UKC

Ok collective brain of UKC just wondering if you might be able to suggest some quality routes on kalymnos for, shall we say, the less technically gifted and particularly those of us who sometime struggle to with the concept of steep.


Of course I have a copy of the latest guide book but I thought that a personal recommendation would help me sort out the truly outstanding from the 'just' three star routes 😀

I would be looking for routes up to about 6b and preferably not too thuggy, so hit me up with your favorites and hopefully I will be able to confirm the quality when I head out there in October 😀

In reply to GravitySucks:

Only been once and it was in 2008 but iirc the nicest sub-6 stuff we found was at Dodoni. That "nursery slab" (Kastelli is it) was decent mileage but all VERY samey. I don't have the guidebook to hand. At 6a+ Monakiki Elia is essential but I only toproped it on that trip (on my "rest day"!). Maybe classed as thuggy and steep but you can spread out for rests all the way if you use your noggin. If you have the guidebook you will know all this though

In reply to GravitySucks:

There are many superb route up to 6b/6b+ if you get round to Sea Breeze/Arginonda/Arhi. Could still be warm round there in October, early starts or cloudy days needed maybe.

The cliffs aren't as steep (or as polished) as the stuff above the village, and much of the rock is magnificent,



Chris

In reply to GravitySucks:

Dolphin bay has a great selection of lower grade route in a fantastic setting:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3210

Alex

In reply to a13x:

Thanks for the info so far, can I take this opportunity to muddy the waters a little further As I will be travelling with some climbers who are quite capable of tearing the skin off a rice pudding and will therefore be in search of some slightly more testing challenges (anything from 7a to 8a if the lies are to be believed), does such a place exist on Kalymnos where we can each satisfy our climbing ambitions without having to go our separate ways ?

Just remember we are all equal but I am more equal that the rest of the team ! so keep those low grade classics coming What are the top five routes on the island that don’t exceed the dizzying heights of 6b ?

Your thoughts are much appreciated

In reply to GravitySucks:

Kastri - Enchanted Castle 6b, X-Over 6a+, Side Cut 6a+
Ghost Kitchen - Joy in the Garden 6a+, Pic Pic 6b
Arhi - Komak 6a+, Axe 6b, Monolith 6b+(but its not)
Summertime - Ammohostos Vasilevousa 6a
Afternoon - Janas Kitchen 6b
Symplegades - Drama - 6a+

To be honest in 4 visits I've only experienced a couple of crap routes. The quality of the climbing here is amazing.

In reply to GravitySucks: Grande Grotta is next to Afternoon, easy enough to do some warm-ups at Afternoon and nip round the corner for overhanging tufa fun. Ghost Kitchen has a lot around the 6a/6b+ mark, as well as some good 7a/b routes.

In reply to a13x:

No doubt I'm being dim here, but could someone explain the grading system being used in this link, please? I see it now and then at climbing walls. It looks like English tech grades, but I thought sport routes in Europe used the French system, so it goes 4, 4+, 5, 5+, 6a, 6b, 6c, etc.

In reply to Tony Naylor: It's French, but they've extended the lower grades with a, b, c.

In reply to GravitySucks:

Arginonta would be worth a day for a mixed group. Although I'm a bumbly, Pornokini 6a is good value, and one of our team enjoyed Wild Sex at 6b. There is a clutch of 7's mixed up with the 5s and 6s here, so all could find a day's worth.

On Telendos at Irox I enjoyed The White Rose 6a, next to Ingleton at 6b+ (too hard for me) with some 7s and 8s nearby. There's also Glaros and Pescatore further to the right, with a good mix of middle and harder grades, and although I've only been to Pescatore, friends have spoken highly of Glaros sector.

As suggested by Chris Craggs and Gridnorth, Arhi takes some beating. My son thought Komak 6a+ and Axe 6b at Arhi Far Left both excellent routes. At Belgian Chocolates, Thia Fotisi 6a+ was memorable and not thuggy.

I've found all the 'musical note' icon routes in the guide to be worthwhile.

Hope this helps.
Have fun

Dave

In reply to GravitySucks:

Kalymnos is the only place I've climbed where the climbs below 7a are as good lines, on as good rock, as the climbs above 7a.

I think you could turn up at almost any of the Kalymnos crags and find some brilliant climbs 6a-6b. As well as some in the higher grades too.

Standouts for me over trips in 2008 and 2009 are:
Monahiki Elia 6a+ right of Grande Grotta
Carpe Diem 6b ditto
Hara Kiri 6b+ Spartacus sector
Argo Navis 6a Odyssey
Beautiful Helen 6a+ Iliada (this stands out for me as one of the sport climbs I've most enjoyed ever)

One recommendation - put a little bit of time in beforehand to get fit, as much as you can, do laps on indoor routes etc. It will make the whole trip so much more fulfilling.

In reply to GravitySucks:

For a mixed team, also consider the beach; prophitis Andreas (central), and, to some extent dodoni. Getting the update for the first two is essential.

Best, thomas

In reply to all:

Again, many thanks to all those who have responded, there is certainly a lot of good information to digest. It would seem that the whole team can operate at their chosen grade without having to head in different directions and there should be plenty of quality routes for the less hardcore elements of the team

The last posting mentions some updates to the latest guide (2010), could some kind person point me to where I can access these updates.

In reply to GravitySucks:

http://climbkalymnos.com/

Click on the dude in the orange T-shirt,


Chris

In reply to GravitySucks:

Or at glaros bar in massouri from sue and steve where you also will encounter donation boxes for rescue team and bolt fund - contributions welcome.

Thomas

In reply to tjekel:

Thanks for the info, I will try to pop in for a beer and to make a contribution for the good work !

In reply to GravitySucks:

If you can get Steve to smile I'll buy you a pint.

In reply to GridNorth:

We've managed, it's just a question of technique

In reply to tjekel:

Must have been a generous tip.....

In reply to GravitySucks:

Ammohostos Vasilevousa at Summertime was my absolute favourite route there, brilliant 3 star 6a with amazing scenery to boot. As an overall crag to check out I'd reccomend Odyssey. Enjoy

In reply to full stottie:
I suggested technique, not money . You may have another try, but solutions can only be tested individually and in situ.

In reply to tjekel:

Ha Ha! But I'm sure it was Steve who told me that money was THE technique with a scouser. I'll have another go in 10 days time and report back.

Dave

In reply to full stottie:

We had our 21 month old daughter kissing him. Looking forward to your report to top that.

In reply to tjekel:

I'm going to have nightmares thinking about what I might have to do now. I doubt I can match sacrifices on that scale.

In reply to all:



Thought I'd resurrect this old thread rather than creating a new one, being a
bit of a numpty, I have left it too late to get some wheels for the time I
am on Kalymnos as, being a numpty (have I mentioned this?) I appear to have
booked my trip at the same time as the Climbing Festival. All scooters on the
island have been booked for weeks and Shank's Pony seems to be the only
available option ;-(

We will be staying in Masouri, so I was wondering which crags are accessible
on foot and how long the walk in's are ? and are these the crags that the
Festival will be centered around, I guess it is inevitable but I'm not too keen
on displaying my puny climbing ability in front of assorted Euro Wads (and
queuing for the privilege!)

Alternatively if anyone knows of a less mainstream scooter hire place that
might have one or two left then I would be very grateful for the tip off !

In reply to GravitySucks: there is a bus, you know (or don't, I suppose!) It leaves masouri around 9.30 heading for Emporios. The afternoon bus returns from E at about 4pm. That gives you access to about 90% of all climbs, with plenty of time to climb them

In reply to HB1:

Now that's what I call valuable information have I mentioned that I am a bit of a numpty ! I wasn't aware that there was a bus service so thanks for the heads up

In reply to HB1: The bus is good value, there's a huge range of crags along the road to Arginonta - Summertime is the furthest crag I'd walk to from Masouri. You could always hire a bike, or go over to Telendos as well. We didn't hire a scooter last year, and didn't feel we missed out on any crags.

In reply to GravitySucks:

We were there during the climbing festival in 2013. All scooters in Massouri were hired. But after a day, a friendly hotel (Kalypso Studios) in Myrties managed to find us a scooter for hire in Panormos. It's worth asking around. And the bus is a good option.

In reply to GravitySucks:

A tip about the bus - you have to buy tickets from one of the small shops/supermarkets, as the bus driver doesn't sell them himself (unless its changed since last year). The bus stop is at the top/west end of Massouri on the way out to the crags - the bus goes round a one-way system so doesn't come up the main street. There used to be 4 buses a day from Massouri to Emporious and back. They'll stop at any of the crags for you. Its only a couple of euros each way.

If climbing around Arginonta/Sea Breeze/Arhi/Belgian Chocolates etc, the bus stop is close to Katerina's and the Sea Breeze bars. Handy if you have time to wait for the bus by mistake
Dave

In reply to full stottie:

All tickets are sold ON the bus now (at least this was so April 2014). The shopkeepers etc were fed up with selling tickets, but getting no commission I believe

In reply to HB1:

Thanks for that. Makes it easier too. That's a change from 2013.

In reply to tjekel:

We went, we came back, we tried, we failed. Must have caught him on a normal day.

Respect to you, but 21 month-olds are lethal weapons.

Dave

In reply to full stottie:

but I fear she'll get older and less appealing to steve.

In reply to tjekel:

For the former, very likely, for the latter, let's hope so.