UKC

Hi Folks,

I'm looking for some advice on climbing the Matterhorn, I'm looking to do it with my girlfriend next summer.

Any advice on a reasonably priced guiding company?

Failing (or including) that any recommendations on a standalone guide and approximate cost for the climb?

In terms of training/fitness/expectations, we are both relatively experienced rock climbers, and have both been on expeditions to Himalaya/Tien Shan as well as various marathons etc. We are confident it is within our abilities. That said- any advice on this side would also be most welcome. We do recognise that we are not experienced enough to lead it on our own, however.

Many thanks in advance!

In reply to Chris Huntington:

Acclimatisation is the key I guess. Don't go from sea level to the Matterhorn but first take a week higher up in the mountains. Sleep at 3km height and hike higher.
The Hornli ridge itself isn't that hard and has fixed ropes on nearly every "hard" part.

In reply to Chris Huntington:
If you have done a bit of rock climbing and are reasonably fit then you should consider giving it a go on your own. You can always follow a guide if you are worried about the route finding, everyone else does. It has been tamed to such a point now the only real climbing is on the Moseley Slab.

In reply to caradoc:

Thanks Mate- I will take that into consideration.

I only lead to around HVD, second to VS, and have plenty of experience ascending fixed lines on vertical ice and mixed snow and rock.

We are both fit. I will consider it!

In reply to Chris Huntington:
Something u need to consider is the conditions as the mountain is generally only climbed when it is largely snow free. I went this summer with a guide but none ofthe guides were climbing it. With lots of snow its more like a grade 5 climb. If this is your goal u may be dissappointed Iif conditions make it unclimbable

In reply to Bren:

So your guide bashed on with you even though there was a lot of snow?

Was it a high avalanche risk that bombed the other guides off or because it became a much more technical climb for their clients?

In reply to Raymondo:

Agreed

In reply to Chris Huntington:


Just bear in mind that the guiding ratio for the Matterhorn is 1:1 so you'd have to have two guides. Just to answer your question about snow, ideal conditions for the Matterhorn are when it's completely dry. Any snow at all on the route increases the difficulty and in certain places the precarious nature of the climbing. Having said this, snow on the final slope to the summit, above the top of the fixed ropes will make it a little safer with regard to stonefall. When the whole mountain is completely plastered though - like most of this summer - it's really not really a great idea.

In reply to Chris Huntington:

If taking a guide conditions will need to be pretty perfect eg little or no snow, August is usually best, though early Sep can be good. Also the weather needs to be good or the guide may not set off with you. The guide will probably insist on you doing some preparatory climbs to suss you out.

I spent a year planning my trip but in the end conditions and weather were against us, bear this in mind. The guide will also be expensive.
The Hornli ridge is more a scramble than a climb and there is nothing too difficult. However, it's a long scramble where you need to stay focused. Fitness and acclimitization will be very useful aswell

In reply to Chris Huntington:

As Jon points out, the Matterhorn is very conditions dependent. I climbed the Schmid route a couple of weeks ago (admittedly in very good, and easy, condition), and the descent down the Hornli felt harder and more serious than the north face... Very different from last year, when I climbed the Hornli twice in near perfect conditions. A good gauge of conditions is where you anticipate donning your crampons - the higher, the better. Last year, it was at the Shoulder, just below the start of the upper fixed ropes. On the way down two weeks ago, it was probably at around 3700m, halfway down from the Solvay. The Zermatt guides were not guiding the Hornli this summer for good reason - it was in winter condition throughout. This makes it a very different proposition from dry conditions, much more serious, especially on the way down.

Those who suggest that 'it's easy', as in low on technicalities, are missing the point. Yes, there are fixed ropes at most of the steepest sections. But the hardest part isn't climbing these - it's maintaining concentration for the entire 1200m descent. It's a long way down! As with many things in the Alps, good mountaineering footwork is what counts, not rock climbing ability.

Good luck!