UKC

After recent tip offs of some cleaning in Wilton 4 by Rick Ginns and Robin Müller, I was quite surprised by the standard and quality of the routes. The cleaning has greatly improved the left hand wall and with a little time the right hand routes will be more accessable too. So instead of doing the trade routes on the prow and chimney buttress, pay a visit to 4. You might be surprised at how good they are.

In reply to dave mann:

Couldn't agree more Dave
All routes on Sanction walls clean

In reply to dave mann:

Nice one. Good work.
Look forward to getting on it.

In reply to dave mann:

Agreed, and with how dry everything is at the moment. Funny, I was just having a look as I walked past this morning, thinking I'll have to go in there again.

On a broader note though, the whole of the North West seems to be under used to me. Cracking evening at Wilton 1 yesterday, and even though we were right down the far end, didn't see a sole all evening.

Thanks for the heads up.

In reply to dave mann:
Also worth mentioning 4 new BMC stakes put in by Rick. All on the left hand wall. Means it's easy to hang a rope to lower off if you want to avoid the heathery slope at the top. That said, Rick has been working on making tops better - you can see in this photo the tops on the right are now clean:

https://t.co/1rRApp6XKw

Several new boulder problems have also been done, so the Lancashire Bouldering guidebook is out of date even before it hits the shelves! I'll make a topo at some point - for now keep an eye on the New Problems page of the website (crags are in alphabetical order) http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/

In reply to Mark Collins:


Sounds a little fishy to me .... (sorry, couldn't resist, Mark)

In reply to Mark Collins:

The far end as in the allotment end? yeah the routes are great there. I cleaned and did a few last year its almost a different place to the rest of the Quarry.

In reply to robin mueller:

Cheers Robin. Some of these routes are barely repeated,therefore hard to find better quality routes . Its not dissimilar to the long back wall at Brownstones.

In reply to dave mann:

It's in Lancashire yes?

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Yes, lancashire.

Ascents of Sally and Johnny Walker today, both highballed above pads. Worth doing while clean! Haig is also good to go. The hardest E2 in lancashire? Fierce 6c finger jamming, a good test for anyone who likes this sort of punishment. doable with pads and spotters, but doesn't let up until the very end.

In reply to dave mann:

During the recent Wiltonfest we had a look at the Lottie end doing a couple of TR's and I really enjoyed 'Asleep for years' -VS4b. If this was one of your clean ups Dave, then thanks for the hard work.

In reply to Ann S:

It wasn't cleaned by me however I did clean some of the routes on than wall whilst Derek Kenyon cleaned Asleep for years. glad to see that Its still getting attention at that end.

In reply to Lankyman:


Ha, no worries. Always looking for a bit of help with my spelling.

In reply to dave mann:


Yes, that's the one. Did Rhonda, but topped out in the dark so went back for the gear on Friday morning before work. The free routes look really good and a little less intimidating than the overall feel of Wilton 1. I'm definitely going to go back soon and have a look at them properly, great effort on the cleaning front.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Cheers. I cleaned and led puma last year. Its as good as Max n Supercrack yet its rarely done which is ashame really. Ive looked at Rhonda it looks desparate yet doable as a free route.

In reply to dave mann:

Remember this place going out of favour yonks ago, shame, will be having a look in there tonight as I too am guilty of not going for the last ten years at least and even then I wrote it off as a filthy hole.
Il get one in at least for old times sake

In reply to andrew heginbotham:

You know it makes sense.

In reply to dave mann:

Great day in 4 today. Quality highballing.

In reply to dave mann:

A great crowd, great atmosphere and great climbing yesterday in 4. The 3 reasons why I love climbing.

In reply to dave mann:
Yeah great day on Saturday. About 5 ascents of Johnnie Walker, a lovely highball font 5, or short VS 5a solo if you prefer. Definitely worth doing whilst it's clean and dry.

Also two ground up ascents of Hells Bells E5 6b, or highball font 7A (we had lots of pads). Great climb, all holds now clean. The earthy topout needs care but we managed it after a bit of a flutter.

Fantastic to see so many people in Wilton 4!

In reply to robin mueller:

And here's a little vid of The E5 / font 7A highball Hell's Bells. vimeo.com/107658201