UKC

Climbing in Greenland

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harry_j 09 Oct 2003
Has anyone climbed or know where to information about climbing in Greenland
In reply to harry_j:
Look at the expedition reports on here:
http://www.wayupnorth.clara.co.uk/
I went on the 1999 trip to the Lemon Mountains. Richard Pash wrote the report, which is full of info on the area. Otherwise, Paul Walker is the guru (he has a company under his name which runs expeditions to climb unclimbed peaks etc.).
Tom
 paul 09 Oct 2003
In reply to harry_j: I went to the cape farwell region in 94-96. It is very easy to acess and gives you a great adventure with minimal preparation -a plane a boat or two choppers (regular scheduled filghts) do your shopping at a supermarket and then privately hire a boat to take you where you want and leave you in complete peace for a few weeks to make as many first ascents as takes your fancy. Fairly costly though.

I can tell you more if you have specific questions.
 Damo 09 Oct 2003
In reply to harry_j:

Lots of info at www.tangent-expeditions.co.uk
Stephen Reid 09 Oct 2003
In reply to harry_j:

I had my third expedition to Greenland this summer. We have been to the Staunings Alps on each occasion. 6000km2 of superb granite apline peaks with loads of potential for new routes and even some unclimbed summits left. There is a guidebook by Donald Bennet (West Col, 1972). Not cheap though. You are looking at round about £2000 - £2500/head though you could stay for 2 months and it would be no dearer. You also have extra hassles in that you need a permit from the Danish Polar Centre (must apply the year before you intend to go), a radio licence for your emergency beacon (you need to hire one of those) and a gun licence for your rifle and ammo (which you have to borrow/hire from somewhere and get through Heathrow). But on the plus side they weren't falling down this summer and we had all 6000km2 to ourselves. There are stacks of other different areas to go to. Virtually the entire length of the east coast has mountain ranges on it and there are loads on the west coast too. Some are technical with great rock, others are more suited to ski -touring with poor rock. Costs will be dearer within the National Park (NE section) which includes the Staunings. Helicopter hire (payload around 500kg to 2000m ie 2 plus kit for 4 weeks) is probably around £800/hour out of Constable Point but may be cheaper further south. You can also use a Twin Otter based in Iceland (takes 8 plus kit) which is slightly cheaper but you are more limited as to where you can land.

Major sources of info are back issues of High (Lindsay Griffin's column) and two articles in the American Alpine Journal detailing Greenland Exploration. A bit of research should give you a few ideas. If you need any more assistance feel free to email.
 Tom Briggs 10 Oct 2003
In reply to harry_j:

Where in Greenland and to do what?

I've been to Southern Greenland twice rock climbing. There are detailed BMC reports of these trips.

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