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Hi
Just wondering which crags would be worth a trip in the county Durham area?
Just wondering which crags would be worth a trip in the county Durham area?
In reply to Steve Crowe:
I stand corrected on Goldsborough, I didn't think it was in Durham - I'd assumed N Yorks/Cleveland.
Any more actually worth travelling to from outside Durham?
I stand corrected on Goldsborough, I didn't think it was in Durham - I'd assumed N Yorks/Cleveland.
Any more actually worth travelling to from outside Durham?
Post edited at 08:40
In reply to mic:
Among all the northern counties, Durham is remarkable in having next to no significant climbing. Just the bits mentioned and other odds and sods like Holwick Scar. This despite the Northern Pennines being the largest area of land over 2000ft in England. Geology is a cruel mistress.
However it is distinguished by having possibly the worst crag in the country in Castle Eden Dene.
Among all the northern counties, Durham is remarkable in having next to no significant climbing. Just the bits mentioned and other odds and sods like Holwick Scar. This despite the Northern Pennines being the largest area of land over 2000ft in England. Geology is a cruel mistress.
However it is distinguished by having possibly the worst crag in the country in Castle Eden Dene.
In reply to Andy Long:
I do wish I had taken that on board before Miss Busy applied to Uni there!!!
> Among all the northern counties, Durham is remarkable in having next to no significant climbing. <
I do wish I had taken that on board before Miss Busy applied to Uni there!!!
In reply to mic:
There are a few good routes at Causey Arch (S - E5), http://www.climbonline.co.uk/causey_quarry.htm
if you don't mind a bit of dirty rock.
There are many fantastic top rope lines (5a - 6c) at Howns Gill http://www.climbonline.co.uk/howns_gill.htm
As mentioned Goldsborough is good for a bit of grit.
I wouldn't bother with Holwick the lines are overgrown and a bit loose and not very good.
There is a bit of fun to be had at Frankland. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9035
There are a few good routes at Causey Arch (S - E5), http://www.climbonline.co.uk/causey_quarry.htm
if you don't mind a bit of dirty rock.
There are many fantastic top rope lines (5a - 6c) at Howns Gill http://www.climbonline.co.uk/howns_gill.htm
As mentioned Goldsborough is good for a bit of grit.
I wouldn't bother with Holwick the lines are overgrown and a bit loose and not very good.
There is a bit of fun to be had at Frankland. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9035
In reply to BusyLizzie:
But drive an hour in just about any direction and there is excellent cragging. If you're based in Reading then you'd probably otherwise never have the excuse to go an hour further up the A1 and visit Bowden Doors and Kyloe, sandstone gems seem little known outside the north east, but that will give the best grit in the country a run for its money on a sunny day, even in winter.
But drive an hour in just about any direction and there is excellent cragging. If you're based in Reading then you'd probably otherwise never have the excuse to go an hour further up the A1 and visit Bowden Doors and Kyloe, sandstone gems seem little known outside the north east, but that will give the best grit in the country a run for its money on a sunny day, even in winter.
Post edited at 12:30
In reply to Andy Long: "However it is distinguished by having possibly the worst crag in the country in Castle Eden Dene."
Close call Andy but the adjacent Heselden Dene is probably worse... however it is true to say there is very little worthwhile climbing in Durham county. The bouldering at Marsden is not worth traveling to but worth the effort if you are stuck in the area.... but very tide and conditions dependent. My earlier comment re Lumley Bridge is serious. It is not a " proper crag" but it has several really good, but quite tough, traverses and numerous short routes / boulder problems. Once again not worth the travel but good spot if stuck.
Close call Andy but the adjacent Heselden Dene is probably worse... however it is true to say there is very little worthwhile climbing in Durham county. The bouldering at Marsden is not worth traveling to but worth the effort if you are stuck in the area.... but very tide and conditions dependent. My earlier comment re Lumley Bridge is serious. It is not a " proper crag" but it has several really good, but quite tough, traverses and numerous short routes / boulder problems. Once again not worth the travel but good spot if stuck.
In reply to mic:
Having lived there for 15 years and had a good look around, Causey without a doubt.
Having lived there for 15 years and had a good look around, Causey without a doubt.
In reply to BusyLizzie:
Kepier Woods
Is very small but perfectly formed on the banks of the river wear and walking distance from the university.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/kepier_woods.htm
Kepier Woods
Is very small but perfectly formed on the banks of the river wear and walking distance from the university.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/kepier_woods.htm
In reply to Blue Straggler:
The Barton quarry is banned but good ... the stuff close by on the slip road is pretty poor. Causey and Kepier are ok...much easier routes and bouldering but can get very dirty, especially after rain.
The Barton quarry is banned but good ... the stuff close by on the slip road is pretty poor. Causey and Kepier are ok...much easier routes and bouldering but can get very dirty, especially after rain.
In reply to jonny taylor:
Superb crags, but widely known and appreciated. It's just that they're away from centres of population.
> Bowden Doors and Kyloe, sandstone gems seem little known outside the north east
Superb crags, but widely known and appreciated. It's just that they're away from centres of population.
In reply to Andy Long:
I wasn't sure, there was some video on here a while back of a bunch of people (?Hazel Findlay) making the great trek up to this unknown area of the northeast where it turns out there is some great cragging that nobody ever goes to. At least that's my memory. Maybe I'm exaggerating.
I wasn't sure, there was some video on here a while back of a bunch of people (?Hazel Findlay) making the great trek up to this unknown area of the northeast where it turns out there is some great cragging that nobody ever goes to. At least that's my memory. Maybe I'm exaggerating.
In reply to mic:
I was involved with Stew Wilson in checking and detailing many crags in the Durham / North Yorkshire area in the "North of England" many moons ago.
Not been back to the Denes - Castle Eden and Hestleden etc since then. Memorable moment when looking for (i think it was) Red Crag in Castle Eden Dene - but found it had fallen down !! Enjoyed Archangel - but the area is not a place to get excited about - but that was in the 1970's !!
Goldsborough Carr - however is in Durham - quite chuffed how this has been developed since we put it in the guidebook.
Had a good time a few years ago bouldering at Kenton Hill - just across the valley from G Carr which was a great little place.
Holwick Scar - not been since a friend was threatened by a farmer with a gun - in the 1980's !
Causey Quarry - is just in Durham (I think) - north of Stanley
Kepier Quarry - is near Durham - and because of that is probably worth visiting
There was (and possibly still is) Cleadon Crag - near Sunderland
Information on various websites.
The North Yorkshire Moors are not that far away - and well worth going to - they do overlook Durham
I was involved with Stew Wilson in checking and detailing many crags in the Durham / North Yorkshire area in the "North of England" many moons ago.
Not been back to the Denes - Castle Eden and Hestleden etc since then. Memorable moment when looking for (i think it was) Red Crag in Castle Eden Dene - but found it had fallen down !! Enjoyed Archangel - but the area is not a place to get excited about - but that was in the 1970's !!
Goldsborough Carr - however is in Durham - quite chuffed how this has been developed since we put it in the guidebook.
Had a good time a few years ago bouldering at Kenton Hill - just across the valley from G Carr which was a great little place.
Holwick Scar - not been since a friend was threatened by a farmer with a gun - in the 1980's !
Causey Quarry - is just in Durham (I think) - north of Stanley
Kepier Quarry - is near Durham - and because of that is probably worth visiting
There was (and possibly still is) Cleadon Crag - near Sunderland
Information on various websites.
The North Yorkshire Moors are not that far away - and well worth going to - they do overlook Durham
In reply to is2:
The best place to climb in your village!
> Lumley Bridge is by far the best place to climb in Durham.
The best place to climb in your village!
In reply to mic:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16374
Maybe not the best but good fun on a nice evening. Lots of potential for many new routes here, top outs very dodgy so the routes have become more bouldering but with a good ledge after the crux's its easy to traverse off to an easy down climb. Been visiting this place for a while after my dad found it years ago. I'd take the trip up to Bowden etc. and defiantly visit Goldsborough and causey all great days out. Northumberland is the place to be over Durham though. Some great bouldering at Rothly too.
Actually just go to Northumberland!
Sam
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16374
Maybe not the best but good fun on a nice evening. Lots of potential for many new routes here, top outs very dodgy so the routes have become more bouldering but with a good ledge after the crux's its easy to traverse off to an easy down climb. Been visiting this place for a while after my dad found it years ago. I'd take the trip up to Bowden etc. and defiantly visit Goldsborough and causey all great days out. Northumberland is the place to be over Durham though. Some great bouldering at Rothly too.
Actually just go to Northumberland!
Sam
In reply to mic:
If you don't like crowds try here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17647
I guarantee you won't be disappointed (and it's in County Durham - just).
If you don't like crowds try here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17647
I guarantee you won't be disappointed (and it's in County Durham - just).
In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Having been born and brought up in Spennymoor (for my sins), I used to enjoy visits to Westerton quarry on my occasional visists home, as described in my (your) old brown "North of England" guide book. I was a bit perplexed one day when I couldn't find it - until I realised that I was actually standing in it! Landfill has a lot to answer for
JW
Having been born and brought up in Spennymoor (for my sins), I used to enjoy visits to Westerton quarry on my occasional visists home, as described in my (your) old brown "North of England" guide book. I was a bit perplexed one day when I couldn't find it - until I realised that I was actually standing in it! Landfill has a lot to answer for
JW
In reply to John Ww:
I had that same problem when went over there. Shame - it wasn't the best crag in the world but worth a visit if in the area.
I had that same problem when went over there. Shame - it wasn't the best crag in the world but worth a visit if in the area.
In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Steady, Ron - Cleadon Crag's still there but 'there' is Quarry Lane, South Shields, not Sunderland. The UN's been called in over less... Seriously, it was my local bouldering pre-uni, and there are still a few nice 5b to 6a probs I go back for when visiting.
Steady, Ron - Cleadon Crag's still there but 'there' is Quarry Lane, South Shields, not Sunderland. The UN's been called in over less... Seriously, it was my local bouldering pre-uni, and there are still a few nice 5b to 6a probs I go back for when visiting.
In reply to BusyLizzie:
Looking on the bright side, it's still better than Cambridge... I'd echo Steve Crowe re Kepier's bouldering. We also found a few lines to top-rope in the Permian limestone quarry in the nearby village of Pittington. That was 1979-82; don't know if still there/accessible. For a pukka days cragging, I'd recommend bite the bullet from the start and befriend/pay/take hostage someone with a car and go out to Northumberland sandstone, Crag Lough/Peel Crag dolerite or over to The Lakes.
Looking on the bright side, it's still better than Cambridge... I'd echo Steve Crowe re Kepier's bouldering. We also found a few lines to top-rope in the Permian limestone quarry in the nearby village of Pittington. That was 1979-82; don't know if still there/accessible. For a pukka days cragging, I'd recommend bite the bullet from the start and befriend/pay/take hostage someone with a car and go out to Northumberland sandstone, Crag Lough/Peel Crag dolerite or over to The Lakes.
In reply to Gary Coggon:
Yes - and she's going to Durham (very happily) because she missed her offer from Cambridge!! I am sure I will find ways to climb on the way to and from Durham, and indeed to pop in to Durham on my way to and from elsewhere! nice to be on such a small island.
> Looking on the bright side, it's still better than Cambridge...
Yes - and she's going to Durham (very happily) because she missed her offer from Cambridge!! I am sure I will find ways to climb on the way to and from Durham, and indeed to pop in to Durham on my way to and from elsewhere! nice to be on such a small island.
In reply to Gary Coggon:
Close to Pittington ..... Can't believe Houghton Graveyard has not had a mention. Bolted sports venue 1 mins walk in, 15 mins from Durham City. Probably a topo on Steve Crowe's Climbonline.co.uk website. Definitely not the best crag anywhere, even Co. Durham but comparable with most of the crags so far mentioned. ( Except of course, Lumley Bridge.)
Close to Pittington ..... Can't believe Houghton Graveyard has not had a mention. Bolted sports venue 1 mins walk in, 15 mins from Durham City. Probably a topo on Steve Crowe's Climbonline.co.uk website. Definitely not the best crag anywhere, even Co. Durham but comparable with most of the crags so far mentioned. ( Except of course, Lumley Bridge.)
In reply to is2:
As far as if recall climbing has been banned at Houghton graveyard due to problems with both 'chavs' drinking and causing trouble and climbers leaving rubbish and other 'deposits'.
Causey is a little overgrown at the moment but still enjoyable for a short trip. The top is getting to the stage where there is going to be an accident soon though.
As far as if recall climbing has been banned at Houghton graveyard due to problems with both 'chavs' drinking and causing trouble and climbers leaving rubbish and other 'deposits'.
Causey is a little overgrown at the moment but still enjoyable for a short trip. The top is getting to the stage where there is going to be an accident soon though.
In reply to didntcomelast:
Although permission has not been granted for climbing at Houghton Graveyard, a climbing ban is not enforced either.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/houghton_graveyard.htm
Although permission has not been granted for climbing at Houghton Graveyard, a climbing ban is not enforced either.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/houghton_graveyard.htm
In reply to mic:
Surprised no metion of North York Moors (unless I missed a post) - lots of crags just over the Durham border!
Surprised no metion of North York Moors (unless I missed a post) - lots of crags just over the Durham border!
In reply to Will 62:
I think it got a small mention earlier by one poster, even the NYM to many people is seen as a backwater although there is absolutely loads to go at now, with much new climbing to be had if your feeling adventurous or your willing to walk more than 10 minutes from the car.
Maybe besides the excellent Goldsbrough, County Durham as an area doesn't seem to offer that much for most people, but since I seen this topic when it was put up last week, someone had mentioned Kelton Hill along with several other promising venues, and having visited there this week I'd recommend it to any keen boulderer as there's some great little problems in a nice setting less than 30 minutes walk!
I think it got a small mention earlier by one poster, even the NYM to many people is seen as a backwater although there is absolutely loads to go at now, with much new climbing to be had if your feeling adventurous or your willing to walk more than 10 minutes from the car.
Maybe besides the excellent Goldsbrough, County Durham as an area doesn't seem to offer that much for most people, but since I seen this topic when it was put up last week, someone had mentioned Kelton Hill along with several other promising venues, and having visited there this week I'd recommend it to any keen boulderer as there's some great little problems in a nice setting less than 30 minutes walk!
In reply to felt:
we were too soft for Howns - Causey on steroids
> Having lived there for 15 years and had a good look around, Causey without a doubt.
we were too soft for Howns - Causey on steroids
In reply to mic:
I did most of the routes at Hounds Gill with Malcolm Lowerson when we developed the crag. The high level traverse was particularily interesting.. Malcolm fell off the traverse across the main wall and was held by two small wires. Glad my belay was a bolt. Malcolm then came off the last pitch leading to the top. He was round the corner and fell onto a peg swinging back round to me like a bat in the dark. It was now 10:00pm and it was October. I followed and I remember remarking at least it was a good peg, only to be told he had previously cut the peg down and it was only half an inch long. The belay was a couple of wires. Scary stuff.
I did most of the routes at Hounds Gill with Malcolm Lowerson when we developed the crag. The high level traverse was particularily interesting.. Malcolm fell off the traverse across the main wall and was held by two small wires. Glad my belay was a bolt. Malcolm then came off the last pitch leading to the top. He was round the corner and fell onto a peg swinging back round to me like a bat in the dark. It was now 10:00pm and it was October. I followed and I remember remarking at least it was a good peg, only to be told he had previously cut the peg down and it was only half an inch long. The belay was a couple of wires. Scary stuff.
In reply to malk:
I don't think so.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=16443
> we were too soft for Howns - Causey on steroids
I don't think so.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=16443
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