UKC

Hi again UKC,

Planning to go to Uphill Quarry to do two sport 7b that's are there (Living Dead, Chiming for You). Based on guidebook as well as UKC descriptions I am little bit worried about the state of the bolting. How sketchy is it? Will I encounter four or so bolts on 25 meters long climb? Is it worth going there in the first place?

Thanks!

In reply to alibaba:
Chiming For You has a chossy start and very high first bolt. You'd probably be happier with a wire or cam on the way to that bolt. There is also a runout in the middle and you could place a small cam, but it is on very easy ground. Basically the same issue of a very high first bolt for Living Dead. I'd put it this way: if you only like safe sport climbs you won't be happy. If you have done VS trad or don't get to worried about runouts on easy ground you won't be bothered. The routes are excellent, especially CFY. Well worth the visit.

In reply to ericinbristol:

Thanks Eric!

Not that much bothered with runouts high above the ground if hitting the ground or a ledge is not an option (could the trad gear be replaced by long sling(s) and a biner?).
Also, is it possible to preclip first draw using clip stick (how high is it more or less?)?

Thanks for your time!

In reply to alibaba:
You're not going to have a clip stick long enough to get to the first clip if I recall correctly and I am pretty sure I do. On CFY yes once you are up at the first bolt you could hang a krab off some long slings.

I suggest that when you get to the top of CFY, you can then lower off you can reach the first bolt of LD and hang a krab off some long slings for that. The two routes share a lower off.

By the way, if you are going to be working either route, take yet more long slings for the lower off as the lower off is set back on a ledge and the rope drag will be a right pain. The edge of the ledge is sharp enough to have the slings wrapped in a rope protector/cloth etc.

Hard to recall the exact height of the first bolt but something like 25 feet on CFY - up a slabby groove, easily round a block then up onto a ledge.

In reply to ericinbristol:

Thank you very much Eric, this is very informative indeed.

Might be helpful to add it to the crag's page.