UKC

I've made a couple of recent visits to the recently bolted Mermaid Wall at Rhosilli beach, between the 3 bolted coves (Mermaid, Castaway and Shipwreck) there is now a wide array of quality outings from F3+ right through to F8c.
The thing that puzzles me (perhaps someone can cast some light) is how come these areas remained undeveloped for so long. Gower is relatively climbed out so it seems odd that such obvious lines were left untouched, especially when adjacent areas like Sheepbone wall were climbed on.
Yes the tidal window is short (but that is true of plenty of Gower crags) and some of the top outs might be esoteric experiences as Trad, but many of the lines seem protectable and not all the top outs are terrible.
Anyone know any other reasons why these crags evaded the radar for so long?
P.S. Massive thanks to those who co-ordinated fundraising and then bolted the lines. It is a great climbing resource - and must have taken a major investment of time and energy.

In reply to The Ivanator:
I think it's a combination of poor top-outs and the local new routers switching their focus to mid-grade sport routes. Leaving no one locally who bothered to do new routing in the VS-E3/4 range. I think that many climbers these days are not into new routing, which is why most of the new routing gets done by old climbers who have only ever new routed. Certainly I think that's the case on the Gower. It doesn't cover everyone I'm sure, but I think that's part of it.

Roy or Goi might come along and offer an insight however.

In reply to The Ivanator:


Back when I lived nearby (over 10 years ago) I used to gaze longingly at these walls, wondering the same as you. I'm not sure they were ever "under the radar" as opposed to being "a pain the arse to develop". The topouts are much worse than you allude to, and the compact nature of the rock, as well as the difficulty around Shipwreck (the best new section), means that any new trad routes there would be in the mid-high E-grades. And most people operating at these grades drive straight on through to Pembroke. Finally, they are very tidal and the bottom 2-3m is basically like climbing on barnacles!

Nevertheless, I seriously entertained hammering in a few stakes around the top of what is now Shipwreck Cove, but never got round to it, partially cos I couldn't be bothered, but also because the obvious sensible option was to place a series of bolt belays along the top, to avoid the horrendous top-out. However the bolting policy on Gower was (and maybe still is?) a delicate affair.

Although I'm very happy that there has been development there, I confess I am a weeny bit disappointed that so many sport lines went up. I wonder how many of the routes between 6c and 7b could have been climbed at E4/5/6 - grades which are rather lacking on Gower - just with a nice bolt belay at the top to save the dangerous top out. But having not had the opportunity to climb there yet, and not living there any more, my opinion is not worth very much! Overall, I am delighted that the area is being used at all, and I'm looking forward to going there one day.

In reply to Alun:

Shipwreck cove is an awesome piece of rock - looks on a par with some top European Limestone to me, but well beyond my punterish standards
I agree the topouts there look dodgy and much of the rock is pretty compact.
Mermaid Wall though seems more mysterious - good trad gear opportunities on many of the routes and plenty of the top outs look feasible were there a few stakes in place.
Due to the short tidal window you would certainly not get too many trad routes done there in a session, so I think better suited to Sport. As you say the barnacles are a bit of an initial disincentive, but they don't detract too much from some excellent lines.

In reply to The Ivanator:


Having seen it, I agree it is good for the UK, but I definitely wouldn't go as far as saying it's on a par with top Euro sport crags. I'm sure there are equally good spots elsewhere on Gower...Fox hole? Not been there but some locals we met at shipwreck rated that even higher...

In reply to 1234None:

If I was good enough to get on the routes I'd be able to give a more educated opinion on this I guess! But when the sun is shining on the golden Rhosilli sands and you look up at that impressive curve of overhanging Limestone it is easy to imagine you are somewhere altogether more exotic than South Wales.

In reply to The Ivanator:


Pretty much all of Gower is like that. Many beautiful locations make up for the relatively poor climbing.

In reply to Skyhook:

Unless you choose to climb at Barland quarry!