.
The impossible redpoint mindset: try and not care if you get it done this attempt or not!
2 days rest before, maybe a really light fingerboard session the day before.
The impossible redpoint mindset: try and not care if you get it done this attempt or not!
> In reply to Morgan Woods:
>> That's rubbish advice.....try a snickers instead :p
A Snickers? That's nuts.
In reply to JLS:
I've had another think and wonder if you could get <someone else> to put in the draws for you. Have a warm-up on the first 3 bolts of UE rather than your route. Do this again with only a 5-10 minute rest before then getting on yours for the full a muerte RP attempt.
If I'm not going up too this w/e, speak to Kev about borrowing the Joker. It should still be long enough even after getting it chopped last w/e.
I've had another think and wonder if you could get <someone else> to put in the draws for you. Have a warm-up on the first 3 bolts of UE rather than your route. Do this again with only a 5-10 minute rest before then getting on yours for the full a muerte RP attempt.
If I'm not going up too this w/e, speak to Kev about borrowing the Joker. It should still be long enough even after getting it chopped last w/e.
In reply to Fraser:
I quite like using putting the draws in as a warm-up. Stick-clipping and climbing bolt to bolt isn't too demanding. I can probably "manage" the warm-up better doing that than on the unfamiliar ground of UE. Though I have to admit that I'm concerned about how effectively I'm warming-up.
Cheers for the offer of the Joker, I'll probably be in touch on Friday.
I quite like using putting the draws in as a warm-up. Stick-clipping and climbing bolt to bolt isn't too demanding. I can probably "manage" the warm-up better doing that than on the unfamiliar ground of UE. Though I have to admit that I'm concerned about how effectively I'm warming-up.
Cheers for the offer of the Joker, I'll probably be in touch on Friday.
In reply to JLS:
"Every little helps" as they say, so I think someone else putting the draws in might be worth considering. I reckon the UE start is some of the easiest climbing on that wall, so it's not going to overload you. Ok re Friday.
"Every little helps" as they say, so I think someone else putting the draws in might be worth considering. I reckon the UE start is some of the easiest climbing on that wall, so it's not going to overload you. Ok re Friday.
In reply to JLS:
Micro shakes!
Don't forget to do a little de-pump shake between moves.
How many goes can you do in a day? Are you perfectly warmed up? Could you climb the first 4 bolts nice and smoothly, lower to the ground, rest optimally and then blast it?
Also, as someone else said (and having climbed with you) climb as hard as you can at the crux, just don't take no for an answer. Not "slappy" but pure, focussed aggression.
In the lower part, try to gauge the pressure on the crimps and keep it as light as possible, once in the crux, just crush from start to finish.
Micro shakes!
Don't forget to do a little de-pump shake between moves.
How many goes can you do in a day? Are you perfectly warmed up? Could you climb the first 4 bolts nice and smoothly, lower to the ground, rest optimally and then blast it?
Also, as someone else said (and having climbed with you) climb as hard as you can at the crux, just don't take no for an answer. Not "slappy" but pure, focussed aggression.
In the lower part, try to gauge the pressure on the crimps and keep it as light as possible, once in the crux, just crush from start to finish.
In reply to Fultonius:
Can you crush and micro shake at the same time?
I've been trying to micro shake on the crux. I couldn't crush a grape let alone such a long crux...
Can you crush and micro shake at the same time?
I've been trying to micro shake on the crux. I couldn't crush a grape let alone such a long crux...
Post edited at 16:57
In reply to JLS:
For how long?
> It may be an urban myth but I often hear Malcolm Smith quoted as saying... eat nothing but an apple a day then eat a Mars Bar before the attempt.
For how long?
In reply to jon:
There will be no news before the weekend. I have to take paid work to fund my climbing and this, unfortunately, is rather more time consuming than one could consider to be an ideally arrangement.
There will be no news before the weekend. I have to take paid work to fund my climbing and this, unfortunately, is rather more time consuming than one could consider to be an ideally arrangement.
In reply to JLS:
Ah, I wondered if you guys in Glasgow could get up there for afternoons/evenings - a couple of hours, isn't it? Still, the weather looks pretty good for the weekend.
Ah, I wondered if you guys in Glasgow could get up there for afternoons/evenings - a couple of hours, isn't it? Still, the weather looks pretty good for the weekend.
In reply to jon:
Yeah, a couple of hours drive from Glasgow and a half hour walk-in. I've had a good session there after leaving work at noon. Unfortunately I'm too busy at work at the moment to take short notice time off or I'd have been keen to get a mid-week session in. I noticed on Facebook someone I know looking for a partner for there tomorrow. He'd better not break any holds off!
Yeah, a couple of hours drive from Glasgow and a half hour walk-in. I've had a good session there after leaving work at noon. Unfortunately I'm too busy at work at the moment to take short notice time off or I'd have been keen to get a mid-week session in. I noticed on Facebook someone I know looking for a partner for there tomorrow. He'd better not break any holds off!
Post edited at 22:53
In reply to JLS:
INCOMING NEWS FROM GLEN COE stop CLIMBER BACK ON GROUND stop HE LOOKS....
INCOMING NEWS FROM GLEN COE stop CLIMBER BACK ON GROUND stop HE LOOKS....
Post edited at 16:15
In reply to Fraser:
You tease........
> INCOMING NEWS FROM GLEN COE stop CLIMBER BACK ON GROUND stop HE LOOKS....
You tease........
In reply to jon:
Thanks for your interest.
Story short: Sent.
Story longer...
Things that where different...
1) Didn't go with the Malc plan, though I did watch what I was eating and was probably one pound lighter by the end of the week.
2) I trained moderately hard during my regular tue & thu sessions, rather than taking it easy as I had the week before thinking I was tapering.
3) Borrowed Fraser's Joker rope which probably save half a pound at the crux.
4) New warm up strategy. After doing the moves while stick clipping the route I rested while my climbing partner was on her route. I then top-roped the first 4 bolts three times with 5min. rest between. Previously I'd just been going for a RP attempt.
5) Maybe it was the better warm-up, maybe I was just having a better day but I found a point mid crux just before where I was failing where I was able to get in a wee shake.
First RP attempt (of the day) I fell after the new "wee shake" having miss cued on a snatch but I was feeling strong (enough) and the second RP went fine.
As is the way with these things, the day you do it, it doesn't feel *that* hard.
No power screams where issued during the send. Was obviously was too easy for me.
Thanks for your interest.
Story short: Sent.
Story longer...
Things that where different...
1) Didn't go with the Malc plan, though I did watch what I was eating and was probably one pound lighter by the end of the week.
2) I trained moderately hard during my regular tue & thu sessions, rather than taking it easy as I had the week before thinking I was tapering.
3) Borrowed Fraser's Joker rope which probably save half a pound at the crux.
4) New warm up strategy. After doing the moves while stick clipping the route I rested while my climbing partner was on her route. I then top-roped the first 4 bolts three times with 5min. rest between. Previously I'd just been going for a RP attempt.
5) Maybe it was the better warm-up, maybe I was just having a better day but I found a point mid crux just before where I was failing where I was able to get in a wee shake.
First RP attempt (of the day) I fell after the new "wee shake" having miss cued on a snatch but I was feeling strong (enough) and the second RP went fine.
As is the way with these things, the day you do it, it doesn't feel *that* hard.
No power screams where issued during the send. Was obviously was too easy for me.
Post edited at 21:24
In reply to JLS:
Sometimes everything just clicks, doesn't it? So what's the next one then - obviously after post send depression wears off?
Sometimes everything just clicks, doesn't it? So what's the next one then - obviously after post send depression wears off?
In reply to jon:
Yup, sometimes it's just a case of waiting for planets to align.
Oh, I'm in no hurry for something super hard for me.
My climbing partner is psyched for The Tribes Woman at 7c+ on the same crag. I expect I'll make a start on that in the spring after a lot of training over the winter.
I was trying a 7b at very conditions dependant Dumby that I couldn't do before it got too warm, no doubt I'll be back on that soon.
Yup, sometimes it's just a case of waiting for planets to align.
Oh, I'm in no hurry for something super hard for me.
My climbing partner is psyched for The Tribes Woman at 7c+ on the same crag. I expect I'll make a start on that in the spring after a lot of training over the winter.
I was trying a 7b at very conditions dependant Dumby that I couldn't do before it got too warm, no doubt I'll be back on that soon.
Post edited at 21:41
In reply to JLS:
As with Jason, I was following this thread with interest - good effort, glad it all came together for you!
As with Jason, I was following this thread with interest - good effort, glad it all came together for you!
In reply to Stuart S:
Cheers. Are you in a similar position with another project or is it specifically "The Third Eye" that is a target?
Cheers. Are you in a similar position with another project or is it specifically "The Third Eye" that is a target?
Post edited at 09:35
In reply to JLS:
It was more for my wife, Amanda, who's been frustrating close to redpointing the Portlethen Terrier for weeks now!
Unfortunately, the Tunnel Wall is a bit to far from Aberdeen to be appealing for a long-term project, though I did really enjoy my one session on Uncertain Emotions.
It was more for my wife, Amanda, who's been frustrating close to redpointing the Portlethen Terrier for weeks now!
Unfortunately, the Tunnel Wall is a bit to far from Aberdeen to be appealing for a long-term project, though I did really enjoy my one session on Uncertain Emotions.
In reply to Stuart S:
Ah right. What conclusions have you reached?
Believe in "marginal gains" theory?
I've shared a crag with Amanda once.
Ah right. What conclusions have you reached?
Believe in "marginal gains" theory?
I've shared a crag with Amanda once.
In reply to JLS:
I don't think there's any one thing to change that will make a difference - it's just a case of waiting for the planets to align to get that extra 1 or 2% better performance that will result in the send.
I've only once had to put in the sort of effort that you and Amanda do on projects (Savage Amusement at Balmashanner, a few years ago) and the experience put me off trying things that hard again!
I don't think there's any one thing to change that will make a difference - it's just a case of waiting for the planets to align to get that extra 1 or 2% better performance that will result in the send.
I've only once had to put in the sort of effort that you and Amanda do on projects (Savage Amusement at Balmashanner, a few years ago) and the experience put me off trying things that hard again!
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