UKC

Training advice - unable to climb for a few weeks.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Mark Kemball 05 Oct 2014
So, last week I took a fall, got a fine ride in an RAF helicopter and a badly sprained ankle which is now in a load-bearing "aircast". I think it will be 6 weeks or so before I can climb, and even then I'll have to be careful (no risking falling on to it bouldering). Meanwhile, what can I do so that I don't loose too much fitness? (Note, I'm 58 so I'll also have to be fairly careful not to overdo things and injure myself.) I've been climbing fairly regularly over the last few years, indoors and out, but have not really done a lot of other training.

I'm thinking core exercises, but am not sure what, press ups, pull ups, and I also have the use of my son's weights if anyone can recommend suitable exercises.

So, which exercises, how many in a set (or how does one decide this?) how many sets, and how often can I safely train?

Thanks for any advice.
 marzi 05 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

beastmakers or similar?

other than that pull ups, push ups, core, for cardio, can you swim?

steve
 Ciro 05 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

If you go down the climbing wall and top-rope easier routes one-footed, you'll keep your finger strength and as a bonus get really good at flagging in the next six weeks
 HB1 05 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

As someone who took a 12ft groundfall onto my back 3 months ago I can sympathise with your predicament. You do at least know the extent of your damage, and can begin to act accordingly. I ignored (once I'd managed to breathe again) the obvious (being in a severe state of shock) drove 100 miles home and pretended everything was normal. My body, however, told a different story, and I began to ache a lot and felt very tired (all quite normal). I couldn't run, but I could (can) walk. I've done some easy climbing (like you, I don't want to fall even a little way) and some gym work - plenty there for you to do on the machines - I don't think it matters quite what, how often (it won't be too often because it's pretty boring)or how many reps etc, because you're starting from a position of fitness (all those climbs you've logged!) and you're still young.

I didn't see the GP for a month, was X-rayed and later MRI scanned (to confirm fractured vertebrae)so I had to come to terms with having broken my back (it sounds so serious somehow) and yet I've kept much of my fitness by doing, but just doing less (as happened 8 years ago when I suffered a shoulder blade separation - I kept fit, but lost some of the urge-to-climb, until my body gave the right signals)

Good luck

OP Mark Kemball 05 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Thanks for the ideas, not so sure about the one - footed climbing or the swimming just yet - the ankle feels to delicate at the moment, but maybe when it starts to feel a little more on the road to recovery. As my lad goes to the wall 3 times a week, I think I'll start to feel stir crazy (or what ever the equivalent is) just watching him. HB - I had no choice, once I was lowered to the ground, I tried standing up and couldn't - the only sensible way off the beach was a helicopter ride, so straight into hospital.
 sea_lene 07 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Just read a line on Dave Macleods blog which you might want to bear in mind - Complete rest falls foul of one of the fundamental laws of tendon injuries: “tendons don’t like rest or change”.
Post edited at 15:24
 kingholmesy 08 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Personally I've always found swimming quite painful when I've had ankle injuries. Running and cycling will also be out obviously. It will therefore be quite difficult to do anything to maintain fitness, if by this you mean cardio fitness.

However, if what you really want to maintain is finger strength then this can very effectively be done using a fingerboard while your ankle is knackered. The obvious routines are max hangs or repeaters - I prefer the latter but try both. The advantage of both of these is that you don't need to use your injured foot at all, instead you can gently lower on to your good foot at the end of each set.

You can also train finger endurance with a fingerboard by staying on the board for longer periods, but with one foot taking some weight on a chair. I would advise against this initially as you need one foot on the chair, with the other hanging behind you ready to take your weight if your fingers fail. However it might be suitable once your ankle is improved, but not yet ready for routes or bouldering.

Fingerboarding is boring, but it is effective and you could actually return to climbing after six weeks with improved finger strength if you put the work in.

Another option, albeit much less useful from a climbing perspective, would be to get a month's membership for a gym and get one of the instructors to show you some upper body weights workouts.
 John Willson 08 Oct 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

A good opportunity for some proofreading, Mark! I think Des has been trying to contact you.
OP Mark Kemball 08 Oct 2014
In reply to John Willson:

I've been in contact with Des - awaiting the script!
OP Mark Kemball 08 Oct 2014
In reply to kingholmesy:

Thanks for the ideas.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...