UKC

Went for a walk in Cwm Idwal and this route just drew my eye. Anybody been on it? E3 or 4 anybody hazard a guess at a french grade? Is it as bold as it reputationor not too bad. Not climbed much recently and am fighting a heart v's brain battle

In reply to ffati:

It's really bold, glad I didn't know the reputation when I got on it! Not french hard, more classic bold rhyolite trad, mostly on the feet.

In reply to ffati:

Its a great route. Used to be given E4 6a now it is E3 5c which is correct. If you're not too fazed by quite spaced (but decent) gear then it's really not difficult climbing.

In reply to ffati:

Bold but steady - E3/4 5c; definitely no 6a moves. F6a+ maybe? Hard to say really as it's all on your feet...

In reply to ffati:
E4 5c for the o/s, if you fall off on the traverse you could possibly deck !

In reply to ffati:

Definitely a bold one. I'd say nudging on E4 5c, I found the crux to be gaining the thread and although you can get some gear below this I didn't get anything good (V. small RP - possibly 2 of them from memory) and there isn't any gear below that will stop you before you deck.

Up to there is technical slab with no gear. As others have said its all on your feet until you clip the thread but then its pretty steady.

Its a brill route though! Maybe do Suicide Wall 1 & 2 first of you haven't to get dialed into the style? I did Route 1 as a warm-up and then did CP - a great day!

Enjoy!

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:

Cheers duncan have already done those two routes, the style suits me which is why i think im considering it even though ive not been climbing much recently. How does it compare to something like weassles rip my flesh? Do i need anything special gear wise and is the thread insitue?

In reply to ffati:

Definitely easier climbing than Weasels, though the crux as I say is bolder. I took a skyhook which I used on the upper section though this is easy (5a ish), a comprehensive set of RPs and maybe some microcams may make the crux safer. I wouldn't have had any micro-cams I don't think.

The thread is in-situ, yes - defo look up and check before setting off though would be OK to place on lead I think?

Its a soft E4, but will reward confidence and good technique - once you get to the thread you have done all the hard climbing.

Dunc

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Craggsy you can't say CP is 6a+ if you think the Axe is 6a+ aswell!

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:



Yes you're right - Capital Punishment is F6a,


Chris

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:




I thought the tape thread looked very tired/crap in June, easy enough to place your own, worth chopping the old one in this respect. I didn't think to at the time. . .

In reply to ffati:

oh and also it's absolutely BRILLIANT, forgot to mention that

In reply to Chris Craggs:

A long time (about 17 years) since I did it but I'd say that E4 5c is about right. Quite stiff for 5c especially if not chalked. As for French grade, if it had decent gear then it would be F6b, I can't think of a single F6a (or 6a+) that I've done that's harder.

In reply to ffati:

I know two very good climbers who have had serious falls on it and the general consensus is E4. Wise to approach it as an E4.

In reply to ffati:


I had an easier time leading CP than seconding WRMF. I remember being bemused as to where the (tehcnically) hard bit was but there was some boldness.

In reply to ffati:
As others have said. From my logbook:

Fantastic boldtastic! Good climbing throughout, a bit of a shame about the two ledges but I guess they add spice if you come off. Technical but not strenuous and not that hard for 5c but sustained and requires focus. The gearless slab to get to the gear is E3 5b, do not fall! Relieved to find a good cam in an undercut pocket round the arete, also had an ok number 1 nut and a poor friend there - on the whole, a good cluster of gear to protect to moves to the thread. Mild E3 5c for that bit. The thread is manky but it was easy enough to add my own. Jugtastic from the thread to the ledge, then interest is maintained on the final steepening to the belay.

I don't remember what size of friend...