UKC

Nor' Nor' Buttress on the East Face of Tryfan

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 BusyLizzie 12 Sep 2014
On pitch 5 of this Diff the guide book says: go past the jutting-out rock and then up the exposed right-hand edge of the slab.

We found this route a bit difficult to find, but we were definitely at the correct place for pitch 5, having belayed below the jutting rock. The slab above it is indeed exposed, and very difficult to protect. We thought it was a lot harder than Diff for that reason - fine for the second, though. I was seconding and very very glad I wasn't leading!!

Any thoughts from anyone who knows this climb?
In reply to BusyLizzie:

Is this more holiday!?!? Or instead of going to Russia to advise them on the finer points of land registration/annexation of Ukraine!? I trust you are having a nice time.
 Mal Grey 12 Sep 2014
In reply to BusyLizzie:

My memory, from 20+ years ago, suggests a very brief harder slab move, on the most exposed pitch, amongst an otherwise moderate route between terraces. Perhaps 4a? It was my first experience of leading a "proper" multi-pitch route, and we did have a few route finding issues, but overall the grade felt fine.

OP BusyLizzie 13 Sep 2014
In reply to Mal Grey:

Yes, thanks, that sounds about right. A lot of it was moderate, but the slab was hair-raising.

Quite a lot of the route wasn't rock!

Anyway, I should also say that we had a fantastic day in glorious weather, beautiful views, very few folk around. Really excellent.
OP BusyLizzie 13 Sep 2014
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Hey Nik. Yes, I sneaked out for a couple of days; Crib Goch Wednesday, Tryfan Thursday, in conditions as splendid as you and I had on that day in July. I shall have to start saying nice things about the weather gods.


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