A few suggestions / corrections for routes in the current guidebook and on the UKC logbook database. Hope this is useful as it's a great area to explore:
Y Foel Penolau:
Generally magnificent in both situation and climbing - routes are underrated! A decent trail continues from the track end to the ridge.
Purrfection E0 5a * (protectable, could be HVS) - nice, but short.
On Secret Sand E3 6a *** (not *) - fantastic route, interesting all the way with cool rock features and a technical and powerful crux. Finishes obviously left (still good).
All This And Heaven Too E3 5c ** (not *) - great wall climbing with cool moves both to and from the angular slot.
Do The Monkey E2 5c ** (not *) - solid at the grade, wild and beefy pull around the roof. Spectacular enough for **.
Ffridd:
Generally smaller than suggested and both overrated and overgraded. Approach description quite confusing. Turning off the Llanfair - Cwm Bwchan road is actually the SECOND turn (fork) to Cwm Bwchan and currently the signpost is to Tansfarnau. The walk-in description is worse and should be: Park by the house then walk though the centre of a ruined house , over a stile on the right then a track downhill through a GATE in a wall. Follow the path down to a gap in the wall, turn left and follow the wall for 150m, then head down south between two knowls, the crag is then on the left (facing out).
We Knows This E2 5c * (not E3 6a **) - low in this grade (easier than Do The Monkey!), lovely quartz but a bit of a one move wonder so only *.
About Doubt E3 5b ** (not E4 5c **) - low in the E3 grade and just **. Steady moves on good holds but quite bold on the wall, RPs make it okay though. Open and elegant enough to be worth **.
Decisions And Revisions E3 5c * (not E4 6a *) - quite steady, good line but quite short.
May Contain Traces Of Stone E2 5c * (correct) - actually worth this grade as there's a pokey bold move to the good hold and a neat tricky crux above, hence also worth *.
Moelfre:
Currently quite dirty and needs a wire brush although the underlying lines and rock are very fine. Underpower E5 6b *** in particular looks excellent.
Right Of White E1 5b * (probably too safe for E2) - would be worth ** if perfectly clean, nice features, elegant climbing, good gear where it matters so probably hard E1.
Tyddyn Garreg:
Very minor indeed. On the plus side the farm had an adorable terrier that was determined to stowaway in the car.
Three Men In An Oat E2 6a ** (not E3) - easy 6a, maybe 5c. Start is thin but just a boulder problem, top groove has enough gear to make a steady E2. The route of the crag (not saying much!), just about worth ** for the height and rather funky finishing moves.
Oatsogood E2 5c (not *) - low in this grade, maybe E1 5b. Not really worth a star as a bit minor and eliminate.
Oat Race HVS 5b * (not E1 5c) - low in this grade. Easy and obvious. Just about worth a star for the line.
Barmouth Quarry:
How To Read The Air F6b+ ** (correct) - good route, disproportionately hard starting crux but steady F6a/+ after that and nice climbing so worth **.
The Thirty Year Storm F6b+ * (correct) - a bit easier than HTRTA, and not quite as substantial, fun though.
Sunbeach:
Delicatessen F6b+** (not F6b *) - solid at this grade with a lot of hard moves in it's short height. Very good value hence **.
Entropy F6b+/c * (maybe not F6c) - could just be hard F6b+? Short but quite fun climbing so worth *.
