UKC

NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: 8c+ on Trad Gear by Roland Hemetzberger

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 UKC News 19 Sep 2014
Roland Hemetzberger - 8c+ Trad, 4 kb"In 1996, Harald Bielmeier, bolted this 40m crack line, which ends in fifteen feet of blank wall. Since then, this final crux remained unsolved and unclimbable. For Black Diamond athlete Roland Hemetzberger, that was all the reason and motivation to have a closer look at it.

Two years of work revealed the solution, but more than that: the realization that the route could be climbed in a cleaner style. On the fixed rope, Hemetzberger removed the bolts and replaced them with birdpeaks, stoppers, camalots and pitons: trad gear used during his Alpine climbing."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69180

In reply to UKC News:

Some decent rock they have abroad, don't they?!

Strange to do it on trad gear to a lower-off! Still, good effort.

jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: It's not in the least bit strange to climb it on trad to a lower off. Thousands of routes are like that (e.g. in the US).

 Jonny2vests 20 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Where is this?
 Michael Gordon 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

What is strange is to remove the bolts then to climb on entirely pre-placed gear! Is this really a 'cleaner style'?
 jwi 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

yes
 cha1n 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> What is strange is to remove the bolts then to climb on entirely pre-placed gear! Is this really a 'cleaner style'?

This^
 Mr Fuller 20 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I wonder how much harder it would be to climb this placing the gear...? If it's majority cams then maybe not too bad, but I suppose if its loads of little crappy things like pegs and beaks then could be a nightmare.

Would be cool to see one of the 'project' Brits on the case like Dave Macleod, Steve Mac, or the Wideboyz looking into if it's doable without pre-placing the gear. These 'safe' hard trad routes have to be the future, don't they?
 islandlynx 20 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Cutting of insitu bolts and replacing with pitons. Waste of time and doing more damage to the rock. Pointless.
boulderbaz 20 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Do it solely on gear would have been impressive, removing bolts and putting in fixed pegs is strange, and pointless. You can still see staples in anyway. Really good looking route non the less and impressive effort.
Da3dalu 21 Sep 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:
Kufstein / Tirol / Austria

It's like half an hour east from Zillertal and one hour from Innsbruck. If you wanna go there you can either fly to Munich or Innsbruck. Driving time is the same. I am not sure but I think the route is somewhere next to 'Sparchen', which is one of the oldest sport climbing crags in Tirol. Sparchen also got two testpieces: 'Il Piccolo Orso', which was reapeated only once by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 8c+ and 'Qui', unreapteded and rumored to be 9a+. Both routes where put up by Stefan Fürst in 1996.

It's a quite impressive crag with great climbing and most of the time it remains dry, even after days of raining. Worth a visit once you're in Tirol.
Post edited at 10:48
 Tom Last 21 Sep 2014
In reply to islandlynx:

Have to agree.
 jimjimjim 21 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Pre placed gear.....don't count.
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing effort however have to agree that it seems a bit silly to chop the bolts only to preplace gear.
 jazzyjackson 19 Oct 2014
In reply to UKC News:

good tunes!
 Franco Cookson 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Mr Fuller:

>
>These 'safe' hard trad routes have to be the future, don't they?


This is the worst post I've ever seen on UKC. Makes me wanna chuck myself off of a death route. Why is safe and hard any better than bold and less hard? There are things that appear on bold routes that you'd never encounter on a route like this and vice versa.
1
 Mr Fuller 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Worst post ever on UKC is some serious accolade!

I meant 'one' future rather than 'the' future: I don't think safe and hard is any better than bold and less hard. Both are equally impressive, and I'm not going to climb either type of hard route any time soon. However, with most of the world's best technical climbers now coming from a sport/bouldering/comp background, they will likely go for safer trad routes over bold ones, and for that reason the top-end hard/safe routes are probably going to develop quicker than the bold routes.
 Franco Cookson 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Mr Fuller:

i.e. the bolder routes will be harder.
 Mr Fuller 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Ha! I hadn't realised I was saying that, but yes I suppose I am.

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