UKC

Power Scream timing

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 JLS 08 Sep 2014
How do you time your power screams?

Should the power scream be initiated in anticipation of a hard move or only once it becomes apparent that there is a possibility that a move in progress is in danger of being dropped?

Also, is it important that power screams are used sparingly to maintain there effectiveness or can the be used at will without consiquence?
 JoshOvki 08 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

You must make sure you have a reasonable crowd around you, and on something no easier than VDiff.
 andyman666999 08 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Think that it is like in martial arts, it tenses all your core muscles so it means that your contact strength is highest, stopping swings etc.
 beardy mike 08 Sep 2014
In reply to andyman666999:

I imagine it works like breathing out, i.e. exhale/powerscream as you pull through the move.
 Furzy Sleight 08 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Is that like when you go back into previous lives?
OP JLS 08 Sep 2014
In reply to andyman666999:

So useful in your book. Timing?
 DaveHK 08 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to andyman666999)
> Timing?

Just prior to multiple sphincter failure.

 andyman666999 08 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Definitely, always end up yelling when I am giving it my all. Sometimes makes my mates laugh but definitely works. I usually yell when I throw for something and stick it.
In reply to JLS:

I think they're mis named. I make noises when im unsure of the outcome of a move. Ever heard someone power scream up a slab? Watch this space...
In reply to mike kann:

You are correct. It should be done on the out breath which is a pilates principle.
cb294 09 Sep 2014
In reply to I like climbing:

> You are correct. It should be done on the out breath which is a pilates principle.


What a deep insight. Can you imagine an inhaling power scream?

Mmmmhhhhhhhhhrrrrrrgghhhhhhhhhhhfffffff ???

Joking aside, as in the martial arts, screaming can help increase core tension and give you a bit of extra power for a short spike.

Obviously screaming is traditionally only used to attract climbers of the opposite sex. To establish a crag pecking order same sex climbers should instead be intimidated into submission by power grunting, especially on offwidth routes.

CB


 peppermill 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Any time you're not climbing at an indoor bouldering wall

;p
 nicmac 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:
I usually save them till just after I have fallen off
Post edited at 07:41
In reply to JLS:

> So useful in your book. Timing?

Timing? When you are at home, in a sound-proof room, away from any crag I'm also at!
 The Lemming 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

This is a tongue in cheek op, isn't it?
Andy Gamisou 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Are you with or without beanie, and is shirt off or on?
 Enty 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

> a move in progress is in danger of being dropped?

This

> Also, is it important that power screams are used sparingly to maintain there effectiveness or can the be used at will without consiquence?

And this.

I thought I'd be the last person on the planet to benefit from a PS but it definitely works for me.

E
 Aigen 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

My misses is an obstetrician and when women are in labour they tell them to try and not scream because it reduces the amount of tension your muscles make.
 don macb 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Ha! Loving your work

Speaking for myself: I didn't choose the power scream life... it chose ME.

True story.
 Bulls Crack 09 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Scream when you like, just nowhere near me thanks.
 krikoman 10 Sep 2014
In reply to JLS:

Just after the vinegar strokes.
In reply to Aigen:

> (In reply to JLS)
>
> My misses is an obstetrician and when women are in labour they tell them to try and not scream because it reduces the amount of tension your muscles make.

Which is why the power grunt is much more effective.
Post edited at 12:49

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