UKC

Video: North York Moors Repeats And New Routes

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 Franco Cookson 09 Oct 2014


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXJl4n03hkI&feature=youtu.be


Nice little video from Mark Rankine, following some of the climbing he's done in the North Yorkshire Moors.

The video is all shot at The Smuggler's Terrace, near Whitby. With repeats of the particularly noteworthy feature of The Tormented Sole (H6/E7 6b) and The Basstard (E6 6c). Also appearing is the FA of Emersion (E4 5c) - Matt Ferrier leading the way.

It's a cool crag. One of many of the new areas developed recently.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

bit of ethics there…..three ropes…..why?…... and where is the other belayer? Lots of hanging pre-placed gear…..
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 09 Oct 2014
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

> bit of ethics there…..three ropes…..why?…..

Three ropes is unethical - 1st I have heard about it,


Chris
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 09 Oct 2014
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

Three ropes are wise in some tricky situations. As are two belayers.

 jon 09 Oct 2014
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

Ethics? You're not kidding - Ron Hills FFS...
1
 coreybennett 09 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Tis a good'n
In reply to Franco Cookson: Very goof stuff and a fine discovery. However, you must have the shittest video camera in the universe, if not the North York Moors. Naughty! On yer blanket!

 mark20 09 Oct 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

In the bottom right hand corner, click the 'cog' and change to 1080 HD
 deacondeacon 09 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Good stuff.
 Jon Stewart 09 Oct 2014
In reply to jon:

> Ethics? You're not kidding - Ron Hills FFS...

The trademark. There's no way Mark would be climbing this hard without the single pair of Ron Hills he's been wearing since 2007.
 Simon Caldwell 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I haven't ready the whole thread yet - has anyone been on to point out that all the routes are over-graded?
In reply to mark20: Much obliged boss!


 chalkyjim 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Typical.
why does the North York Moors always seem to get more abuse than anywhere else? I've never been myself but for the locals it looks ok. No harm in using 3 ropes if that's what the leader thinks is the best way to protect the route surely? over graded? Not climbed the routes so can't comment on that. Ron Hills? Retro.
 Simon Caldwell 10 Oct 2014
In reply to chalkyjim:

Do keep up, the NYM is widely known to be full of awful crags and delusional publicity-seeking climbers. And it always rains.
 The New NickB 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> I haven't ready the whole thread yet - has anyone been on to point out that all the routes are over-graded?

I don't think Andy Farnell has spotted the thread yet.
 Dave 88 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Bloody hell if the Moors are a soft touch then I really have got bad at climbing!
 chalkyjim 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Seems a bit harsh to me. Each to their own...
 Wft 10 Oct 2014
In reply to chalkyjim:

I can't tell if you've seen the sarcasm and responded with more sarcasm or have completely missed it in Simon's posts.

Also, Good video
 chalkyjim 10 Oct 2014
In reply to GuyVG:

Yeah you're right Franco has never got any abuse on here my mistake.
 The New NickB 10 Oct 2014
In reply to chalkyjim:

> Yeah you're right Franco has never got any abuse on here my mistake.

You're still not getting it.
 chalkyjim 10 Oct 2014
In reply to The New NickB:

I get it now. You should do stand up.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Do keep up, the NYM is widely known to be full of awful crags and delusional publicity-seeking climbers. And it always rains.

Delusional? You'd be referrring to Franco I guess? Wasn't he the guy who graded a route H9 7a last year (doing it solo because he didn't find any gear) then Dave Birkett comes along and confirms the grade at E8 7a, with an esoteric bit of kit that nearly no one else has. Sounds like he got it pretty much bang on - I think the delusions are elsewhere!
 The New NickB 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Which is I think Simon's point.
 Simon Caldwell 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Now you're being silly. How could Dave Birkett possibly know the right grade simply by climbing the route? A photo of it on the internet is all you really need to work out the true grade.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I'd just like to record my thanks to Simon and his team for their tireless efforts in checking all recent developments on the NYM's and ensuring that there is no grade drift.
 The Pylon King 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Nicely understated and refreshingly amateur vid and cool music (Neu?).

The routes look very good and the climber does them well.

cheers

PK
 wilkie14c 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
> (In reply to Frank the Husky)
>
> A photo of it on the internet is all you really need to work out the true grade.

In the old days I used to be able to grade a route simply by a description
 Andy Farnell 11 Oct 2014
In reply to The New NickB:

Oh, I'd spotted it alright, but as it wasn't about a new standard in world climbing on a world class crag by a well seasoned and highly respected all round trad/sport/boulderer with many top quality country and world wide repeats, I didn't bother replying. Until now...

Andy F
1
 footwork 11 Oct 2014
 TobyA 11 Oct 2014
In reply to footwork:

I couldn't quite see why he needed three ropes but nothing wrong at all with it if that's what you want. BUT FAR more important, did no one else notice the huge effing white bird watching him on the top right? What was it? A snowy owl waiting to pick his bones if he fluffed the crux?
 sea_lene 11 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Why is the video not available on mobiles, anyone know?
 Jon Stewart 11 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Amusing thread.

That'll learn you lot to go and develop high-standard new routes on undiscovered crags...

Now I'm starting to feel bad about making a sarcastic remark about Mark's trousers (that's not really the correct term, is it?) instead of congratulating everyone on some great new climbing. Thanks for posting the video!
 nbonnett 11 Oct 2014
In reply to jon:

I'm with you on this... Ron Hills , so 70's

Good effort lads keep it up regardless of your wardrobe attire .
In reply to Franco Cookson:

This thread's off it. The season is still not at an end yet. Is this the best year any area has ever seen? So much potential and so many people on the FA crusade! Smugglers Terrace

The Tormented Sole (E7 6b)
The Basstard (E6 6c)
Emersion (E4 5c)
 Simon Caldwell 13 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

and it's not just new crags and higher grades that are seeing new routes
Flaming Elbow (HS 4b)
In reply to Simon Caldwell: niceee

 Liam Brown 14 Oct 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I enjoyed this film.
Post edited at 08:19
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Even more routes in this new video from Dave Warburton: (first one looks a bit naff like!)

vimeo.com/110049606
In reply to Franco Cookson:
vimeo.com/110395582

David Warburton has put up another e6 at Danby.
 JLS 03 Nov 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Ha, missed the text at the start of the video. For a bit there, I thought you were telling me that wee crack was E6...
 Rocknast 03 Nov 2014
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Pretty neat recording! Not a bad little buttress!!

To put some matters to bed for some users:

1) It rains no more in the North Yorkshire Moors than it does throughout the rest of the British Isles;
2) As a trad climbing destination, the North Yorkshire moors have some fantastic crags to be explored, whilst simultaneously leaving the crowds behind. The key is to look correctly. If in doubt stick to Rockfax for highlights of the best coverage (see 'Northern England', 2008).

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