UKC

.....if the bolts on the route you want to do have those worrying rotating hangers?

I realise of course that with the correct-sized spanner this situation can presumably be remedied, but still.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

If the nut is on properly not too worried I don't think. They can be bloody annoying to clip though!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I have carried a small adjustable spanner around in my ropebag for a year for this reason, and have used it precisely once.

I was worried about over-torqueing bolts and breaking/weakening them, until people who know what they are talking about (e.g. Jim Titt, Ian Lloyd-Jones) said with a small spanner and a bit of common sense that's really a negligible risk.

I suspect if the rock is more or less vertical and the bolt is more or less horizontal then the direction of load on the bolt is still going to be pretty much ok even in the hanger is loose. I've seen one case where the bolt was drilled at a right angle to very overhanging rock, and a loose hanger had pulled it out an inch and bent it thirty degrees. Decided that was not a good place to be projecting at my limit.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

If the nut is done up tight, then it's probably OK.

If the nut is loose then tighten it with your fingers and proceed with circumspection.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Still struggling slightly with the first half of your question. Who are you really?!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

It´s o.k depending on the type of bolt and why the hanger is loose!
See, I removed your worries in 14 words and introduced you to a whole new world of angst at the same time, free of charge to boot. Maybe I´ll become a psychotherapist next and earn loads of money.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Maybe he needs to climb part of it to remove the bollts

In reply to jimtitt:

So you could have said: "It won't be ok depending on the type of bolt and why the hanger is loose!"

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Present a positive picture first and then add doubt, it gives longer term paranoia

In reply to jimtitt:

On reflection yours was the best.