UKC

The Chasm, A Picture Book. Direct Finish Question?

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 jonnie3430 21 Sep 2014
Hello,

There is a "picture book," of Saturdays adventure up The Chasm on the GUMC facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2232511881/permalink/10152747423456882/ (I think the link should work?)

Does anyone know much about the direct finish? I arrived at the cave to find the walls to wide to bridge further out, a jug on the far side and no foothold, and it didn't seem that there was much to use above the jug to get through the overhang! Does the direct route use the chimney about 5m left at this point? Or are people braver and holds invisible?
 john irving 22 Sep 2014
In reply to jonnie3430:

Did the direct finish in 1996. Bottom of the pitch was dry and it got wetter higher up. Belayed in the cave. Rope got into an amazing fankle. Sorting that out was the crux. Don't remember the moves, but went straight up the chimney.
Always a little further by Alastair Borthwick has an account of a tremendous epic in that very spot.
OP jonnie3430 22 Sep 2014
In reply to john irving:

Cheers, will check the book. Straight up would be a narrow wet fight, belay in the cave would mean combined tactics possible too.... Good effort!

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