UKC

The guys at Plas Y Brenin seem to be able to find some decent climbing in most weather - how do they do that? As I'm heading to North Wales this weekend, what resources would you use to pick a crag which might offer reasonable climbing.

Or, how climbable are some of the VDiff classics in the rain?

In reply to BarrySW19:

I think I'm going to be in the place that you are going to be in. And I was wondering the same thing - with a definite eye on VDiff classics!

In reply to BarrySW19:

We started in the rain on Flying Buttress on Saturday, things had cleared by the time we got to the top though. It seemed reasonable enough to me, but I guess it also depends on the individuals concerned.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Fronwydr? I was actually thinking of Holyhead Mountain on Saturday as it might be dry and then perhaps get wet on a classic Sunday as it looks like it will rain everywhere.

Simple formula for finding VDiffs in Snowdonia/North Wales factoring the weather while based at PYB:

Is it raining in Capel Curig- No
Go to Idwal Slabs or Milestone Buttress.

Is it raining in Capel Curig- Yes
Drive to the Moelwyns.

You are now in the Moelwyns- its still raining.
Do you like climbing in the rain?
Yes- Go climbing in the Moelwyns.

No- Go to Tremadog- its always sunny there.

In reply to BarrySW19:

It depends if it's showery rain or heavy continual rain.
In showers the slate quarries are a good bet, friends of mine have done snakes and ladders in utterly diabolical weather. Climbing wise it doesn't really get going until HVS/ E1 although there are some easy sport routes too.
If it's light continual rain Idwal slabs may be a good bet, the top pitch of flying buttress would be pretty grim in the rain.
If it's raining heavily there will most likely be a pocket of good weather somewhere, www.yr.no is good for providing very localised weather forecasts. Places to look are Tremadog, The Ormes, Holyhead Mountain/ Gogarth (if you're feeling up to it) or possibly some of the limestone you'd pass near Wrexham on the way home to London.

In reply to BarrySW19:

The coast is usually drier, Tremadog, Gogarth and the Orme.

If it's raining there then you can have a grand day out on some of the mountain classics on Tryfan, which are perfectly climbable in the rain if you well equipped and have the experience. Stay away from Lliwedd though!

In reply to BarrySW19:

That's right. I'm leaving my plans fairly open and just going to see what happens... some forecasts (from different sources) are suggesting a nice afternoon on Saturday after a rainy morning.

In reply to BarrySW19:

Almost certainly Holyhead Mountain is your best bet if the weather is poor, with Tremadoc a close second though it doesn't have many v diffs. The Moelwyns often has the best weather in the mountains and the rock is probably some of the best in Wales for climbing in the wet. Clogwyn yr Oen is the best of the bunch for rough rock and minimally polished v diffs or easy severes.

In reply to BarrySW19:

Barry I find if its raining inland, go to hollyhead and vice versa

In reply to mh554:

Lots of good tips on the thread already, something not mentioned so far that I have enjoyed in the rain on a couple of occasions is Cneifion Arete.

In reply to The Ivanator:

yes, nice blocky route. A similar route would be Dolman Ridge

In reply to BarrySW19:

I think I'm going to print out this thread

In reply to BarrySW19:

Think you've got most of the suggestions on this thread already!

We're super lucky to have quite varied climbing just far enough apart to have slightly different weather conditions (not all the time!) but close enough to be very accessible.

Mountains
Quick drying Slate
Tremadog
Holyhead / Gogarth
Moelwyns
A55 sport / Orme

And slightly further away Llangollen

If it's raining just get on some of our awesome, long easy routes, loads of choice!

And worse case the excellent Beacon!

In reply to climbwhenready:

Yep, lots of good ideas here - thanks all.