UKC

Sorry early by a few hours but only 10% iPhone battery and not home till tomorrow night to charge! Tintin

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=597752

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Since the theme for the last fortnight has been power endurance, here are some good articles:
· Introduction by Ben Moon: http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/school/the-3-training-phases-for-climbing/
· Achievable training sessions on Crux Crush: http://cruxcrush.com/2014/01/17/climbing-training-power-endurance/
· Pep talk from Steve McClure on 8a: http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FAr...

Psyche video for the week – Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay and Mark Synnott in Oman: http://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/magazine/ngm-oman-climbing

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Nick Russell – Serious extreme ticks on Lundy and a not worse finger. Ready for NH?
mattrm – Glad you’re enjoying the holiday. Goal for when you return is punching through the HVS barrier. Pick one that really inspires you and that should suit your style, warm up and then go for it. If you’d like some moral support I’m due for a Yat trip sometime soon and need to kick my own HVS avoidance.
IainRUK – How’s the hamstring? Another good result for the girls. Do you find coaching helps your own performance?
mrchewy – Feeling better? You’re braver than I am to face the midges at this time of year without a very good wind! Curbar is nails, so good result.
grubes – Seems like a week of forgetting shoes in Fit Club. Tired and recovering but three climbing sessions and all three tri disciplines ticked, and ready to up the training.
Joughton – Quietus in your dad’s boots and mum’s harness – next stop Masters Edge with the Wideboyz in a fat suit? Enjoy freshers’ week and we’ll see you when you emerge.
hms – Effort will be rewarded! Another solid week, and good sports mileage, recced some new venues and variety of experience.
Exile – Early opening of account on Spring goal of 7b, first DT session and lots of running. Sweet!
Just Tintin – Training not as good as last week but won a free pair of 5.10s and had a tweet favourited by Shauna Coxey, so something achieved...
Ally Smith – I’ve just shuddered at the term pinky mono. Ticking over and a decent amount of rehab. See the psyche video for Oman! Choss will be excellent training for the Wadi Rum LTG!
Dandan82 – Another good week. Lots of moves and a disciplined attitude to working weaknesses using technique and route reading.
Humperdink – When does XC season start? Have you got any target meets/races?
Alun – Rediscovering the muscle memory and having fun in the process. Did you make 69kg?
alexstudly – Lots of rookie errors last Sunday = poor performance! Lots of good core videos out there on the internet so just find a workout you like and keep doing it. The great thing is that no matter how strong your core gets, it still feels tough!

JimmyKay – Smashing it in. A PB year and still more to come. Counting down to the grit season…
Sankey – Measuring up well against yourself earlier this year. Are you planning to go for some onsights before the trip too?
Luke Owens- Smeary 7a+, font climbing every day and “epic camping set up” – sounds like a pretty successful week.
Tubb93 – Opened an account (by depositing some skin?) on some 7as and psyched to return stronger. Pack well!
Ali - good cardio week and a start on working on some points. For power endurance see above!
Biscuit - Mileage looking good - can't wait see the STGs

Busy:
Goonie
Kevster – just lurking…
Curious Yellow – on hols for a few weeks
Jamming Dodger

In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Tintin. Feeling better now but turns out I had genuine food poisoning before heading to Curbar. The allergic reaction to all the bites on top and the continuing dicky tummy stopped everything this week. No work, no training and a pile of antibiotics.

Nothing to report then except Tom Randall favorited one of my tweets, does that tie me at the top of the tweet leaderboard with Tintin?

Hope everyone's had a better week than me!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Cheers Tin Tin.

I should hit the 20 mile goal for this week with a long run today.The shoes i finally got round to ordering are these:

http://moremile.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/97704/s/more-mile-cheviot-men...

They get v good reviews on amazon and ultra forums. Not arrived yet. Should be good for the wet weather that will no doubt be on it's way soon.

Had a boulder at Widdop during the week. Not great conditions and i had no guide book so not totally sure what i did. First time on natural grit for many years. Took me a while to get into it but i flashed Pickpockets Wall ( V3 ), did a couple of highballs that were fun but i don't know what they were and various other stuff. A lot of it was a bit green and scrittly but the stones by the forest were obviously more frequented and generally better.

Just as i'm getting some psyche work throws a spanner in. We're short staffed so i'm now going full time. Working more weekends and Mon - Thurs. So Fridays are my day off for climbing outside now. Not great as most people take mid week days off.

So STG's:

Running: Increase mileage up to 30 miles a week and weekly long run to 13 miles. 25 in Oct, 30 in Nov. Hold that through Dec too just to get used to it before pushing on with proper training plan starting in Feb, when mileage will inc up to 50 a week over time.

Climbing:
I can get an hrs boulder in after work on Tues and a decent session before work on Thurs. That then leaves Friday for an outdoor boulder/routes or indoor weather depending and a fingerboard over the weekend.

Goals are to get V6 outdoor by end of year. I'll pick progressively harder problems to go at indoors each time they're reset. One on the steep side and one on the opposite wall. Hope to get indoor V8 by Xmas but this is flexible as different setters have very different ideas about grades.

In reply to biscuit:

Ditto that.
Can you juice Big Macs?

In reply to Just Tintin:

Well that was annoying - got my whole entry written, then my PC decided to install some updates & it was all lost....

M - cycle commute. TRX 2xupper 2xcoree
T - cycle commute. UCR with psycho-coach. 18 routes. V hot & sticky - fell off lots of stuff, which is probably good for my head.
W - cycle commute. Evening attack on Bourton Combe - targetted working of the remaining 7a+ mini-route with D1. We both got it after working - not reachy as long as one uses ones feet.
T - cycle commute
F - TCA trying hard problems & another go at any accumulator probs I thought might go. Best accumulator round - 12 flash, 2 worked.
S - Bloc trying comp problems with mixed success.
S - Wyndcliff Quarry. Had hoped to work a new 7b, but it appears to be in the realms of the impossible. We could get to the initial flowstone sloper, couldn't really hold it, couldn't find anything resembling any form of hold anywhere above it. Decided to try a 6c which had defeated me before instead. Needed to work it as the seq is devious, then lead clean. Crux move is significantly above the first bolt so quite a necky lead.

This coming week I'll be taking it v easy as the following week is Kaly. Don't know when I'll be able to post, but probably not next weekend as I'm not taking a laptop or anything with me. Fingers crossed that I've done enough of the right sort of preparation - slightly regretting saying that my goal was 7b+ or above!!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Thanks for summary!!

STG:
Lose 1 kg per week for next 2 weeks
Keep recuperating climbing fitness
Keep recuperating cycling fitness

MTG:
Tick Font 7C
Get sub 13 minutes on my favourite test climb http://www.strava.com/segments/1393830
Try to keep surfing as often as the waves hit the med over the winter.

M - Nada
T - Commute to work 35km
W - Lunchtime bouldering at wall. Definitely feeling stronger, and ticking some problems at my previous limit.
T - Wifey's 40th.
F - Babysitting duty
S - S - Spent with family

A bit of a slow week, exercise wise, but I'm feeling stronger which is a good thing. Weight is just under 70kg but I only really lost half a kilo this week. I'm down to pretty much 10% body fat though which means that the loss has been more fat that muscle. Which is good.

The weather is really hot and humid here atm, which makes it difficult to be motivated to do any hard exercise. This week I'll try and get one bike ride and two sessions at the wall. Then next saturday I think I'll be going sport climbing at a nearby crag, so we'll get to see how crap my endurance is!!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Thanks Justin

Training going into next gear now work has calmed down

Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight
get core strength and body tension back - much better post physio
Complete my triathlon
Not finish last at battle of britain

M: Rest
T: physio exercises.
W: Bouldering at Harmers and helsby
T: Physio Exercises
F: Physio. Signed off
S: Swimming lesson.
The depot 2 hours trying hard while tired.
S: Ran 5.1k. New 5k PB 29.11. beat last time by 59s. More importantly sub 30min

Okay week. Test run for tri next saturday

In reply to grubes:

Nice work getting under 30 minutes - it seems to be quite a psychological barrier for many and once through it times start to drop rapidly down to the 26 min mark. Well done.

In reply to mrchewy:

The race from hell for me this week…

m: 4 miles slow am. pm: 10 miles slow with XC team
t: pm: 3.2 miles with XC womens team on their course. pm: track 8.85 miles track session, 5 x 1 mile 5:36 pace on average, 1 min rest, lactate threshold session..
w: am: pm: 5 miles around ridley creek state park. pm: 6 miles around ridley creek state park.
t: am: 18 miles 6:50 pace road and undulating trail, last 3 6:30's so felt good. pm: 5 miles with XC team around blokes course
f; am: slow 3 miles. pm: 5k checking out the route of the womens XC course one last time..
s: Co-organised a XC meet, coached our teams, they did well. Slow 4 miles in the evening shattered.
s: Jersey City half.. felt OK early on, first 4 miles 5:40 pace and just fell apart and finished in 1:21.. running 6:50's by the end..

worst race in years, just gave up, couldn't even hold marathon pace.. not good at all.

No idea if coaching is good or bad for my own running, but really enjoy it, just great fun being out with them.

In reply to Just Tintin:

Thanks for doing fit club


Aims:

Autumn: (Soft) 7b RP(?) and be fighting fit for the winter season as soon as it kicks off.

Winter start with VI 7

Spring second 7b RP

Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 45min fell run
T: 1hr dry tooling
W: 1hr fell run
T: 1hr climbing - one play on Countach before it got dark. Got it in two sections with the crux move, (which I didn't do,) between the two halves
F: 40min road cycle for recovery
S: Nothing
S: 1hr 30min climbing. Two more goes on Countach. Wasted the first go trying to do the crux in the same way as my, (slightly shorter,) mate then found a sequence that worked better for me. Couldn't get it all in one second go as a bit powered out.

Weight: 11st 12lb - need to get this down again quick!

A good week. Winter prep' going well. Pleased to get all the moves done on Countash sorted. Having gone from sport at the beginning of the year to trad for the Summer I am probably the weakest I've been in terms of 'butch' (for me) power endurance so I think I need a concerted effort over the next month to get enough back to do the route. Confident enough / want to put myself under pressure enough to put ticking 7b back to an Autumn goal though! (We'll see!) Think we're going to finally have to admit defeat and knock outside climbing after work on the head though, but a bit more time at the wall will actually do me some goo.

In reply to biscuit:

Hi fella, did you say you're doing the Lakeland 50? If so, great race. If you want a few handy hints get the socks with individual toes in them and have a couple of sock changes, (pre talcum powdered,) in your bag to change into as the race goes on. (I had no blisters in Ambleside but about seven by the time I got to Coniston.)

Also, don't need to carry lots of food as the food stops, (it's all in the name!) had loads. We finished with half our food left.

And don't skimp on your torch - we took Tikka XPs but ended up running from Langdale with a fella who had a Mio and I was glad we teamed up with him.

In reply to Just Tintin:

Ok busy focused week on the volume side and planning.

MON:AM 20 min run, 30min core work out off you tube, wow pain core is weak! PM: First session on a finger board, did this beginers session ( http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Fingerboard_Training__Beginner_1100.html )

TUE:AM 30min run,15min core work out as was a bit sore from 30min day before PM: Went on a 6c+ called the hunt, for me a power endurance route pumpy, got it second go, then lapped for some Aero Pow, pump!

WED:AM 30 min run, 30min core, PM: Bouldering, V3 V4 V5 V6 all first or second go,

THUR:AM: 30 min run 15min core, PM: First visit to dinbren with luke owens, brill place, got a climbing style of its own, did more side pulls and under cuts in one session there than in the last 3 years! 6b 6c close on sight, 7a+ technocoulor yawn, dogged just to look didnt red point, then lapped 6c for some pump in the dark!

FRI: Rest

SAT: Rest

SUN: Revisit to the diamond, did 7a rub a dub dub, brill route, just a real fitness battle and arm pump for me.

Just Tintin: tell me about it, wont be doing that again in a hurry!! Core is going to a long battle to ever get stong but im keen and hoping to see a little improvement.


Weight 12.4, been good on the food intake this week seems to of helped

Mental: Good new focus and understanding of training and whats needed for a complete packed is getting better.

Injurys: None.

STG next month/week: Climb/train x4 a week, structure training more, more core, lose 5 lbs

MTG before christmas: Finish off projects and "ones that got awaay/"next session when i'm fresh, no problem!" routes

LTG Next year: Get to 12st, do a 7a+ in a session again,7b in two sessions, have a go on a 7b+

Allways keen

Alex

In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks JT, I had a hint of an ache in one finger at the start of the week so I decided to take it steady so as not to jeapordise my fitness for Font in around 5 weeks time. My way of taking it easy was to skip all the gym sessions that don't really affect my finger and to just boulder, the one thing that could damage it more...

M:
T;
W:
T: Boulder indoor V0-V8 AnCap V4x4 V4x4 V4x4
F:
S:
S: fence erecting

Yeah so not much to report, to be fair it was quite a busy week for one reason or another but I didn't manage any gym sessions.
My partner is STILL too poor to climb, (although I suspect it may be more that his new girlfriend has informed him he is too poor to climb) so i'm going to stick a 'partner wanted' note up at the local wall, I really need to get on some routes!
That said, the bouldering was good, new routes including some real tough cookies at all grades. I spent 20 minutes trying to solve a flat wall V3 with some really bizarre moves in it, the kind of thing I would usually have one go on, fail and then go find something steep and juggy, so it felt good to stick with it and actually use my brain to solve it.

There is a heinous sloper problem which would be good training for Font, it's V8+ and it can't get off the floor yet so some work to do there.
I did however flash a V7 on the roof, it was exactly my style, crimpy and not overly complicated, it had some awesome drop-knees in it. My grip stamina is definitely starting to return, I thought I was done 3 moves from the top but I managed to keep pulling through the last holds surprisingly successfully. Progress being made.

I finished off with some AnCap sets on varying angles of wall, it was hard to tune the difficulty of the routes just right to cause maximum agony and distress, so I came away feeling a little less destroyed than I could have.

One finger was a little achey the next day (although it's fine now) so I am going to do this week what I should have done last week, gym sessons but no climbing.

STG: clean a long 7a+ indoor. (not had chance to yet)
sign of the Vulcan (7b+) outdoor
Build stamina (going well)
maintain injury free state! (tick)
(Next week) do core, back, chest and shoulder session.

MTG: Enjoy Font in October, no grade chasing!
Redpoint 8a this year

LTG: redpoint 8b

In reply to Just Tintin: Cheers JT!

Trying to do plenty of stretching and massaging of my mega tight forearms, seems to be working a bit but still getting "pins an needles".

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Work gym session:

15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
10 Dips
10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Side Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Hanging Leg Raises
10 Upright Shoulder Rotation (5kg)
Side Star Plank both sides (1min each)

Repeat the above then:

1 Min Dish
1 Min Alternating Supermans

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Gave Alex a tour of the Bren. Very humid greasy conditions. Got reaquiented with Flowers are for the Dead (7c). Actually made progress despite not being on it for a couple of months, better beta for the start and lead through the middle section. Need to finish this off ASAP, feels very close now. Massively powered out after a few goes then had to work hard on ~5 laps of a 6c.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Back at The Diamond, so psyched for this place, it's like a dream climbing there!

Warmed up trying to "go for it" on Rub a Dub-Dub (7a) fell on the crux, did it next go but it felt like a fight, happy with my recovery on the top section post crux despite near terminal pump.

Went for a no expectation onsight attempt on Calimero (7a+), did it and it felt pretty easy. Completely unexpected, hardest onsight to date and on my favorite crag too. Really psyched!

Seem to be getting plenty of good progress in the endurance game. Time to step it up a bit?

In reply to Luke Owens:
Nice one Luke - Didn't know Calimero was on-sight!

Emma said it felt much harder yesterday than when she did it last week

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks matey, glad I didn't watch you on it in the end. Well, only the shameless self promotion flex clipping the first draw! Haha.

If you and Emma thought it to be tricky then that makes me feel even better about onsighting it!

Strong effort on Evening Light, mega inspired to do that one day!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Another week of physio/recovery. Good to visit bits of Frodsham I’d not been to before, but a bit shocked by how quickly my fitness has gone awry – getting pumped stupid on 7b+. Looking to up it a bit; maybe get back to 7c this week and 8a again next?

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss.
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)

MTG (Autumn 2014):
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca & Waddage, Tor
- K5, Cheedale Cornice
- Re-visit trad & try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – 74.7kg & 6.6%

STG (Next week)
- Shoulder physio everyday – fail
- Ice finger & wrist everyday – fail – most days
- 2x core sessions/week - fail
- Stretch everyday - fail
- Consider some pull-ups if 1st aim is successful - tick

Repeat of same aims this week – finger and wrist are a little sore from the Diamond. Shoulder getting there, but noticeable chicken winging when fatigued

Last week:
M - 50 pull-ups, 300 core movements and some half-hearted fingerboarding
T - Rest/stretch/ice
W - Nothing; London commuting stress & post work beer glutony
T - 25 problems at Frodsham. V0-V3 painfree
F - Nothing – lazy. Stretch/ice.
S - Shoulder stability, Ikea and soggy lap of ‘degla red. Struggling for motivation, but glad I ignored the weather and went out (well, apart from the high-speed-over-the-handlebars incident by the reservoir).
S - Battered and bruised from crash, but kayaking cancelled and hence went to Diamond with Luke. 7a+ x2 OS warm-up, then fell off WOTEL (7b+) in greasy connies. RP’d WOTEL. Got very pumped over-gripping due to grease; excellent route. A must do “adventure sport climb” – for those of you that think that’s an oxymoron, I suggest you try this, or something on red wall at Craig pen y Gogarth.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Any further thoughts about Fisheye & Chulilla? Sent an email with flights - London to Valencia looks good times.

In reply to hms:

Good prompt - just emailed you

In reply to Just Tintin:

Thanks for doing the stats Tintin. HVS at the Yat sounds good. I'll drop you an email.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (2/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 5lbs (+4lbs) - ok for a holiday...

391

M - Rest
T - Sport @ Gelli
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 0300 start for a 0700 flight
S - Crete - Knossos!

392

M - S - Holiday in Crete. Too hot to do anything and the pool was a bit small. Lots of walking and the like. But also lots of wine, beer and food. Lovely holiday tho. Did all the major archaeological sites and museums.

Could have been worse weight wise. The sport climbing the other week wasn't great, but I've not been bouldering or sport climbing recently, so no surprises there. The rest has done my shoulder lots of good. All you people with niggly injuries, you could all do with a couple of weeks off in a nice warm place and do lots of yoga. Bet it'd sort you all right out. Just don't eat badly while you're there.

In reply to Just Tintin:


Thanks for doing fit club and the links to the articles - got a routes session planned Wednesday so can put some of into practice hopefully (if my partner is willing!).

As I mentioned in last update a pretty poor week for me as was in a car in Scotland for most of the week. Though the east coast up to and north of Wick is pretty - and looks to be some decent sea cliff climbing?! Could also see across to Hoy - oh my are those cliffs impressive!

Mon - Wed - 5 min core daily, a couple of 45min walks
Thurs - nothing (stuck at work)
Fri - 30 min swim - hard work as forgot to have pre-swim banana!
Sat - pathetic bouldering session at BF - failed on everything I tried above v2. Felt glum
Sun - Bike ride to City and back (helping at big orienteering race) - about 15 miles return. Very frustrated not to be able to run!

Unfortunately got back from Scotland to find work has gone completely mental - effectively taken on an extra half time role and have a lot of deadlines to meet before I go away end of next week. So much for a training plan....going to be just whatever I can manage to squeeze in!

In reply to Just Tintin:


Thanks for the stats JT. Some of those Lundy leads felt pretty serious at the time!

I'm in New Hampshire now, patchy signal and on my phone. I'll do another double update next week. For now I'll leave it at getting spanked around a bit by Rumney.

In reply to mrchewy:

Pretty sure it does. Not sure how to up the game this week though...

In reply to Just Tintin: aerobic stuff last week.

M:
T: run 4.6 miles 8.45 pace
W:
T: quick ascent of win hill then run back down
F:
S: 4 mile stroll round burbage
S: 7 miles walk along edges

STG: Sticky Wicket + Mountain Marathon fitness before OMM
MTG: Chullia - raise onsight grade
LTG: Space Race or similar

In reply to Exile:

Yes it's the UTLD 50. I did the first one a while ago and really chuffed to be getting back into long running with that as the target. It was a great run then and seems to have only improved over the years.

I ate everything i had last time - but i am greedy. The food stops were really well organised. Sweet stuff like muffins and coke, if you wanted that, or buckets of pasta, pies etc. if you wanted savoury.

I've got some of the individual toe socks on order through JD. It'll be interesting to see how they work.

I had a Myo last time. Great torch. My dog ate the cables though so i'll be getting another, or maybe a Nao.

In reply to biscuit:



Dispatched! I never thought I'd be spending 18 pounds on a pair of socks. :/

In reply to Just Tintin:

Maybe winning a car? Or a re-tweet by a royal?

In reply to Dandan:



You know that it is ok to climb with other people right? I climb with the same person 70% of the time but with other people the rest of the time. It's good to climb with others makes you climb differently.

In reply to mattrm:
I'm pretty much a whore when it comes to climbing, I don't climb on a rope at the wall much anyway and I've certainly not a got a partner I climb with indoors. I often just wander up and climb with who's ever about for a bit and then get bored and head into the boulder room.

All change from next week and I've promised Blanka I'd do one session with her a week... time to test out her new lead belaying skills.

In reply to Dandan:

I don't know whether you mean indoor or outdoor routes but either way it looks like we should be moving our stuff down to your neck of the woods (well, Poole), this coming weekend. Happy to team up!

Indoors I'll probably become an insitu feature at the Project (first session and bought my annual pass last night so have to get value out of it!), but I'm also keen to get on th ropes at Calshot every now and again, partly for variety and stamina training and partly because my other half needs regular lead mileage otherwise her roped climbing head just evaporates.

Outdoors we seem to have booked up a hell of a lot of weekends already but those that aren't already booked we are likely to be trying to spend close to home exploring the local crags. I wouldn't mind finding some winter projects at some point, a mix of things I'm good at and steep roof stuff to work my weaknesses in that area. Specifically be interested in some of the obvious Swanage quarry roofy 7s and maybe try something high 7s or 8a (fighting torque perhaps?) at somewhere like the cuttings too.

In reply to mattrm:

I know, that's why i'm sticking up a 'wanted' note to find some more partners!
The guy used to be a really reliable partner but the new girlfriend seems to have put a stop to that in pretty short order, she seems nice but she's mighty bossy.
I've been chatting with a guy in the boulder room who is crazy strong and really enthusiastic, I might see if he wants to partner up for some routes..

In reply to AJM:
It's just a partner for weeknights that I need, I work in the Midlands Mon-Fri so I need someone who is near to Coventry, i'm guessing that doesn't encompass any fit-clubbers...

We should definitely get together for some outdoor stuff though, we are managing maybe 1 weekend in 3 on rock at the moment but i'd happily show you around if we can arrange it.

I love The Project but it's a fair trek from my house for an indoor session, especially when Mrs Dandan isn't overly keen on bouldering (ankle turning flashbacks from Font a couple of years ago).
The Bournemouth/Poole locals are super friendly, you'll have an endless supply of climbing partners in no time.

Micro swanage guide: For roofs in the 7's, try Winspit, notably Avenging the Halswells (7b(+?) and lots of stuff on the seaward face although some of it can be a bit dodgy.
My favourite roof is the mexican wave area at Dancing Ledge, 7a to 7c+ and super powerful, i'm working my way through them...
EDIT: Or of course get yourself down to Promenade, it's a bit of an adventure but has all the steep you will ever need.

I'm not a huge fan of Fighting Torque, but I still want the tick, if the golden 8 grade isn't a necessity then there are loads of other good routes at the cuttings, the style is quite unique though, it takes a while to get used to it.

In reply to Just Tintin:

Thanks Tin Tin

Not alot to report this week as have spent the vast majority of it either travelling back from font, or packign and travelling back to Bangor. However on Saturday I Managed to flash bog traverse V4 at cromlech so that's a bonus for the week! Will post properly next week with new short term goals.

In reply to Dandan:
I had a friend who lived in Corfe for a year so I got on avenging the halsewell briefly - like to get back on it. Mexican wave definitely piques my interest too!

I've never been on fighting torque but I figured it's maybe the most amenable of the winter-project fr8s in the area so worth a look. Although in reality I should probably just boulder to address the lack of strength and hit roofs and steep things to get into the style. The big goals really I suppose are the summer ones, so I mustn't get sidetracked!

Oh, and any idea on what the promenade is like in winter? I imagine it must have to be quite calm as I recall it being fairly exposed to any swell which must make good conditions tough?

In reply to AJM:

Maybe i'm being mean to Torque, you might love it, it's not really my style, pretty thin and technical with small feet, I prefer something with a bit more meat on it really, but 8a's are pretty thin on the ground around here so you have to go with what you've got.

Promenade will suffer with seepage as much as anywehre else in dorset over the winter, plus you are right in that it needs calm conditions to be climbable so finding it in form over the winter will entirely depend on what the weather does. If we have a cold dry one you will probably be in luck, but that goes for everywhere else in the area too.

In reply to AJM:

Welcome home Andy/Ali

Think i'm going to be keen for a Dorset visit or two over the winter; Cuttings 8a would be good as this winter needs me to up my finger strength to deal with an obvious weakness in that dept.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Just let us know when.....

In reply to biscuit:

Hadn't realised you'd done it before - don't need me rabbiting on then! Hope it goes well.

In reply to Exile:

All advice is welcome. It would appear I will shortly be the proud owner of the most expensive socks I've ever had inspired by your advice, so thanks.

In reply to biscuit:

Great socks though!!!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Short notice, but are any of the Bristol FCers out climbing tomorrow? I'm at a loose end.

In reply to mattrm:

Moving house, sorry...